Intake prep

Mr. Upholsterer

Smoking the Buick
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Couldn't find my old thread so I thought I would start a New one.. A. J. Got the turbo manifold today, Thanks...must of got held up in a few snow storms.. Heres a few of my questions..The front and the rear exhaust heater ports are are allready plugged, is that a good thing.. Looks like the rear were filled with an aluminum epoxy. The center exhaust cross over in the manifold is open.. Should I keep them that way?? By the way this is a 1980 manifold. Also the front water passage on one side is is starting to eate away at the aluminum a little. Could I use the epoxy Aluminum to repair this?? I plan on matching the intake ports to the heads and doing a light bit of porting here. I see in one front intake port where the plendium bracket mounts there is a bolt that is down into it for 1 inch...Guess I will have to replace that bolt for a much much shorter bolt...Plan on running a straight edge over these mounting surfaces. .. Is there anything else I would have to do before mounting this bad boy ?? I guess I will have to set up my parts washer now. Plan on ditching the EGR valve too..
 
I personally fill in all of the EGR passages with JB weld... so I dont think those being filled are an issue, the cross over heat, you may want to keep... but I dont use them myself.


I hadnt seen a broken bolt in the manifold! shucks! I didnt eyeball it very good at all! as for the erosion in the port... I didnt think it looked like it would be an issue but if it leaks or this intake is just plain being a hassel then I will send ya another for free. Sorry about that.... i must have had my mind else where........ women...

just wash the hell out of it really, or tape the ports off and have it bead blasted. that aluminum will look great once its all cleaned up.

:wink:A.j.
 
Kinda agree with Aj Vince. Since you're in the frozen north you might want to leave the one hole unplugged to heat the manifold up some for cold driving. I'd leave the EGR myself to help keep knock down some while crusing. It won't hurt you at all.

As far as the corrosion, make sure to use lots of ultra black on the water areas and you should be good if you clean it up with a blaster or wire wheel.
 
if you read that book how to build buick engines they tell you to do that it can get you a increase of 15hp. dont kill me if its wrong; thats whats in the book.
 
A. J. The manifold if fine don't worry about it, Glad to have it !!
What the heck is Ultra Black?? And how would adding the EGR Keep knock down?? Seems like it would just be adding heat & exhaust gas to dilute my mix .. Should I paint the bottom of the manifold ?? Also in the back of the manifold there is 2 drain holes one by the EGR valve looks like it has a piece of hose in it...is that suppose to be there or is there suppose to be some kind of a rubber grommet there ?? :cool:
 
The passenge side of the intake is where the turbo drain is and the drivers side is where the PCV valve goes.

Introducing exhaust gases to the air/fuel mixture decreases cylinder temps slightly which cuts detonation issues and NOX emmisions. Since you've got most of the passeges blocked the heating of the intake would be minimal.
 
Manifold prep

i think I get it..by letting the exhaust come through you are reallying slowing down the flame front. But too you are actually cutting back on the power, wouldn't water injection serve the same purpose and be even better?? I would cut way back on the carbon..Seems like the EGR would just coat every thing with carbon...??
 
The EGR is less than 5% in most cases. By adding alky you basically eliminate the carbon build up issue to almost nothing. The big carbon build up is fron cam overlap and pressure that is built up in the engine.
 
What is Ultra Black?? Have to wait for the snow to melt to blast this manifold...maybe in March...Have to see If I can get some JB weld around here. When I Reupholster these old T-Bird seats I have for the Buick will post a photo.. going for a leer look. Any simple fixes I can do for the trans I have in this buick ?? I mean the shift points really suck, doesn't stay in second long enough..I guess I could always just manually shift it.
 
Ultra Black is a silicone sealant that works better than most out there. It's made by permatex.

As far as the T bird seats, check to make sure the frames aren't cracked. I've seen lots of them crack on the upper part.

As far as the tranny, you may want to look at CKperformance in the vendor section. Chris has been great anytime I've called him. He should be able to help you figure out what's going on with it.
 
intak prep

That sounds good. I have been checking out the manifold.. and I see that they are using the EGR as a support for the plendum. If I was to remove it the whole EGR unit would be too unstable. I am thinking now I will just block off the EGR.. I have the front orginal bracket on the plendum and it bolts nicely to the manifold making a strong support for this baby.. Think I will get this thing running before playing with the trans... that sounds like a job for next winter.. Somebody went crazy with that black silicone on this manifold...almost looks like they used it instead of a gasket. Scraped it all off with a razor.
I have been looking at the dash for a Buick Rivera I think 83 man that thing looks sharp ...its all digital...they must have all kind of a strange setup to make those gages work...Anybody ever trying one of these dashes into anohter car??
 
You'd have to use the SFI set up to use the digital dash. If you want to look at an alternative you need to take a look at the Dakota Digital. It's kinda pricey though.
 
Hey...If you think keeping the EGR will help things maybe I will give it a try..and see what happens...I remember so many times repairing cars with sticky Carboned up EGR Valves especially those ford winzor motors...man you almost had to beat those things out they got so caked in. The one frame in that seat looks good anyway the other one is still together.. I have seen a lot of broken seats too... Usually its from a big fat guy sitting in it pushing too hard with his feet when he gets into it. Thats one of the first welding jobs I had.
 
Well the issues with the Ford system was because they used an adaptor plate that didn't keep everything warm enough and dumped the PCV emissions back into the same place. I've dug quite a few of them out myself because they had a tendancy to blow oil into the air cleaner. GM didn't have the same problem.
 
I see this intake has a knock sensor on it . Is there any way I could hook this up?? also on the left side of the water outlet hose housing there is another sensor with what looks like a spark wire connector stuck in it with some kind of a pin in the center of it... Any Idea what this is..??
 
What do you call that hat that goes on the carb? And where can I get one?? What is the size of the hose that goes into it..what is that about 4 inchs in diameter. Which ones work better ?
 
Adam, The top of my holley is 5 inches, seems to me that a 5 inch one would work the best..want to run the tube out to the grill. I doubt if I would have room under the hood for a monster like that, but I am thinking now about using an aftermarket chrome air cleaner and welding in a circle of sheet metal around it with a 5 inch tube sticking out for me to hook up the hose. Maybe I could pick up one of those big drain hoses at Home Depot or something. Probably be rough to find a air filter that size unless I use another air cleaner.
Tell me about the Buick you have that does an 8 second quarter @ 178 What the hell do you have in it ?? Is it nitro methane ??:cool:
 
Your right, That stuff won't fit under a stock hood Vince. There is barely enough room in a stocker.
Spectre has everything you could ever dream of as far as air cleaners/ tubes, carb hats.
 
Thanks for the info !! One stupid question....is there an easy way to get that back spark plug on the Passenger side ??? Always end up using an open end wrench and olny being to turn it 1/4 inch at a time. Really thinking of cutting a hole in that Wheelwell..
 
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