Just started driving my car around with the new PL, SM2.2 update, and LC-1 setup. The sensor heats up fine (shows 7.3:1 while heating up, then starts reading correctly), but after a certain amount of driving around, it could be 10 minutes or 45 minutes, all of a sudden it starts displaying a range of 7.3-7.6:1 on the wideband. If I turn the car off, then let the sensor warm up and crank again it will start reading correctly. But then it's another matter of time until it starts messing up again. The power source is directly to the IGN fuse panel, all grounds wires were soldered together and grounded in the same place as my Alky kit and all of my Speedhut gauges. All wires were soldered and shrink wrapped. The second output wire is just kinda hanging there but I dont think that would affect it. I'm thinking of moving the ground to another place that is a dedicated ground for all the LC-1 wires. Any other ideas? The sensor is about 12-15" down from the turbo.
LC-1 Problems with SM2.2 and Powerlogger
- Thread starter cuda6pak
- Start date
Which connection? The output to the powerlogger i/o block?
I believe the default setting on the LC-1 is to show rich when an error occurs . Check for errors on the sensor/controller.
BTW. If you are running the TT 6.0/6.1 chip the best thing to do is set the default to show 2.47V (14.7 to 1 AFR) on error. That way it will add fuel on error rather than subtract it.
BTW. If you are running the TT 6.0/6.1 chip the best thing to do is set the default to show 2.47V (14.7 to 1 AFR) on error. That way it will add fuel on error rather than subtract it.
What errors should I be looking for? All connections are tight and the controller/sensor are all brand new.
edit: Guess I should have looked at this before posting this thread - http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf
Time to see what error it's giving me.
the block that you connect your inputs to, the white cable connects from the block to the powerlogger.. one of the inputs on the block is for the wideband.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
You can pull the error code but it sounds like the sensor is going bad. May want to move it downstream a little more.
RL
RL
toomanymodz
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2009
The little LED will blink the error code. I had a similar issue with mine last year. The sensor was overheating and eventually went bad. I replaced it and made a heat sink to keep it from getting so hot. No problems since then.
Well I checked the LED and it was giving me an error code 8 which is either a bad sensor or it is overheating. Being that that the sensor was brand new I went ahead and made a copper heat sink for it. Took it for a spin and it was still giving me issues. After messing around with it some more I noticed what was giving me the problem. Apparently whenever I open my electric cutout it screws up the sensor and gives me the error code 8. Not sure what to make of that. It will do it almost every time. Restarting the car and powering off the sensor brings it back to normal. I can also start the car up with the cutout open and the sensor won't crap out. Check out the video below, right at 4 seconds is when I open the cutout. As long as I don't open the cutout the sensor never messes up. But since the e-cutout is fun as hell I was constantly opening/closing it and finally put two and two together.
GN cutout LC1 - YouTube
GN cutout LC1 - YouTube
toomanymodz
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2009
How close is your sensor to the open dump? You may have to move it further upstream.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Where is the cut out getting power???
The sensor is about 15" down from the turbo, so not even close to the cutout. I used to run an LC-1 on my old Turbo Cobra right at the end of the open downpipe and never had an issue. And with this car I can start it up with the cutout open with no issue.
Cutout is getting power from IGN1 I believe, LC-1 is on IGN3, they are not powered from the same source.
