HR rear bar vs Sphoon rear sway/anti roll bar

[IrvJr]

I like hearing an opinion from someone who switched from an ATR to this. I have an ATR and love the way it handles, but hate the clunking noise.

 

[T-CHRGD]

Here are a couple more pics of our display that might help:

Does this fit with a GNX rear suspension ??

John

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

I like hearing an opinion from someone who switched from an ATR to this. I have an ATR and love the way it handles, but hate the clunking noise.

here's one...

I made the switch from the atr style bar to the H&R bar and the difference was night and day. Well worth the money IMO

 

[ttaowner]

subscribed

 

[IrvJr]

here's one...

thanks, thats the one i was referring too.

 

[J-B Racing]

I have nothing against HR Parts as I run the Mounts on my engine. Due to the fact that I am in Canada and my Dollar feels like Cheese Cloth, I went with the Spohn that I just finished installing. A friend of mine has the HR Bar. But for me to save a good $150 US is like $200 CDN for the only difference I see are the U-Clamps ( as a Customer ).
No offence to Paul and his Product just that sometimes Savings come to hand first.

If I was loaded to the Gills.. HR would of been my Choice..:wink:

 

[HRpartsNstuff]

Does this fit with a GNX rear suspension ??

John

It doesn't fit with the GNX cover/setup from what I have heard & seen. I am not loaded to the gills either, or I would have one here to test fit with

I'm sure some think I am getting rich here with my stuff at slightly higher prices than my competitors, but in reality, I would bet I am making LESS profit than they are on the parts. The actual VALUE of what you get for what you pay for is a LOT more/better on our stuff IMO, but obviously that looks biased from my point of view :smile:

We put SO MUCH extra care & effort & craftmanship into each & every part that it's really hard to point it out or see it. It's not that the added work isn't important or needed because it is! Not to make it sell for more money, but needed to make it the best it can be & last the longest & work as advertised!

The stuff I am referring to here are things like:
Upper Axle brackets - Ground flat & deburred with generous radius on top/outer edges and where the brake lines run thru (for safety), which has to be done by hand to keep the gripper points sharp. Gripper point reliefs are balled milled by hand if there are any leftover "slag" from the laser cut profile, just to make sure they grip on the part they are intended to grip on. The start/stop points on the laser cut edges are smoothed out so the undercuts don't start a stress crack where they could fail. The threaded holes are plugged during sand blast to make sure nothing is in there to mess up installation. The holes are also flushed & blown out separately when cleaning to make SUPER sure nothing is in there. They are also pre-oiled to make sure stuff installs & torques correctly, and wrapped in wax paper to make sure they don't stick together or get scratched up, and then packed in foam for shipping.

And that is just the upper axle clamps!!!!
Anyone can get stuff plasma cut vs laser (cheaper) and slap some paint on it (some don't even do that!) & send it out. And that is EXACTLY what a lot do to keep thier costs down & profits up. That has never been my goal. Mine has been to make as close to a perfect product as I can that works better than anything out there, and sell it as reasonable as I can so racers can be EXTREMELY proud to own it for years & years! I get that from my days of racing & buying stuff that makes me feel like I would have been better off burning my money & kicking myself in the groin, than dealing with the issues and problems associated with some stuff.

I go to Summit every so often (20 min away ) and get some competitors stuff just to look at & compare things like craftmanship & packing etc. I really don't compare construction or design since EVERYTHING I have seen is strictly based on how CHEAP they can make it. Is is interesting to get a set of low CA's from a WELL KNOWN competitor that has been around for years, and see that they are actaully painted vs powdercoat, no surface prep first & the paint was already peeling off, no packing around the CA's as they roll around in the box, end tubes were about half the thickness of ours, the inside corners were still sharp (which will tear/peel off the shoulder of the poly bushings!!!), the finish looked like they put them wet in front of a fan & sweeped the floor, etc, etc. We even grind a chamfer on the front of our bolts so they install MUCH easier, and actually look/work more like the factory bolts.

The differences in a picture are HARD to see. The differences with the parts sitting side by side are INSANE!!! I am actually collecting my competitors parts (both new & used) to show what you actually get for your savings of less than 20% difference. We are actually CHEAPER than some competitors on stuff, since we don't have that huge brand name thay pay millions to promote with their 50' tractor trailer rig display & corporate ad campaigns etc.

All the extra work & effort & attention to details we put in are WELL worth it when I hear how happy people are with our stuff & how easy installation went & how 10 yrs later everything is as good as the day they bought it! In reality, if I had to mark up my extra costs to do things right (like labor and materials/outside services etc) like others mark theirs up, mine would cost double what they do now, and I could afford to actually take a paycheck! Many don't realize it, but I do this stuff becasue I LOVE the & the sport & the people (mostly the Buick guys & gals ! I don't take any W-2 income, profit sharing, draws, or other compensation from the company. I guess that's why it's been 2-1/2 years since the shell of my building was put up & I still haven't finished it & still not working out of it like I should be. The part that keeps me going is that I get to do what I LOVE & go to the events (that I can take time off for) and hopefully it all pays off one day & I can get back into racing myself! Then maybe when I post sponsor money, it isn't as costly since I might win my own sponsor money back (like some other vendors do) and not actually have to pay it out

PS - We see the high costs associated with Canada & overseas shipping etc & try to help you guys out when we can. We got customers in Sweden, Finland, Australia, even Estoria (find that one on the map!) Just email me, never hurts to ask What REALLY helps is when you get a few guys together on a package deal & drive down to the border & pick up from a US address, or install it while here & DRIVE the parts back home :biggrin:

PS- Anyone that knows how to get the bigger pics on a post, please email me details. Been so busy making parts, I just learned how to GET a pic on here! Hate it when technology starts passing me up. I still use my cell phone to make calls with, silly me

 

[Sweet6]

I like hearing an opinion from someone who switched from an ATR to this. I have an ATR and love the way it handles, but hate the clunking noise.

I had the ATR and went to the HR bar. It was night and day better. No more clunking and the car rode 100 times better. The HR bar was worth every penny to me. 3 of my friends made the switch after me and all of them said the HR bar was a great investment.

 

[benoitthegr8]

Paul's bar in second to none, so is his customer service... I called with an issue about 2 months back while installing his bar, I left a message and he called me back in 20 minutes... on a Saturday... love my suspension setup Paul, thanks.

 

[turbo nasty]

HR bar here as well. Honestly I was on the fence between the 2 bars and the heat treatment was why I went for the HR bar. At this years BG I had the priviledge to meet Paull and teh HR crew. After meeting them..Im glad i supported them as they are top notch super good folks. And, as stated they support the TB community.

 

[Roger]

I have one of the original HR bars & the lower control arms.

I picked up 5mph going through the roundabout - it really improved handelling.

Works great at the track, almost perfectly straight with almost no body roll.

No cracks in the c pillar area.

Quality throughout.

I also threw the torque strap out when I installed HR motor mounts.

I'm happy to support Buick vendors & pleased with their support, even when I pester them on the phone or email.

 

[ttaowner]

ttt

 

[toofastforyou]

I have a few H&R parts on my car (upper control arms and sway bar). Speaking of the sway bar, it fits very well and the finish is top notch. It will make the car leave straight at the line, BUT...it takes some of the "fun" factor out of racing a turbo Buick...Let me explain: No more wild and crooked wheelies requiring a handfull of driving skills anymore with it..:frown:. I know the bar is made to prevent this from happening, but nevertheless, it was FUN! After a run like that, everyone was coming to see me in the pits, saying how they were impressed about how the car was reacting off the line! ...but not anymore.

Claude. :redface:

 

[GNregistry]

HR Sway Bar photos & Track Tested Results, Youtube Video 12.49 @ 109 on 245/50/16

Year later, I found this link and saw no photos... video of 12.496 @ 109 mph, next pass 12.396 @ 108 mph
In addition, my GN on street tires, is consistent with 60' of 1.806 at Bowling Green, KY GS Nationals Oct 2010
and then in Summer 2011 at WIR, Real Street Drags where there is NO TRACK PREP, almost like driving on the street and my GN had 60' of 1.95...

HR Sway Bar with Lower & Upper Control Arms from HR partsNstuff
http://www.gsnationals.com/GNHT_Images/87GNHT_UC2A.JPG

http://www.gsnationals.com/GNHT_Images/87GNHT_UC1A.JPG

[video=youtube_share;8_POytIB6xc]http://youtu.be/8_POytIB6xc?t=30s[/video]