HVAC problems

Joe 1320

Torqueus Maximus
Joined
Feb 28, 2002
The Gn's air blows cold, the problem is the air diverter. Start it up in the morning and the air is not flowing thought the vents. After a minute or so, the diverter door literally slams into position. You can hear some sort of seal sticking as if there was a sticky residue on the flap seal. Once it breaks loose, everything works just great. It's done this for many years albiet the car has rarely been used in the last 15 years. Anyone else run into this? How much of a PITA is it to get to the diverter assembly?

Thanks, Joe
 
Your problem may be a vacuum leak. I think the "default" position is for the defroster vents and the system uses dash pots to hold/move the doors to other positions. A leak would mean that when the car sits the door returns to default and it may take a little bit to draw enough vac. to move the door.
 
Your problem may be a vacuum leak. I think the "default" position is for the defroster vents and the system uses dash pots to hold/move the doors to other positions. A leak would mean that when the car sits the door returns to default and it may take a little bit to draw enough vac. to move the door.

Thanks for the idea, I already applied a vacuum on the line going to the unit and the vacuum held. I think the only option left is to pull out the diverter assembly as the flap seal definately sticks. You can hear the seal start to seperate as if there were a sticky residue on the seal, then "Bam" the diverter slams to the next position. It's loud enough that it sounds like you just hit the dash with your hand with decent force. Once it breaks loose, everything functions as it should. I wonder if misting some sort of product like maguires qwick detailer (wax based) though the diverter assembly would stop the sticking?
 
The Gn's air blows cold, the problem is the air diverter. Start it up in the morning and the air is not flowing thought the vents. After a minute or so, the diverter door literally slams into position. You can hear some sort of seal sticking as if there was a sticky residue on the flap seal. Once it breaks loose, everything works just great. It's done this for many years albiet the car has rarely been used in the last 15 years. Anyone else run into this? How much of a PITA is it to get to the diverter assembly?

Thanks, Joe

Mine did the same thing for 2 years , especially when it sat for long time(which I thought was a sticking diverter door ) ,when recently installing engine I found a crack in plastic hard vaccum lines on firewall, so repaired it and when I fired up the motor after sitting for 6 month I turned on A\C just too see if still had freon in system and Bam :eek: a\c blew out the vent right away. OR maybe the stars lined up and that fixed it ?

The hard line ran threw 2 loom clips on the firewall and mine was cracked behind one of them so look good there.
My dad's T does the same thing so I need to check his too when I get time.
 
I'm having a similar problem with the hard plastic vaccum lines that run along the firewall and right side of the heater box. The hard line that connects to the vent actuator came off. I just replaced the heater core and now I can't select any different vents.

Does anyone know an easy way to reconnect it?

It looks like it is under the heater box. Do I have to remove the whole thing or can I get to it some other way?

Joe 1320 sorry for jumping on your thread, thought one of these guys might be able to help me.
 
I think you're talking about where the plastic lines disappear down past the blower motor into the inner fender-well???? If so, they go down and plug into a rubber grommet that connects them to the same color lines inside the passenger compartment just above where the engine wire harness passes through the firewall. What I did was from the passenger compartment side, pulled the rubber connector/ grommet from the hole then took a stiff piece of wire (coat hanger) and used it as a fish. I just used a piece of 3/16 rubber hose to connect the wire to the hard plastic to pull it down through the hole from the engine compartment and into the pass. compartment. (use a long enough piece of hose that you have a couple extra feet in the engine bay once it comes through the hole). Once you pull it through you can reconnect it the the back side of the connector / grommet. Then re-insert the grommet into the hole. Inside the engine bay I replaced the hard plastic with rubber hose, it will deteriorate over time but so does the hard plastic, now everything works as it should. Hope this helps.....
 
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