Limited 2 Turbo project

Joined
Feb 16, 2010
ok, i recently met a guy who had an 84 cutlass with the gn turbo motor in it. he claimed it was once a gn that was rolled in a wreck and the body removed from the frame and the cutlass was put on it. so the entire drive train and frame is a gn. i traded a badly wrecked 93 mustang and 650.00 for the car. motor runs and has no knocks (and is Intercooled). the 200R4 trans is there and without anything other than eyeballin the rear end appears to be gn also. i own an 87 limited which i drive everyday with the stock 3.8 in it. and have decided to put the turbo v6, trans and rear end in my regal. i have no idea as to what year gn this motor came out of or as to the milage. the motor is intercooled so im assuming 85-87. but not sure as to that being accurate. the only problem i fore see is putting a gn dash cluster in the regal. not digital just the one that has added turbo boost gauge on bottom right. other than that the clusters look to be the same. so im wondering if this will be just a straight swap or will the dash wiring need to be replaced with that of a turbo regal. any help or pointers that anyone could give me for my up coming project would be greatly appreciated.
 
It's pretty much a straight swap. Just make sure that you remove the dash so you can get the wiring in easier.
 
Shouldnt be very difficult, just do a swap for swap. But...yes all the harnesses need to be swapped. Even the tail light harness needs o be swapped. The harness going to the back has the hot wire for the fuel pump. Taillight harness has teh fuel pump wiring as well. One thing to make sure also is to utilize your 3rd brake light as well. If you dont tie that into the harness going from the fuse block to the rear, your lights will be wacko. The third brake light completes the circuit.
 
thanks alot for the info guys. guess i need to find that dash wiring and tail light wiring now and i should have everything i need.
 
send me a PM. I should be able to help yu out with the harnesses and the other odds and ins your going to need.
 
Don't forget the fuel tank and internals. The tank and pump setup for your stock 3.8 wont work with the turbo motor.
 
Well if everything has been transplanted in the Cutlass then you should have just about everything you need. You'll need to tear the Cutlass apart to see what in it before you get extra parts.
 
yes it was transplanted into the Cutlass....found a small black box under the passenger seat with knobs and switches on it....labeled as follows....boost adjust knob......green light with "tc rate" under it.....small toggle switch labeled "ecm' on one side and "tc' on the other side......and a push button on/off button...has velcro on top but i can read "ANS PERFORMANCE" along the top of the velcro.......has about a 1/8 wire coming out of it about 2 ft long with a plug that sorta resembles an s-video cable but a lil different.......also there is another black box hanging under the drivers side of the dash with 1 big long plug attached to one side and a few smaller ones attached to other sides of it. has alot of small writing on one side embossed in the plastic but no colored writing or sticker.. the car is filthy and full of trash so i didnt get a good look at the box under dash but will later....any idea what it could be ? also there were 2 small computer chips in the glove box......perhaps the person or persons who did this swap knew what they were doing and this box would be a needed part for swap to a non turbo body ?
 
well got my surgery over with and trying to get healed up so i can begin this journey into my turbo swap. doctors have my arm in a sling and 12 staples in my elbow so not much i can do till i get cleared to go back to work. i did get car moved to my friends shop. he marked driveshaft and rolled car one full wheel turn and it seems to be 3:42 geared positive track rear end. and the frame and drive train from all tips ive gotten here and read about is definatly GN under this cutlass. its a disgrace in my eyes to have an olds body sitting on a GN frame and drive train.....

can anyone tell me anything about the ANS Performance box is i spoke of in previous post? is it worth hanging on too in this swap or should i forget about it and start looking at a scan master setup? just bored with all this time on my hands not being able to work on it. if anyone has any pdf documents, diagrams etc.. on GN's that i could read to gain some knowledge let me know i would appreciate them.

the fuelpump isnt working so i'm gonna order the Walbro pump and "hotwire" kit for it.
 
ok, the (2) 5/16 fuel lines off the fuel tank are feed lines and the 3/8 line is return correct ? have some fuel issues and i believe previous owner screwed this stuff all the h-E L-L ...trying to sort it out and cant find a diagram for the lines from tank......
 
3/8 feed
5/16 vent
1/4 return

90373d1262652332-rubber-hose-size-return-line-tank-fuel-lines-hanger.jpg
 
thanks. this was my original thought. but i had a leak (rotten hose) on the 3/8 so i replaced it and when i got it all back together i now have the vent spraying gas where the hose from tank turn into metal line right above the rear end. or so it looks like the vent. my arm still isnt 100% from surgery so still cant do much without help but maybe tomorrow i will try to get it straightened out. thanks again.

and also all these wires have been cut...i only have 3 wires off tank, hot, ground and 1 that i have no clue....no plugs at all...
 
ok i have all my fuel line leaks and so fourth fixed....now i cant get it to crank on its own....if i spray it with ether it will run as long as you keep spraying it. i know im getting fuel to the rail. the fuel pressure gauge on the rail stays close to 40 all the time. so i assume the injectors aren't pumping gas as they should.i pulled the computer to see what chip was in it. it says this on the bottom side of it :JL2732HS/160002 and then SINGAPORE 39 under that. and on the top is DELCO ACXA 0942 [googled it and its a stock chip]. the reason i pulled the computer is because i thiunking the injectors have been changed. they are blue on the top 1/3 or so of the injectors. i found 2 chips in the car when i bought it they are marked as follows: "8605GPP AM2732DC 1980 AMD" on top and just says "MALAYSIA' on the bottom. i assume its stock. the last chip is marked : APPLIED TECHNOLOGIES 17040 S. HWY 11 FAIR PLAY, SC on the top, and on the bottom it reads JT8(G)/J6/P LFI1D953 . I get nothing when i google the last 2 chips. i'm gonna try each chip i guess and see if it cranks with one of them....anyone got any ideas on where i should be looking if the injectors arent pumping fuel ? i'm new to the turbo motors and never been a motor guy before now either.
 
And finally..............it runs......played around today driving up and down the road. never did get any boost and didnt hear the turbo spool up. then i noticed the adjustable wastegate was broken where the adjustable arm connects to the turbo the round aluminum piece that the arm attaches too was broke off. so guess im looking for a good stock turbo now. but atleast ive got it running. transmission shifts great, which was something i was hoping would be ok. i appreciate the help ive been given here so far, and i'm gonna need more thats for sure lol. gonna start looking for a few parts i need now.
 
ok i have a few new questions....
i got the motor back up and running. during idle for the most part, motor runs "ok" but once you put it in gear and put a load on it, it cuts out bad. pops a little. very little pick up, the more throttle you give it the more it sounds as if it dying out. i do know the MAF sensor is bad because it won't idle right unless you disconnect the MAF. it runs a little better with it disconnected but still not much better than connected.
here are my questions for today...lol...
when i rev the motor, shouldnt the wastegate arm move at some point? open/close etc...because it doesnt move....the the wastegate selanoid has been removed and replaced with and older aftermarket boost controler that doesnt work. so i think that could be part of the problem along with the MAF sensor....am i correct ? i can hear the turbo spool up when the motor revs up, but i'm wondering if the wastegate not opening and closing could be partly whats wrong.
i have read somewhere that the MAF sensors bought at say, Advance, are ****. is this true or was it just one persons opinion? if so where can i get a good one? should i buy one from someone here?
i have my Powerlogger hooked up but with the way its running most gauges are moving wildly for the most part from the idling up and down on its own. i did notice the TPS stays about .19 to .21 pretty steady....does anyone have a screen shot of powerlogger at idle so i can get a gauge to go by...this is my first turbo motor and never been a big car guy so im still learning alot...

thanks for any answers.....
 
You more than likely have a few different issues with the car. Definately get yourself a known good stock MAF. If you need one, PM me, I might have a couple spares. Parts store ones are ok for a norml car but not for these cars. TPS should be set at .42. Where are your BLMs? They should be at 128 at idle but may be slightly different depending at what chip you have. As far as the wastegate, it works on compressed air from the compressor side of the turbo. Your really not going to see any change at idle, it's only going to open up under load.
 
Looks to me like you have stock injectors. And you are good on your TPS now. Did you see the IAC counts moving at all? The BLM's low which may be because of the bad MAF so we'll need to get that replaced and see how she reacts. Then we'll have to make sure those actually are stock injectors and get you a good chip. It's a slow process but give it some time and she'll get dialed in. It was nice talking with you on the phone and dont hesitate to give me a call anytime!!! Good luck Ronnie! -----Jeremy
 
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