Knock Question
- Thread starter rmorrell
- Start date
If your fuel pressure rises,from 42,pound for pound with boost your fuel delivery is good. You won't know this until you observe the gauge at WOT.
I am still having the same issues as last summer. The progress that I have made up to now has included replacing the intake plenum gasket and making sure it is tightly bolted down, I have new intake hoses/ clamps, I just tested the MAF with another original from a t type owner that I know and the numbers read the same. BLM at 142 and IAC 00 at idle. So I have now counted out my MAF. I feel like I ma starting to run out of ideas here. Could the IAC sensor be bad?
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
IAC could be bad, but with it reading 00, I'd bet the engine is getting it's idle air from either a vac leak, or the throttle body is open too far.
What's the TPS reading at idle?
What's the TPS reading at idle?
There are many sources of vacuum leaks on our cars. I bought a smoke machine which pumps smoke into the vacuum lines. Found it on Craigs List. They are also on ebay. Where the smoke comes out is the leak location, or at least one of the leaks. A common leak is at the egr valve. I even had a leak at the throttle body shaft seals (I didn't even know such a part existed until I saw the smoke). You could google vacuum leak detector for ideas on how to make your own tester. Or go to your favorite mechanic and have him smoke it for you. But be prepared to pay a little money.
No it was wrench tight. 14 ft/lbs is not that much, I don't know if that is the issue but possible.
As far as the vacuum leak situation goes, I just decided today to swap out my pcv valve from rjc to the stock one that was on it prior to the rjc. I did notice that the IAC number was in the upper 30's vs. the 00. BLM was the same value after the swap. I'm not sure if anyone will find anything from this... Still looking for any leaks that would spike the BLM value though. I might have to get a machine as mentioned to figure this out.
twodafloor
Twodafloor
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2007
Do you still have an EGR, hooked up?
twodafloor
Twodafloor
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2007
I know back in the 80's a bad EGR was often the culprit on a pinging engine.
BRAD_PADGETT
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
Yes- Scanmaster only shows the ECM response to knock signals. Brad
I am thinking it would take quite a bit of knock to be able to physically hear it? Is that a safe assumption? I had knock and only way I could tell was scanmaster.
I thought you mentioned you did not torque down the knock sensor? if so, I would remove it and start over with installation with torque.
Joel
I thought you mentioned you did not torque down the knock sensor? if so, I would remove it and start over with installation with torque.
Joel
Leave the stock pcv on and reset the ECM, drive it and see what it does, that RJC valve sent my BLM's haywire...
Like I said it was plenty tight when I installed it but you could be on the right track. Is it possible to reach the knock sensor with removal of the coil back and bracket? I really don't want to pull the engine to check the knock sensor...
Really? That is interesting. I will look into this more. I know that it affected the IAC. It didn't seem to affect the BLMs but I will have to leave it in for a while and see if any thing changes as I drive it. The car is at my parents house so I usually only work on it on the weekends.
phil_jordan
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2012
Removal of the engine is not necessary when replacing the knock sensor. Just remove the coil module and bracket. I used a long extension(I think 10") to do this. I'm sure the 10" was over kill but i didnt want to make a trip back to the parts store. Good luck
phil_jordan
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2012
this might be a STUPID question, so no offense, but you say when coming out of a turn..are you sure it isn't your keys just rattling? Just a thought. Again, good luck.
