K&N filters?

be_regal

1982 Regal 4.1
Joined
Sep 20, 2001
Does anyone know if a K&N filter is worth putting on a non-turbo 4.1 and if so what the effects will be (power and gas milage)? Can someone give me some help on this before I go out and get one?
 
what you think of your 4.1 regal? Is it slow off the line if you floor it like the car wont take off real fast till u get to 15?do u have aol im we can chat if you do i have a 4.1 have had it for 2 years.
 
Originally posted by be_regal
Does anyone know if a K&N filter is worth putting on a non-turbo 4.1 and if so what the effects will be (power and gas milage)? Can someone give me some help on this before I go out and get one?

The K&N filter does flow better that stock(paper) and when properly maintained will last a long time.
This is one of the first steps on improving performance.
I have a K&N like most members here.
I have heard that a company called AMS makes a Filter that out preforms K&N, but I have never used them.
 
Ttype83 I see that you have a msd coil did you notice much improvement when you put that on. I want to get about 200 out of this thing but really don't have a clue where to start. I dont want to even pretend to know a lot about engines but I really want to learn. There is nothing better than self achievement in my book, I like to do the work all myself or with some frineds....
 
I have found that the Air Cleaner assembly is the most restirctive part of the intake system. The THERMAC snorkle is so tiny. I noticed a huge difference replacing my entire AC assembly with a K&N filter. But without the THERMAC, the car will bog when air temperatures are below 40°F.

You can replace the entire AC assembly with a K&N assembly or just the filter element. I think they are a good deal even if you just replace the filter element sice they last so long, but if you really want performace, you need to get rid of the THERMAC. I got rid of the THERMAC on my '82 GN because it is only driven in the summer, but on my '83 T Type I kept it and just changed the filter.
 
I only used the MSD coil because mine died on me and this is my daily driver. It's all the parts store had at the time and it cost me $86 plus tax. Freddie's Buick has a thread about HEI upgrades and he found a heavy duty coil through summit for half of what I paid. I just could not wait a week or 2 to get it. I'm to old for hitchhiking :D
 
You know i was thinking of replacing the entire assembly, but if i do what do i do about hose that goes from my valve cover on the pax side, the air pump hose, and the valcume line that connects in the front? I really want the crome 14 inch housing and filter they have.
 
What I have been trying to find is a newer air assembly (like on my truck) with a bigger front snorkle so that I can mod all the stuff back on. This way you can keep the piece on the carb.
For now I have added a dyer duct hose to the front of the snorkle to pull in cooler air.
 
That's funny I thought of doing something like that just havent done it yet! I guess I'll give it a shot. Did you notice any difference?
 
Originally posted by be_regal
You know i was thinking of replacing the entire assembly, but if i do what do i do about hose that goes from my valve cover on the pax side, the air pump hose, and the valcume line that connects in the front? I really want the crome 14 inch housing and filter they have.

The Air Pump hose doesn't do anything. There are times when the Air Pump output isn't needed, but since the pump doesn't turn off, it has to go somewhere. So it dumps into the AC assembly.

The vacuum lines are connected to an in-line thermal switch which controls the opening and closing of the damper door on the snorkle. This is how the incoming air temperature is controlled. Open door sucks in cold air. Closed sucks in hot air from the narrow hose connected to the exhaust manifold (many times, this hose is broken or gone). This is the THERMAC system. Just plug the vacuum port on the carb if you remove it.

The hose to the valve cover is the breather for the PCV system. Vacuum sucks on the PCV valve and pulls air (and blow-by fumes) out of the crankcase. The breather lets clean, fresh air into the crankcase. The little breather filter inside the AC assembly dosn't have to be inside. K&N sell little breather filter assemblys to replace this.
 
Yes I did notice a diff. When all was working good I was able to crank the boost up to 15 psi with no knock, without I started to hear knock at 14 psi. So it did help with the cooler air
 
Originally posted by Ttype83
For now I have added a dyer duct hose to the front of the snorkle to pull in cooler air.


Do you still have the entire THERMAC system in working order? If so, the cold air will just open the thermal swtich, which will close the damper door and then suck in hot air off the exhaust manifold.

The THERMAC is either working 100% or not at all. There no in between. If the snorkle to manifold hose is disconnected, the THERMAC isn't doing it's job at all.

If it not being used as desgined, get rid of it entirely. I removed the entire air box and repalce it with a huge K&N cone. There's no reason to be sucking through that tiny snorkel if it's not controlling the incoming air temperture (115°F).
 
Rich, Yes all is in working order. all I did was add the duct to the front.
Now that you bring it up, since the temp has droped here it seems as if the termac is always on. Max temp now is 72 during the day.
I installed the duct this summer when it was hot. So if I get what you are saying, when the duct pulls in cooler air the termac is triggered and I end up with more hot air. Bummer
 
. Closed sucks in hot air from the narrow hose connected to the exhaust manifold (many times, this hose is broken or gone). This is the THERMAC system. Just plug the vacuum port on the carb if you remove it.

If the hose on the exhaust manitfold is missing could it cause the carb to bog off the line??? Because i think mine is missing if you are looking at the hood from th front of the car is it to the left of the carb? ANd what kind of pipe is that called, i know what the old one looked like it looked sorta like a washer/dryer hose it was shiny almost like tin foilish.
 
Originally posted by Eighty2Regal
. If the hose on the exhaust manitfold is missing could it cause the carb to bog off the line??? Because i think mine is missing if you are looking at the hood from th front of the car is it to the left of the carb? ANd what kind of pipe is that called, i know what the old one looked like it looked sorta like a washer/dryer hose it was shiny almost like tin foilish.

Originally posted by b4black
But without the THERMAC, the car will bog when air temperatures are below 40°F.

Most auto parts stores carry the THERMAC hoses. They probably call them heat stove tubes, or flexible ducts.
 
. Closed sucks in hot air from the narrow hose connected to the exhaust manifold (many times, this hose is broken or gone). This is the THERMAC system. Just plug the vacuum port on the carb if you remove it.

If the hose on the exhaust manitfold is missing could it cause the carb to bog off the line??? Because i think mine is missing if you are looking at the hood from th front of the car is it to the left of the carb? ANd what kind of pipe is that called, i know what the old one looked like it looked sorta like a washer/dryer hose it was shiny almost like tin foilish.
 
will flipping my aircleaner upside down screw up anything like burn my valves i heard?
 
on the air cleaner assembly i dont have the exhaust manifold thing and then the other pipe that is on that side is not hooked up either. Would that be the 2 pipes you were talking about???
 
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