machining block and questions

[buickstage II]

Hey all,
as you all might know once i get this crack sorted out im going to need to get the machining done and i want to know how much you normaly bore it?
its at 4.007, machinist first said 4.040, and i remarked ummm there going to be custom pistons i dont want much out, well at least 4.020!

also what bearings do people run for street?, mains, rods and cam?
considering availablity and if its been line bored

im looking at using cometic gaskets for everything, there good?

also what oil pumps are people running, wanting to go wet and i still need front cover,water pump, etc.
so any new/ good parts let me know via email

any help greatly appreciated

 

[turbo2nr]

I just bought a stage II build-up book from E-bay. Best $4.50 I ever spent. There are plenty of books left. I highly recommend you invest a few pennies on education on the subject to save maybe thousands if you are unsure what you want/need. That's all I can say to help you. I'm a super stage newbie, but learning very quickly now.

 

[Mac in SD]

I just bought a stage II build-up book from E-bay. Best $4.50 I ever spent. There are plenty of books left. I highly recommend you invest a few pennies on education on the subject to save maybe thousands if you are unsure what you want/need. That's all I can say to help you. I'm a super stage newbie, but learning very quickly now.

That's a great little book, I agree with you. It's all Ruggles NA stuff, but VERY useful, and newer info than the Buick Power Source book (but you should have that one, too, IMO.) Get one!

 

[Ron Tarabori]

If your block is at 4.007 now I wouldn't go more than 4.015. That should be plenty to straighten the cylinders and you will save a lot of block for future rebuilds. As far as bearings for the rods you can use FM 7120 or Clevite 1398H. Mains FM 107 or Clevite 960H. Cam bearings are Clevite 1360. They are an individual bearing so you will need 4 of them. I'm a big dry sump fan but if you want to go wet I would go with a single stage belt driven pump. That way you can use a stage II front cover without having to shorten a stock cover. Also eliminates wear on the distributor gear as you aren't driving the oil pump with it.

 

[The Swede]

That's a great little book, I agree with you. It's all Ruggles NA stuff, but VERY useful, and newer info than the Buick Power Source book (but you should have that one, too, IMO.) Get one!

Hi!

Is this the book written by Dave Emanuel, ISBN 0-942099-00-1?

 

[turbo2nr]

yes, has all torque specs, dimentions, clearences for bearings, etc, etc.
Has all the part numbers and descriptions of most all Buick Motorsports stuff v6 related.
I'm sure it's not the only book out there, but a good one to have.

 

[The Swede]

OK, thanks, that's the one i have.

 

[Big Stu]

OK, thanks, that's the one i have.

How's your project going? Haven't heard from you guys in a while.

 

[The Swede]

How's your project going? Haven't heard from you guys in a while.

Slowly...... no money no honey...

 

[Big Stu]

Slowly...... no money no honey...

I know, not easy hunting down all this crap...

 

[Alky V6]

If your block is at 4.007 now I wouldn't go more than 4.015. That should be plenty to straighten the cylinders and you will save a lot of block for future rebuilds. As far as bearings for the rods you can use FM 7120 or Clevite 1398H. Mains FM 107 or Clevite 960H. Cam bearings are Clevite 1360. They are an individual bearing so you will need 4 of them. I'm a big dry sump fan but if you want to go wet I would go with a single stage belt driven pump. That way you can use a stage II front cover without having to shorten a stock cover. Also eliminates wear on the distributor gear as you aren't driving the oil pump with it.

I agree for the bore. The other side of the coin would be that the larger bore would unshroud the valves more.