knock at wot help plz.

zacherymanuel

New Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
ok i have a 1986 gn with these mods. 42.5 injectors,rjc power plate,ported and polished heads,built tranny 2600 stall,373 gears 8.5 mm wires,upgraded piping,upgraded ignition,turbo tweet chip,ls1 mass air flow translater, k&n air filter and billet proof head gaskets. when its cold it seems to do fine but as soon as it warms up it goes into knock. need help plz been fighting it for a long time. anyone have any suggestions?
 
when its cold it seems to do fine but as soon as it warms up it goes into knock. need help plz been fighting it for a long time. anyone have any suggestions?

Yeah, stop beating on it cold. Either way, we need a lot more info to help. How much timing are you running with what type of gas? Alky or no? How much boost with what turbo? Do you have a scanmaster to get this info from? There are other questions but start there.
 
idk what the timing is how do u find out? im running 93 octane and no alky. its on 10lbs and i do have a scanmaster.
 
idk what the timing is how do u find out? im running 93 octane and no alky. its on 10lbs and i do have a scanmaster.
your timing and target boost should be written on chip if its a turbo tweak. Is it burned for the combo you have now?
 
well you could always throw some 100 octane in there and see if it goes away.
The best thing to do is go see what the timing is set at and verify the boost too but at 10 pounds something is off.... As far a fuel pump what do you have? It could be failing..... is it hot wired? Is the knock sensor too tight?
 
the fuel pump is hot wiried. you can hear like the valves clattering at wot so i dont run it hard wanna get the knock worked out or boom there goes head gasket. i also added octane booster still went into knock.
 
Don't trust the o2 to see if fuel psi is rising correctly, verify fuel psi with a gauge and go from there
 
" its on 10lbs and i do have a scanmaster"

POST the Scanmaster readings.
If this is happening at 10#, you have some SERIOUS issues you'd best ID asap.
3.73 gears?? Valves rattling, rpms exceeding the valve springs ability to control them?? Keep it up, and you too can become a member in good standing, in the DOTCC.......
My bet: Fuel psi is in the dumper.
Time for some popcorn!:D
 
Chuck Leeper said:
" its on 10lbs and i do have a scanmaster"

POST the Scanmaster readings.
If this is happening at 10#, you have some SERIOUS issues you'd best ID asap.
3.73 gears?? Valves rattling, rpms exceeding the valve springs ability to control them?? Keep it up, and you too can become a member in good standing, in the DOTCC.......
My bet: Fuel psi is in the dumper.
Time for some popcorn!:D

X2
But please tell me you aren't using the boost gauge on the dash and an actual gauge
 
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/new-to-the-turbo-buick.373865/#post-2988402
well here is your old post with the same problem and it says that you are running 35psi of fuel and a "twin turbo supra" fuel pump, obviously you arent getting enough fuel pressure. If your running 10 lbs like you say your getting at most 45 psi which is not gunna cut it
o_O :rolleyes: ditch that fuel pump and buy a walbro unit and turn the psi to 43 line off.... then look at what the timing is on the chip and adjust accordingly
 
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/new-to-the-turbo-buick.373865/#post-2988402
well here is your old post with the same problem and it says that you are running 35psi of fuel and a "twin turbo supra" fuel pump, obviously you arent getting enough fuel pressure. If your running 10 lbs like you say your getting at most 45 psi which is not gunna cut it
o_O :rolleyes: ditch that fuel pump and buy a walbro unit and turn the psi to 43 line off.... then look at what the timing is on the chip and adjust accordingly

It may not be the pump. That pump is a good quality pump, that will easily support the mods he has..There are other items to check B4 the pump is trashed.
1. Volts to the pump, and the integrity of the wiring /connections in the tank.
2. Connector hose from pump to hanger pipe. [FAMOUS for rotting w/ wrong hose, and/or ethanol gas.]
3. Fuel filter.
4. Accuracy of the FP gauge. [I've tested MANY of the little silver dollar on the rail gauges. MOST are not accurate..For very long, anyway]
5. Hoses at the ft of the frame.
6. Tank vent.

My suggestion: Start w/ the easiest to test, and proceed from there.
 
Yes,you need your base fuel pressure set to 43lbs. Then you need to verify fuel pressure rise. After this info is gathered we can go to next step.
 
ok i have a 1986 gn with these mods. 42.5 injectors,rjc power plate,ported and polished heads,built tranny 2600 stall,373 gears 8.5 mm wires,upgraded piping,upgraded ignition,turbo tweet chip,ls1 mass air flow translater, k&n air filter and billet proof head gaskets. when its cold it seems to do fine but as soon as it warms up it goes into knock. need help plz been fighting it for a long time. anyone have any suggestions?
when the car warms up how warm does it get?

For now i would also go to known good quality gas station for your 93 as it has happened in my area that some of the cheapo stations were selling 87 in the 93 pumps.

ALSO
idk what the timing is how do u find out? im running 93 octane and no alky. its on 10lbs and i do have a scanmaster.
Follow the chips programming procedure and go into each of the four programmable areas and write down what they are set to. Just to make sure some one didn't add timing instead of fuel.
 
Yesterday we had to drop my buddys tank he couldn't hold more than 20# of fuel pressure both pumps were working and we changed the fuel filter..once we dropped the tank we saw the hose from pump to hanger was completely torn apart and extremely soft "mind you we just changed the fuel pump's with new hoses less than a month ago, very strange not sure what the hell is eating up the hoses so bad. Anyway's we changed the lines checked the strainer's and wallah back up to 43#'s at the line steady..
 
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