How to up voltage output of CS144

[Boost231]

I'm not a electrical person by any means.

I want to get more voltage from my alternator. Would be nice if I can get solid constant volatge above 14v at all times with no drop if possible. If not i want to get about .6v more across the board from where I'm at.

Right now I have ign 12v to pin L only. If I wire pin S (sense wire) to battery any idea how much that will bump up voltage if any at all.

I have damn near zero voltage drop between alt and battery so I'm not sure how much wiring the sensor wire will help to the battery. I could probe around the factory fuse box area and look for a terminal with lower voltage and wire that to S that should bump it up.

Now if that doesn't work and give me the voltage bump I'm looking for can I put a diode from the alt output plug to S? Figured the diode (correct one) will trick the alternator to think its lower than it is.

Thoughts?

No this car isn't using factory wiring in the engine bay.
Car is on a stand alone harness.
All hand wired.
Isn't a dash light problem
Battery is good
Alt is good
Alt is high output


Thanks

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[TurboBob]

spoofing the S terminal is how the voltboosters work. in testing I got mine to go over 22v, so the alternator should do whatever you want it to do. a plain diode or 2 should work, I'm not sure what the input impedance of the S terminal is, you may need a resistor to ground to get the diodes up to their usual Vf.

Bob

 

[Boost231]

Can't edit my post but another option I was thinking was getting an adjustable voltage regulator.

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[Boost231]

Thanks Bob, figured this would take some trial and error. Figured I could wire the S to battery first and see what it does. Then maybe a terminal with crap voltage. Then go diode or change regulators out

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[ITSAV6]

There is an adjustable regulator for it. Try googling or ebay.

 

[Boost231]

There is an adjustable regulator for it. Try googling or ebay.

I put that in my other reply. Can't edit posts

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[Boost231]

There is an adjustable regulator for it. Try googling or ebay.

Figured that would be my last resort as the internal regulator should be able to work just need to wire the S terminal correctly.

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[turbobitt]

Typically the more voltage the "S" terminal sees the lower the charging output voltage will be simply because it won't think it needs anymore if its getting a good voltage with no drop. Fooling it using a pair of resisters like a volt booster does will raise the voltage by applying a dropped voltage to the sensing terminal.

But then again I'm no electrical expert.... Just know enough to be dangerous.

I was thinking of permanently modifying an alternator this way to output 19.5 volts charging for my16 volt battery but have a concern about its long term durability and don't know if will cause electrical damage to the regulator ???

I never hear of this diode trick and would like to know the science behind that trickery to satisfy my own curiosity.

AG.

 

[Jerryl]

Disclaimer; I am electronically challenged.

My car had a Reds VB which worked great. Just wanted to clean up the engine bay and get better control over the voltage and trigger point.

I studied electronic principles for months and ended up building a user adjustable volt booster that is triggered via xfi. Been on the car for about a year and works great. Dialed it to 15.5V when triggered, to protect my stereo equipment. Lol.

It is my understanding that a diode will lower voltage 0.7V from input. In series that would be about 1.4V . . . No news to the experts.

 

[Jerryl]

Should have stated 0.4-0.7V drop.

 

[Boost231]

Disclaimer; I am electronically challenged.

My car had a Reds VB which worked great. Just wanted to clean up the engine bay and get better control over the voltage and trigger point.

I studied electronic principles for months and ended up building a user adjustable volt booster that is triggered via xfi. Been on the car for about a year and works great. Dialed it to 15.5V when triggered, to protect my stereo equipment. Lol.

It is my understanding that a diode will lower voltage 0.7V from input. In series that would be about 1.4V . . . No news to the experts.

No need in my setup for voltage above 14.4v, everything runs good till a nice long drive then the alternator falls short. But even when cold this thing only puts out 13.8. After a long drive it's down to 12.8. With a 1v drop my xfi has to compensate.

If I could keep voltage at 14.4 or anything above 14 at all times I would be happy.

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[salvageV6]

Generally after driving around a while your battery is charged up and the alternator lowers the voltage output so it doesn't cook it.

But here ya go ...

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/projects/gnalt.html

 

[Boost231]

Generally after driving around a while your battery is charged up and the alternator lowers the voltage output so it doesn't cook it.

But here ya go ...

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/projects/gnalt.html

Yea I've seen that before. Just need to figure out which way to try first. Think I'll try wiring the sense wire to bat first.

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[earlbrown]

I think a potentiometer would be better than just using fixed resistors. That way you can fine tune the voltage, or set it so high you blow lots of crap up.

 

[TurboBob]

do a little math, pick some resistors.

its not rocket surgery

B

 

[Boost231]

do a little math, pick some resistors.

its not rocket surgery

B

Lol, for me it's like open heart surgery

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[mikestertwo]

Run the sense line to a switched ignition point in the fuse box not the battery. That's what I did on my car. The voltage typically runs at 14.2 volts. Never goes below 13.8 when hot. The regulator has temperature compensation in it so it will always drop a little when warm.

 

[Boost231]

Run the sense line to a switched ignition point in the fuse box not the battery. That's what I did on my car. The voltage typically runs at 14.2 volts. Never goes below 13.8 when hot. The regulator has temperature compensation in it so it will always drop a little when warm.

I figured that. Was going to look for a point with the lowest voltage

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[RmvBfrFlght]

Grab either the power master or fan delay relay main feed and tie that to the S terminal. These feeds go back to the starter via a fusible link. Raised the overall system voltage by .5 - .6 volts.

Used the PNK/BLK wire from the EGR solenoid and wired it to the F terminal.

> Right now I have ign 12v to pin L only.

Shouldn't do this as it can ruin the regulator in the alternator. Move it to the F terminal as it is designed for +12 volt input.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[Boost231]

Grab either the power master or fan delay relay main feed and tie that to the S terminal. These feeds go back to the starter via a fusible link. Raised the overall system voltage by .5 - .6 volts.

Used the PNK/BLK wire from the EGR solenoid and wired it to the F terminal.

> Right now I have ign 12v to pin L only.

Shouldn't do this as it can ruin the regulator in the alternator. Move it to the F terminal as it is designed for +12 volt input.

RemoveBeforeFlight

Thanks for the help as this will be useful for those with stockish cars.

I don't have a power master or fan delay relay. This car is on a stand alone harness and all and wired. I can wire this however I need.

Right now it's got ign 12v to L as i dont run a stock dash. It is run without a light.



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