Knock Sensor Installation

[MichBC3]

I am experiencing frequent false knock (even at idle) on my Casper's gauge, so plan to replace the knock sensor with a new one.

How tight should the knock sensor be in the block? Is there a special procedure?

Best, Bob

 

[TurboDave]

I am experiencing frequent false knock (even at idle) on my Casper's gauge, so plan to replace the knock sensor with a new one.

How tight should the knock sensor be in the block? Is there a special procedure?

Best, Bob

14 ft/lbs, and clean threads.

 

[MichBC3]

Thanks TurboDave. Got it. That means cleaning off any thread lubricant that may come on it. Mine has some orange stuff on it. Not sure if that was put on by the factory or not because I'm the third owner of my car.

With this gauge, with the key "on", and the engine not even running (!), I've sometimes seen the knock counts advance up from the lowest to maximum, then back down to the first LED again, then count back up again... Weird. I assume that this must be a bad sensor.

 

[TurboDave]

Thanks TurboDave. Got it. That means cleaning off any thread lubricant that may come on it. Mine has some orange stuff on it. Not sure if that was put on by the factory or not because I'm the third owner of my car.

With this gauge, with the key "on", and the engine not even running (!), I've sometimes seen the knock counts advance up from the lowest to maximum, then back down to the first LED again, then count back up again... Weird. I assume that this must be a bad sensor.

That orange stuff was applied by the factory. That you can leave in place. Just don't add any over the counter "thread tape"

 

[notacarlo]

How are the motor mounts?

Is the down pipe hitting the frame?

It's not always false knock unless you can prove otherwise.


Anything added to the threads of a KS will deaden its sensitivity.

If it's too tight, it can pick up the starter gear contacting the flywheel on start up.

 

[MichBC3]

Motor mounts are fine. The 3" downpipe occasionally needs adjustment to prevent hitting the body. Under acceleration the pipe pulls away from the body though.

But note that I wrote "key on, engine not running". I should have also added not even cranking.... I don't think that this gauge should be indicating anything when there are no vibrations of any kind present. When it happens (which is not every single time), that bottom to top of the scale cycling continues even after the fuel pump primes the system.