Idle Problem/Stalling

C

Cakes

Guest
When first started my car will start up normal and then idle down to normal engine idle (either in gear or not) it will then go down below normal and begin to sputter and then stall. I adjusted the IAC and TPS according to gnttype.org. Does anyone have any suggestions on what else to look for? It also drives fine once the car is moving. It just seems off idle it runs bad. Also after blipping the throttle a few times it will idle fine in gear and in park. Thanks
 
Hello, I was having a similar problem after adjusting my wastegate. I'm still working on what the problem was, and I'll let you know if I learn something. But first off, was your check engine light on at any time? If so, does it go away once you "blip" the throttle, and get her idling well again? I only ask because my SES light was blinking on and off while it idled poorly, and I'm working on getting the "code". Good luck!
 
I had the same prob, just a little worse.

Dont mess with your iac unless you have a scantool and you have had it all apart. i came to find out that my idle problem turned out to be the Coolant Temp sensor. It was only 8 bucks at the local parts store and it idles great now. but it had some acceleration problems after that- it was the 02 sensor and now it is okay. Total cost on parts was 30.00 bucks. Wouldnt hurt to replace em anyway. Keep me posted and let me know what happens....;)
 
I have no codes since I last check this morning....I did clean the throttle body and IAC valve and it does idle better. I was hoping it would cure it, but it didnt. ONe thing I did notice is when I start it and it goes below normal idle it will want to stall and then sometimes come back and idle higher and then settle into normal idle...also when put into gear it will go below normal idle and then come back in the same manner....could this be a sign of anything? I really need help this bugs me so much! Thansk guys in advance!
 
Also I noticed that when I unplug the MAF the car runs better but will still tend to stall out. I also thought of a bad regulator as a problem? Just a thought!
 
Try this for giggles........pull your up-pipe off the TB. Using your hand to open up the butterfly, squirt some Berkley's 2+2 down the TB {Keep a rag up front because it will eventually run back out the TB.......If your TB is "scammer" from oil, it will cause the car to stall at idle.

Mine would stall when I came to a stop light.......I cleaned the TB and it fixed the problem......it will ALSO improve acceleration if your car hesitates.....

I learned this trick from a Buic k Mechanic when I bought my first WE-4 back in 87 !

Good luck!

Tom

87WE-4
68K
IT GOES;)
 
Check for vacuum leaks. Get youself some starter fluid, and spray it aroundf plenum, vacueem block and lines. If your car picks up speed it means you have a vacueem leak. And last, pull out your pcv valve, and spray some more of the fluid into the hole the pcv came out of. If it picks up speed there you have an intake gasket vacuem leak.

Well that was the problem with my car.
 
I have sprayed the whole intake with carb cleaner/throttle body cleaner and the idle did not change one bit. I still find it funny how when I unhook the MAF the car will run much better but again it will go below normal idle rpm and that leads me to believe that its not the MAF. Keep the suggestions coming! I really need to fix this!
 
Another Option for Vaccuum Leaks

You can also use a propane cylinder for soldering copper pipes. The extension on the propane cylinder works and dosent make a mess of fluid???
Just an idea;)
 
Gutted Cat??????

Just wanted to suggest ( this has nothing to do with the idle problem) if you gutted your cat take it down and slip a pipe through it to match your exhaust. it will make spool up faster than a gutted cat. measure the exhaust pipe you have going into it and buy a straight peice of pipe to match and slip a pipe through leaving space for the exhaust to still slide in. they do alot of roadside inspections around my way and this was my way of beating the visual inspection and it made better flow than the gutted cat...................;)
 
Thanks...I'll have to do that once I get this thing running rigth again!:D
 
Replace the CTS

I am telling you to just try it out and replace the cts. the cts send s a signal to the ecm and tells it to change the air/fuel ratio to accomodate for the coolant temp.. I had the same prob and when i posted a message a guy said to me to it sounded like a cts problem and i changed it out and bang there it was.
 
Which coolant temp sensor are you talking about here? There are more than one on the engine. Thanks

paul
 
CTS location.

I am talking about the coolant temp sensor not sender. The sensor is located next to the water neck on the intake manifold. Mine has two wires to the sensor one yellow and one black. Just incase there is a difference???? I dont know if there is? Mine is a 85 t-type.
 
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