Junkyard springs/shocks for auto-x T-Type...

[J Banning]

Some friends of mine and I are building a car to compete in the $2005 Grassroots Motorsports Challenge. This needs to be done on a VERY low budget.

Since part of the event is an autocross, we need the car to handle (and brake, but that'll wait till some other time).

We are looking to run 16x8" GTA (or IROC) wheels, but need to figure out the rest of the suspension setup. What parts can we find cheap, perhaps on a wrecked late model car (i.e.: junkyard) that'll work with or without modifications.

Stuff like:
- front and rear springs.
- front and rear shocks.


Any advice, including part numbers, years of vehicles found on, sizes, etc. would be MUCH appreciated!!

Thanks,
-Banning.

 

[RBE17]

Check out the 3rd gen f-body front sway bars. I found a hollow 32mm for $10. You could also do the 12" brake upgrade w/ the b-body spindles. That might not fit the budget because then you're getting into tubular upper control arms. If you decide to go the 12" brake route, let me know because I have a set of spindles and calipers I pulled from the local yard. I can bring them to Kirbans next weekend.

Later,


Steve.

 

[Ormand]

What kind of car are you using? The PURCHASE price of any kind of turbo Buick will put you past the $2005 dollar limit. The GTA wheels, unless you get a fantastic deal, will eat up about half that amount, before tires. These rules seem to favor old mustangs or camaros, which are cheap to buy, and to modify.

 

[turbofish38]

Shock Absorbers will interchange with:
Fronts-82 to 2004 2WD S-10
Rears-77 to 1996 Full size GM B,C,D bodies
Springs can be crossbred from these models:
Fronts- S-10, 3rd gen F-body
Rears-3rd & 4th gen F-body

Look for shocks from S-10's with the ZQ8 16"wheel package or 99-04 Extreme and 94-96 Impala SS.
Springs from non G-bodies are not only stiffer but taller so you will have to do some trimming to bring it down in height. On the rear springs make sure you use the upper spring pocket that is the big rubber insulator to properly seat the spring, usually 88 and newer have the thicker improved insulator that is better than the early skinny one.

BTW I scored some 16X8 snowflakes from an 87 WS6 Formula at a $29.95 all you can carry sale at U-Pull-it for my $2005 Challenger.

 

[turbofish38]

Another thought just crossed my mind. 16X8" wheels from a 99-04 S-10/Blazer Extreme will work and have the correct back space too. Maybe some rice-boy/lowrider types in your area might have some take offs they want to unload when they upgraded to 18-24" wheels.

 

[J Banning]

Originally posted by Ormand
What kind of car are you using? The PURCHASE price of any kind of turbo Buick will put you past the $2005 dollar limit. The GTA wheels, unless you get a fantastic deal, will eat up about half that amount, before tires. These rules seem to favor old mustangs or camaros, which are cheap to buy, and to modify.

The car is a '84 hotair T-Type. We were able to get it for a VERY good price and have been able to part out some parts to further reduce the expenditure (all allowed by the rules).

I'm in the process of building a web page with all kinds of info on the project and all that are involved.

Regardless, this project IS going to be tough... mainly finding the parts we need for the price we need (i.e.: very cheap), without going over our $2005 budget (we can get an additional $1002 by selling parts off of the car).

Thanks for all the info. Keep it coming!!

 

[BlackBuick84]

That sounds like an interesting challenge, and its nice to see someone using a hot air for something. Thats some good info on cheap suspension parts too. BTW, i'm parting out my IROC, if you could use some parts off it let me know.

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by turbofish38
Springs from non G-bodies are not only stiffer but taller so you will have to do some trimming to bring it down in height...

Couldn't he then go with a taller lower balljoint to improve the front suspension geometry?

That would be a pretty cheap deal and could in theory, get rid of a lot of understeer.

 

[J Banning]

Originally posted by BlackBuick84
That sounds like an interesting challenge, and its nice to see someone using a hot air for something. Thats some good info on cheap suspension parts too. BTW, i'm parting out my IROC, if you could use some parts off it let me know.

Dan,
We very might be able to take some parts off your hands (wheels, springs, sway bars), we just need to get confirmation on the exact parts, part numbers, and year/make/model of vehicles they are found on.

Can you email me with what you have and associated prices?

Thanks,
-Banning.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Originally posted by UNGN
Couldn't he then go with a taller lower balljoint to improve the front suspension geometry?

That would be a pretty cheap deal and could in theory, get rid of a lot of understeer.

The only taller Lower joints I have been able to find are the Howe joints with the interchangeable posts... at $85 EACH. I haven't been able to find an OEM joint that fits the stock hole and is taller.

They can go to the 1983 1/2 ton pickup balljoints on the top. They may have to hammer on the UCAs to make the pocket big enough, but those things are only $15.99 new from AutoZone. Get those and set the static camber to -0.5 to -0.75 degrees and the camber curve goes negative.

 

[turbofish38]

Adjustable Ball Joints

Originally posted by UNGN
Couldn't he then go with a taller lower balljoint to improve the front suspension geometry?

That would be a pretty cheap deal and could in theory, get rid of a lot of understeer.

You can find adjustable ball joints here: http://www.colemanracing.com/
Click over to suspension and scroll through all of the mono-joints for the correct application.

 

[J Banning]

Originally posted by turbofish38
Another thought just crossed my mind. 16X8" wheels from a 99-04 S-10/Blazer Extreme will work and have the correct back space too. Maybe some rice-boy/lowrider types in your area might have some take offs they want to unload when they upgraded to 18-24" wheels.

Eric,
From the little online research I've done, it appears that these wheels have a 4.75" backspacing. Is that what you are running, or something different? What size tires have you found work well with that setup (front & back)?

Thanks,
-Banning.

 

[turbofish38]

My understanding is the S-10 16X8 has the same BS as the front GTAs. All 4 wheels are the same on a S-10, not half and half like the F-body. I haven't mounted my WS6 snowflakes yet but I think I'll be using 245/50 on the front with 255/45 on the back. Whatever is sticky and cheap. On the BS I dont think there will be a problem, on the front the first thing the wheel would hit is the steering arm part of the spindle and the larger diameter should clear with plenty of room. On the rear should be the same story, the first part to rub would be the tire. If any thing you might have to use a 1/4" spacer. Guys have been running the GTAs with no problems that I know off.

 

[Donald McMullin]

Longer Ball Joints:

These are @3/8" longer than stock ball joints, but will require different taper (reaming) in the spindle holes.

Upper #20032-1 @$20
Lower #20038-1 @$16

The lower will require a different press in bushing welded to lower A-arm.

These ball joints are longer than the standard ones used on 71-81 Camaro's and 71-85 Impala's.

Contact any dirt track supplier like "Stock Car Products".

Deep Enough
Donald McMullin