Improving 60 foot

R

robh

Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
I'm having a hard time trying to improve on my 60 foot. The best so far is 1.78 with a normal 1.8-1.9. I'm running air bags with 0 DS and 12 psi PS, Southsides lower, stock uppers, stock sway bar using BFG 275/60/15 at 18 psi.

If I leave at anything above 5 psi they spin causing an early upshift or tire shake and back peddling.

This is on a 55k mile Gn with only 30 passes total.

How are guys leaving with 10+psi and hooking?

TIA
 
Try playing with more air in the bags. DS 10-15psi and PS 20-30psi.... Just a suggestion.


Bo
 
I had that same problem, I fixed it by going up on the size of the turbine housing. I wanted to launch at 10psi++, but i was spinning just off the line at 4psi. So I put on a .85 turbine housing to slow down the spoolup. My 60' went from 1.64 to 1.51, and now I can lift my front tires! Also expect a 20-30HP gain on the top end of RPMs. This is one way, there are plenty of other tricks. I have a fake optima battery I got from a display stand at a store, my real batt. is in the trunk. I did not want to drill a hole for an external on/off switch in my trunk. Looks stock. But not! Take 45lbs off front, add 45lbs behind rear axle.
 
I used to get wheel hop on a hard launch with Nittos. Air bags with approx 5# in the drivers side and 20# in the passanger side cured that problem. I would try raising the bag pressure until the hop/shake goes away. The Hoosier QTPs that I run now are a LOT better at the track than the Nittos.
 
Originally posted by robh
I'm having a hard time trying to improve on my 60 foot. The best so far is 1.78 with a normal 1.8-1.9. I'm running air bags with 0 DS and 12 psi PS, Southsides lower, stock uppers, stock sway bar using BFG 275/60/15 at 18 psi.

If I leave at anything above 5 psi they spin causing an early upshift or tire shake and back peddling.

This is on a 55k mile Gn with only 30 passes total.

How are guys leaving with 10+psi and hooking?

TIA
Click to expand...


I've had a best of 1.70 on Drag radials with a stock rearend.
DR's at 15psi, single airbag @ 25psi, 10lb launch.
 
Put 20 psi in the right side bag.

Do a good smoky burnout to open the tires, then keep them clean enough to eat off of the rest of the night. Don't park in dirt, rock or grass after the first run and brush the debris off of them after every run.

To stage, hold 3-5 psi of boost and really stand on the brake. As the lights come down, rapidly mash the gas pedal to the floor, wait an instant THEN release the brake. This should use the chassis to plant the tires while leaving with 10+ psi.

If it doesn't hook, let completely out of it then go WOT again. Don't pedal it, ever. Raise and lower the starting boost or vary the time from WOT to brake relase until you find the magic sequence for your car.
 
I love my Art Carr converter (9") and his tranny brake. Build however much boost your tires can hold, then let'her loose! ....1.51 60' with stock suspension/stock motor/heads, and 28" slicks. Raises the front wheels!
 
Thanks guys for the replys. I will try to mess with the bag pressures and see if that helps.
 
Originally posted by robh
I'm having a hard time trying to improve on my 60 foot. The best so far is 1.78 with a normal 1.8-1.9. I'm running air bags with 0 DS and 12 psi PS, Southsides lower, stock uppers, stock sway bar using BFG 275/60/15 at 18 psi.


TIA
Click to expand...

Get some of the new MT drag radials.:cool:

Bet they knock 1/10th off or more:D
 
Scott, those things are bad as$! I got my front end up with them at MIR, I could not believe it would happen with radials! 13psi in tires, I have a pic of them wrinkling and front end up. 1.54 60'. :D
 
Originally posted by turbo2nr
Scott, those things are bad as$! I got my front end up with them at MIR, I could not believe it would happen with radials! 13psi in tires, I have a pic of them wrinkling and front end up. 1.54 60'. :D
Click to expand...

YEP

I have to wait till next year when my severe blowby and converter issues are fixed.:(

Could you post the pic?:cool:
 
It was a pic I bought at the track, taken by a pro. It looks awsome, but I only have prints, I do not have a scanner to put up.
 
Rear Sway Bar

For the money, I hope it works! I heard great things about that bar, needs welding, right?
Click to expand...

turbo2nr


It is strictly a bolt in job. Takes about 2 hours. No welding required. It's surprising how good it handles on the road and on the strip! I bought a set for my car because of what my friends reported on how their car's handling improved once the bars were installed. It improved the 60 feet times also.
 
I thought it needs welding where the bar goes to body/frame, it bolts on to the axle, right?
 
Originally posted by turbo2nr
I thought it needs welding where the bar goes to body/frame, it bolts on to the axle, right?
Click to expand...

yes it does what you are thinking of is the wolf bar that is a weld in bar which from what i have read and heard is a big no no on the street basicly for strip cars only
 
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