Hydroboost Issue after install

[gn.87]

I need some thoughts to what the issue is. I'm no mechanic but I did hire a buddy who is a Turbo Regal owner and an ASE mechanic to tackle the project. I ordered the entire kit from Tallon Hydraulics http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=54_76&products_id=397
we finished the install and our pedal is not firm and when we press it it takes forever to come back up. it actually holds the brakes a moment after releasing the pedal. This kit came with the Wilwood M/C. We called the owner of the Tallon Hydraulics and he had us test the system to make sure the booster was working and we confirmed it was and the lines were correctly routed. He thinks there is air still in the line but my mechanic insists there is not. When bleeding the system we kept tripping the proportioning valve. My mechanic said in all 20 years of doing brakes he has never seen this happen. He said we can change the valve but he does not think this will solve our brake issue mentioned above (soft pedal and long return time. Oh I forgot to mention that when the car is off the pedal is still not that firm but the pedal springs right back with little to no delay. Its only when the car is running do we get a slow returning pedal.


Any thoughts?
Adam

 

[TurboBuRick]

The pedal not returning quick is common. After some use it will improve.
Sounds like there is still air in the system. Does the pedal firm up with a couple pumps?

 

[gn.87]

The pedal not returning quick is common. After some use it will improve.
Sounds like there is still air in the system. Does the pedal firm up with a couple pumps?

We bled it over and over again and put two quarts of fluid through. We bled it by gravity and by the pedal. The pedal does not get any firmer with a couple of pumps.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Did you bench bleed the master?

 

[gn.87]

Did you bench bleed the master?

yes

 

[TurboBuRick]

Did you have to switch the brake lines at the master?

 

[gn.87]

Did you have to switch the brake lines at the master?

we used the factory lines at the master cylinder and confirmed that they are in the correct position.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Get rid of the T fitting on the return lines. Both returns need to go directly to the P/S fluid reservoir. Which usually means using a different one then the stock one.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[gn.87]

Get rid of the T fitting on the return lines. Both returns need to go directly to the P/S fluid reservoir. Which usually means using a different one then the stock one.

RemoveBeforeFlight

Just did this but we used the stock power steering reservoir. No difference in the pedal feel or the speed it springs back while the car is running. It is slow as molasses to return.

 

[turboclam]

Following.

I've been looking at Talon's hydro for a while. Hope it's a simple fix.

 

[gn.87]

Following.

I've been looking at Talon's hydro for a while. Hope it's a simple fix.

Butch is the owner and he is very responsive in regards to helping me trouble shoot. He did advise it could be dirt or grime that got stuck in the booster. There is a filter kit that I was not aware of and he mentioned that the filter is recommended in every application. I will keep you posted.

 

[turboclam]

Thanks. I think I spoke to him in May about preparing the car for hydro. I had the ps pump upgraded so it could handle the increased pressure . Also he answered some q's about a custom reservoir that I had made. My next step is a new lighter steering box and the actual hydro. Everything will be connected with AN fittings.

I've seen the filter and it's a good reminder for me to plumb it in somewhere.

 

[TurboBuRick]

I've installed quite a few hydroboost systems and have always used a T barb on the returns.
Initially all the systems had slow returning pedals. After a while it definitely improved. I don't notice it at all on my car.

 

[gn.87]

I've installed quite a few hydroboost systems and have always used a T barb on the returns.
Initially all the systems had slow returning pedals. After a while it definitely improved. I don't notice it at all on my car.

Nice to know. Thanks for the info.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

We use a cleanable filter from NAPA... About $20.

 

[gn.87]

update,

I drove the car for about 45 minutes. The brakes work well and the pedal still is very slow to come up. The pedal is not as firm as several friends cars with the hydroboost but is more like a stock feel. The vender said I might have dirt in the booster. Anybody have any thoughts? I might try and bleed them once more and replace the proportion valve as we did trip it several times while bleeding the brakes.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Anybody have any thoughts? I might try and bleed them once more and replace the proportion valve as we did trip it several times while bleeding the brakes.

The valve should not be affected by "tripping it".
As for dirt, have you added a filter between the gearbox return line and the res?
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...-Filter-Add-On-Type-/_/R-PNB351004_0377966517

 

[gn.87]

The valve should not be affected by "tripping it".
As for dirt, have you added a filter between the gearbox return line and the res?
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/P-S-Filter-Add-On-Type-/_/R-PNB351004_0377966517

No filter was added. I will but as of now it was not.

 

[TexasT]

Probably wouldn't hurt to change the fluid too. When I did my swap I flushed the PS and the brake fluid out.

 

[getdowngranny]

I had the same exact issue when I converted to hydroboost a few months ago. I had to change the proportioning valve and bleed the brakes with a mity vac. I installed speed bleeders and tried to bleed it by pumping the brakes but no matter how many times I bled the system that way it always had issues with the pedal. As soon as I bled it with the mity vac it was perfect. BTW, I changed the proportioning valve because I was already there, not necessarily because it was bad. It was the old iron one and I installed a brass one from Highway Stars.


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