intermittent cutting out

Same exact prob as Ftc!... When the car warms up it starts to stumble at light throttle. The check engine light would flicker but no codes are showing up on the powerlogger/scanmaster. Only thing that I pinpointed at this point is that the crank sensor appears to have rubbed against the balance ring judging by obvious markings along the ring. Not sure if this is related but I'm waiting for a new crank shaft sensor before moving on.
 
still chasing

ok so heres an update changed out the following with no luck yet. theres not much left i can think of that could be causing this, im now looking at either the powerlogger or the prom or possibly the calpak being bad if these are even possible? pos battery cable is good, wiggled some sensor wires that were easy to get to no change in condition. forgot to check out the ground on the back of the pass side head but last time i looked it was fine recently. it now will intermittently cut out, pop, stutter everytime the car heats up, and also get random flashing check engine lights. any ideas?? im getting pissed
coilpack and module from nos4gn and hotwired the cci
cam sensor
crank sensor
ecm
plugs and wires
 
I chased a problem similar to yours for months and it turned out to be the injector harness. I grabbed the harness while it was running and it shut off the car. There is only one ground to all the injectors and when it shorts, you stop. I was broke at the time so I ran another ground wire and spliced it in and that fixed it for good.
 
More than likely your dealing with a ignition problem. I would replace the module. Always use AC/delco replacement parts. Specially sensors and such.
 
I just replaced the module and coilpack with a brand new delco module and nos4gns premium coilpack so it's definitely not those
 
DaySleeper said:
I chased a problem similar to yours for months and it turned out to be the injector harness. I grabbed the harness while it was running and it shut off the car. There is only one ground to all the injectors and when it shorts, you stop. I was broke at the time so I ran another ground wire and spliced it in and that fixed it for good.
Click to expand...

Will definitely check that out, I'm running a Racetronix harness plus hotwire will try the factory harness
 
The fact that the you are running the SD chip is telling me that you have the powerlogger connected to your ecm. Make sure that you have a good connection with the that piggy back board attached to the ecm. It took me a while to get all that coating off the ecm board so it was ready to accept the powerlogger board. Also check that where the usb port comes off the PL and it gets fished through the "vent" of the kick panel, that the vent is a little low, I wittled the vent slot bigger so the plastic wouldn't pull downward on the PL board.
If that doesn't help, I would take the SD chip out and put the maf sensor and non sd chip in the ecm just to make sure that is not related to the problem, if you have a chip for the 60lb injectors.
Post up a log from the powerlogger, maybe that will show us something....
Chuck
 
There is a log of it happening on post #6, can't really go back to a maf setup because the maf went bad and I don't have a spare. Did all of the above for the powerlogger hookups, I don't think that's the problem cause it works perfectly.
 
Post your problem over on the Turbo Tweak (SD)Forum and a log, Eric should be able to help you.

Chuck
 
Have sent a pm to Eric on the tt board, he suggested to wiggle the chip in the socket while the ECM was hot, tried that and didn't notice any check engine light flashing or anything out of the ordinary. Power logger cannot be removed due to the and chip and me not being able to go back to maf. But Eric said it's very unlikely the power logger would cause these symptoms. but he is sending me a new chip to try anyway.

I was only able to check one of the grounds on the pass side head, could only see one of them with a mirror from the top. Didn't feel loose(can't get a wrench on it from the top), just had some oil on it from leaking valve covers but I don't think that would cause a problem. This weekend I will try and get it on a lift to thouroughy check the cables and grounds from under the car, I only can work from the top in my complex.
 
Try tightening the crap out of the ignition module and bracket since that is its ground. I don't know when you replaced them but it would be suspicious if this problem began after you changed them. I JUST had cutting out problem and even though I think the fix was reinstalling the stock module...it could have been that I cleaned the contact points of the bracket and tightened it.
 
mine was doing same thing. found the orange ecm power wire was corroded near the battery. just a thought.
 
will definately check out the orange wire, i tried wiggling it around a little yesterday with no luck in making it stumble, there is a anti theft interupt installed on the orange wire, i bypassed it wiht no change as well.

the module was just changed on monday, and i put a pretty good amount of torque on the 3 bolts to the bracket. and the problem was there before the module and coil were changed too.

thanks for all the suggestions everyone, i will continue to troubleshoot this till its gone even though i am getting pretty fed up.
 
Have not tried unplugging the cam sensor with the new module installed. Will try that tonight.
 
Today I only had time to check out the ground bolted to the back of the pass head, cleaned and moved it to the intake manifold bolt. Warmed it up and took it for a spin, problem still there. But noticed the hotter it gets won't even idle after that, will sputter bad just sitting in park and eventually stall. The L8 starts going crazy spiking from 30s to 130s when the sputtering occurs and random check engine lights about a 1/2 second flash. Also unplugged the coolant temp sensor, didnt make a difference in the way the car ran crappy as usual. I think the ecu is getting solid ground and power cause on the sm it always shows high 13s to low 14s for voltage. Should be getting a new ad chip from Eric soon will try that out.

Rick - didn't unplug the cam sensor after changing the module. Will do that tomorrow after work.
 
Ok might have got a lead on this, found my tb shaft seal on the tps side to be leaking bad, to the point where I could hear it gonna fix that up and report back. Anyone know where to get shaft seals for a accufab tb besides accufab? Stock replacements don't fit
 
FTC said:
will definately check out the orange wire, i tried wiggling it around a little yesterday with no luck in making it stumble, there is a anti theft interupt installed on the orange wire, i bypassed it wiht no change as well.

the module was just changed on monday, and i put a pretty good amount of torque on the 3 bolts to the bracket. and the problem was there before the module and coil were changed too.

thanks for all the suggestions everyone, i will continue to troubleshoot this till its gone even though i am getting pretty fed up.
Click to expand...
I wired in a toggle switch to my orange ecm wire for a theft deterent. My car also was dying out on the highway, like yours. I removed the switch and that fixed it. I know you said you wired around it ......maybe you should look at it again?
 
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