Knock gauge wiring

[JST A 6]

Did a search on this last night and could not turn up an answer to my specific question. The instructions for the Casper's knock gauge I have say that the switched power supply that goes to terminal "B" on the gauge has to be off during cranking. I was just wondering what would be a good supply to tap into that would meet this requirement? TIA

 

[WS6]

From Casper's website...HTH

NOTE: All switched positive feeds in the car’s wiring are pink with a black stripe. You can generally use any of these
wires to feed TERMINAL B of the gage (positive feed), but BE SURE it is a positive feed that turns OFF during
cranking of the engine. Also, most grounds in the car are black with a white stripe.

 

[gusszgs]

I used the blk/pink behind the radio.

 

[38turbo]

if i remember right towards the top middle of fuse pannel theres an unused outlet that has no voltage during cranking believe thats what i hooked up to been a while though? and that gauge is way to sensitive but a good warning i guess

 

[ChrisF]

I plugged mine right into the fuse box terminal marked "ign" with a spade lug. I am not sure if it is off during cranking....is this a problem?

Also - make sure when you tap into the ECM to make a real good connection. I used a greased inline tap (blue thingy) and it was fine for 2 seasons then started tossing code 43. Took it apart and soldered it together, no problems since.

 

[JST A 6]

I plugged mine right into the fuse box terminal marked "ign" with a spade lug. I am not sure if it is off during cranking....is this a problem?

Also - make sure when you tap into the ECM to make a real good connection. I used a greased inline tap (blue thingy) and it was fine for 2 seasons then started tossing code 43. Took it apart and soldered it together, no problems since.

I'm not sure if they want you to do it that way just to avoid registering knock during cranking, or if the electronics in the gauge are so sensitive that it could somehow get messed up during cranking (I've heard cell phones shouldn't be plugged into the cigarette lighter during cranking for that reason). With all the knock gauge problems I read about while doing that search the night before last, I'd just rather wire this thing up the way they say to do it so when it comes time to make a warranty claim it can't (or shouldn't) be refused. I was planning to solder the ECM connection and wrap it with heat shrink tubing.

 

["Turbo-T"]

I ran mine off the radio circuit as it's off during crank but yet the silly thing still registers knock.

 

[ChrisF]

Mine does too. Doesn't seem to bother it, it resets in a second. I thought it was "hearing" the starter motor.