Brandon,
The things to look at when you think your idle is funny are (obviously) idle RPM, which the chip controls...usually 750-775 RPM. The IAC #'s at idle should be 10-30 with the car in P/N and everything up to temp (160-170 degF). Your idle TPS voltage should be .40-.45 volts. Idle BLM should be close to 128...higher than 128 means that the computer is adding fuel therefore it's a bit lean (usually a vacuum leak somewhere)....lower than 128 means it taking fuel out and you're a bit rich. Also look at the MAF # at idle...should be between 4 and 6. Take a look at the O2 cross counts and make sure the O2 sensor is active....the O2 millivolt readings will be jumping all around and this is normal for a closed loop idle.
If all these numbers are within range the idle is probably as good as it will get unless you have something else wrong like bad wires / coil pack / fouled plugs / etc.
If you can't adjust your fuel pressure down, even though the 44 psi is going to be pretty close to what you need, it may indicate a problem with the FP regulator. I would hook up a hot wire to the fuel pump test lead behind the alternator and get a MityVac to hook up to the vacuum line on the top of the regulator....you can pump the MityVac up to...say 10 lbs...and confirm that the regulator is adding 10 psi of fuel pressure....
Yeah...I remember your car. I did a double take on it two years ago at the Shootout. It was parked south of the consession stand over by the burgandy beast that Conley had there. I didn't pay too much attention to the badging and the fender vents until I looked under the hood and saw the GNX intercooler. I stopped myself mid sentence saying "wow, they even put a GNX intercooler on it" (thinking it was a clone). Hmmmmm walked around to the back of it and peeked under the back bumper....NO KIDDING. This guy is racing his GNX! COOOOOOL.
Good Luck and let us know how it goes,
John