Intake prep

Alum Oxide.. thats the same material on most of my sanding discs..sounds good though..I do have a small sand blaster..Let me look around a little and see if I can locate any locally. You think maybe I could just use a paint stripper and maybe a scotch brite pad and come up with similar results ?? Before getting a blast cabnite I would have to build a storage building just to hold it.. My garage is packed to the gills now. Had to get a folding engine hoist just to be able to put that thing in the garage...really missin that resto shop I use to work in...they had all this stuff...:smile:
 
Plastic Media balsting if pretty popular around here. it will not warp the sheet metal on a car like sand. Shipping should be reasonable too since it is so light. Will call up a company tormorrow who carries it. Wondering if I can use it in my harbor Freight sand:cool: blaster...
 
Harbor Freight has the aluminum oxide. The plastic beads will imbed in the metal Vince. See if you can, PM rmar (Ronnie Martin) here on the board. He can give you the best info on how to go about blasting the intake.
 
you know... I actually have a MT cross ram....

sits in my closet...

also have a edelbrock cross ram that sits 6 dueces on it ...

lots of intakes hiding sround in my shop

Dammit, I feel really bad about that water port Vince, lemme make it up to ya.


A.j.
 
A J As long as the thing works thats all I care... I am pretty sure that J B Weld should be able to hold on, it is suppose to be water proof and handle up to 600 degrees...I will tell you what... If it leaks after I install it I will let you know other wise don't worry about it.
I had that old Pontiac M/T ram on an old 59 389 cu in engine.. Bored and stroked to 468 cu inch...use to do wheel stands in a 55 chevy with it, and actually bent the frame on it with the torque. Even with all that piston to wall drag. Took it out and later put it in my 74 trans Am, but went to a single 4 on that. When some kid with a chevy 350 blew my doors off I really knew it was dogged.
 
Thanks for the link !! Just contacted Precision Finishing in Sellersville, PA www.precisionfinishinginc.com The specialise in all kinds of media and talked to one of the Sr. Salesman there Barry, He told me that Glass Beads would be the best, #208 and come in a 50 lb bag and if I wanted I could make a plastic sheet catch basin and re use them. $37.00 plus shipping..
Since they are local shipping charges should be kept low.. Checked out Harbor Freight and it was 7.99 for 2 lbs of aluminum oxide...I think I waste 2 lbs just turning on my sand blaster...I have a 40 lb blaster that I run at 90 PSI and in about 7 or 8 minutes I run out of sand... and I have a small nozzle on it. I don't have too much confidence of re capturing those glass beads when working outside.. If I use heavy plastic sheet I could see turning into a sail real quick. Will see what I can fab up though..
 
I'd seriously call Ronnie and ask his opinion. He does it for a living after all and doesn't sell the stuff. He's got lots of experience with blast media after all.
 
His mail box was full ...my e-mail was bounced back to me, but I called him up and left him a message. Have the JBweld sanded out now looks good, keeping my fingers crossed.:smile:
 
I should've sent you his number Vince. I've got the work number but he closes shop at 5 or a little earlier so you need to call him before then.
 
Sounds good : Will try tormorrow... Was looking at the Eastwood catalog. See that they have a cermanic paint that is good to 1300 Degrees that you paint on then polish then let the exhaust heat it the rest of the way. Looks good. Have to talk to Ronnie about doing my exhaust pipes once I fit them and weld them back together, they are covered with rust now.
 
Finished the repair to the water passage way. Looks good... Talked to Ronnie today he said to go with the glass beading..but to get all the grease off the manifold before blasting it or else you would blast it into the manifold paint would not stick. Am thinking about sending him my exhaust manifolds once I weld them up and even see if they fit my car. they are covered in rust and have cracks, mostly previous welds were poorly done. Would let him do the gloss black on them. Sent away for long shaft carbide burr removal bits to get at those "posts" inside the intake runners. Tool King has them on sale for 30.99 with shipping of 9.95 where as Eastwood wants 54 bucks plus shipping. Waiting for another foot of snow in PA its falling now..hurry up Spring time.:smile:
 

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Looks good Vince. Now you know why I said talk to Ronnie. He really does know what to use for blasting. See if you can find someone that can tank the intake to clean it up better. I've got a local I use that has a cold tank and it will strip just about anything of grease and carbon build up.
 
mat231v6 said:
if you read that book how to build buick engines they tell you to do that it can get you a increase of 15hp. dont kill me if its wrong; thats whats in the book.
Click to expand...

This does refer to blocking off heat crossover, not egr , correct?
 
Blocking off the EGR...seems that the small amount of exhaust gass will actually retard the flame front thus slowing knock. Have to try it both ways and see which way it runs better. Too much exhaust gas in there would be no good...a little might actually help... I do allready have all my exhaust crossovers blocked except one. I do live in PA and expecting 25 inches of snow tormorrow....my poor car sitting outside...I might not be able to see it...;)
 
Yes.......Might have to pull out my Ace in the hole here...I only have a few spots with grease it them where a tooth brush will not fit...My new trick...Either...Car starting either... that stuff will disolve grease like a hot knife going through butter....Watch Out....Warning....warning....keep away from sparks, flames...do it outside....don't deside to light a butt up either..Worked for me in the past... Waiting for 3 feet of snow now:eek:
 
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