Ok here’s where I’m at on this.
What I did
-full spring cleaning with AC Delco plugs, wires, gapped at .030
-fuel rail oil filled fuel pressure gauge.
-fixed drivers side exhaust manifold leak (I had to put a gasket because it was re welded so many times that I don’t feel it would seal without one. It’s Only temporary, next time it rips I’m getting new ones).
-Walbro pump& hot wire
-removed all the autometer gauges and put back the idiot oil light sensor and stock coolant sensor. (I know that this sounds like a stupid thing to do but the installation job was awful and kept loosing connection to the sending sensors. Who ever installed these used audio speaker wire running through the engine to the sensors. And there was a short in the way they were wired under the dash. It had to go. They are autometer gauges. So I figured I’d sell them on Craigslist and go with some nice defi Digital gauges). I did a mechanical oil pressure test with a tester and the warm oil pressure is great. So for now it’s like that.
-new radiator hoses
-there wasn’t a thermostat. I installed a 160f with a new o ring.
-full coolant flush.
-used eBay full gauge cluster. Mine was broken (that ribbon circuit board was skuffed) and I hated that 165 mph aftermarket overlay that was all faded. So I went back to the ole 85mph speedometer it looks cooler. I figured I’d keep the original one for parts or bulbs.
-seafoam treatment via the brake vacuum hose. Car runs much better.
-changed every single vacuum line. For the time being I bypass the cruse control and charcoal canister.
Here are my scanmaster results. I know I have some tps and IAC adjustments to make. But I know that one of my stock injectors are stuck open and leaking because all the signs are there. Fuel rail looses pressure very quickly less then 5 minuets. Fuel pump and regulator are new. And no external gas leak, cranks for 10 seconds minimum before it starts up, sweet gas smell (not coolant smell). It’s time to loose those stock injectors anyway. So, I ordered some 60lb injectors with a chip from Eric at tt I’m just waiting on them. (I have no idea what chip I have at the moment. It’s not stock and it’s too distorted to read)
I also have a charging issues that I would value y’all opinion on. I’m showing very low voltage. And it’s even lower then what’s in the videos when the headlights are on. It was like 10.3v. The battery is brand new. The dash light comes on and goes out once the car is started like it’s supposed to. Ok I broke a rule and did a very quick test that is very bad for the alternator but I assume that it’s going anyway. I removed the negative battery terminal while it was running and it kept running. So idk what to do about that yet. I never like to replace parts unless I know they are definitely shot. Another thing I noticed was as it idles the light look normal/possibly dim and when I rev the engine they get a tad brighter but nothing crazy.
But I took it for a ride between the 2 scanmaster readings that I posted. And it ran and drove great even with only 11.9v showing on the scanmaster. (Btw I definitely have a charging issue because I get the same with a meter at the battery terminals).
Sorry for the long story. It’s been a while so I had to update with everything I did.
Warmed up before the test ride
After a few boosts on stock turbo. Never any knock.
