Injector harness help--long

Martin U

Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
This is a re-post of a question I asked in the hot air forum,but never got any response. Maybe I asking the wrong question the wrong way I don't know. Any way I'm going to get what info together I can and just start probing some wires and see if I can find something.
If you can offer a simple and easy way to do this ,I would be very thankful to you all. This what I asked.
"
Hi All,
I have a no start condition. I do have spark,and the fuel pump starts and prime as it is supposed to. cam sensor was set using Casper setting tool. I do question weather I am on the compression stroke, I had my finger over the spark plug hole,checking for air escaping.
The engine will fire and run as long as I am spraying starting fluid. The 3 injectors I ran power to cycled an relieved fuel pressure in the rail.
The noid light I tried did not flash, bought a new set and still no flash.
So I am thinking that the harness is not getting power. The biggest problem I have is ME! I have absolutely no concept of electricity. I can do += red, -=black. I have two test meters and no ability to use them. So all these testing procedures go over my head. I don't think I'm stupid,Tool & Diemaked,designer. I just need more basic instructions. I can sort of read the wiring schematics,except all the squiggly stuff.
I believe I have the cam sensor,crank sensor ,injector harness connectors correct but I may be wrong.
OH all is set up for 87 ecm and coil pack. I ran great before tearing it down to check the condition of my first build.
How can i check the connectors to the harness for power,and how do i test the harness it self.
 
theres 7 wires in the harness that has 8 ports , the one thats out there on its own (pink wire) is the power and should have 12v key on ,the ecm grounds the injectors to make them work

the Fuel pump and injectors are on the same circuit (FP/INJ fuse in fusebox) so if you have prime you should have 12v to injectors

the injectors wont flow if the cam sensor (cap) isnt working ..but you say set with a cam tool so cap should be functional (if its plugged in and reluctor spins ) . you can check the output wire at the cam sensor for hi low signal with a volt meter ( pin B at sensor or at pin K at C3I ign module)
you also need the crank sensor to work , the crank sensor reluctor wheel on the back of the balancer has to be in the end slot of the sensor to function (sensor also has to be plugged in) . you can read the output with a volt meter at pin f at the C3I ignition module and signal should go high and low as its cranked
 

Attachments

  • 41c.jpg
    41c.jpg
    64.7 KB · Views: 106
Last edited:
Thank you so very much. This I think I can do. I just needed a different explanation than what my mind was sputtering on. I did put a new crank sensor in just in case.
Could the cam sensor still be off 180deg, I set it with the piston on the up stoke marks aligned.
I will not have the chance to work on it until sat, so stay tuned. I have no doubt in my mind it will run if it has fuel. This engine has run smooth and strong from the first turn of the key first time I built it.
Thank again,
Marty
 
Thanks again for the help.IT IS ALIVE! I was looking things over with the print out you sent, getting ready to do the testing. i disconnected the pig tail from the coil pack and thought that two of the female looked pushed in to far. C and G or H. After pushing them up some,I cleaned the contacts and reattached. Hooked up the NOID light and tried it. The flash. was dim but there. I fired in a few seconds,sputtered and all but ran. I had it running on it's own long enough to warm up. Oil pressure looks great. While it was idling I ended up moving the pigtail around and it stalled. So I think I have some connection issue yet, but the big problem is solved.
Pacecarta with out you getting me in to that area I might never have found it. I still need to work on the vacuum hoses and coolant sensor wiring to get it tuned.
Marty
 
Top