How to deal with all the "hot wire" connections on the back of the alternator

[Pronto]

How are people handling all the hot wire connections that have to go to the positive post on the alternator? They can't be stacked well and are taking up a lot of room. I want to add a Volt Booster and there is no room for another wire. I need a longer stud!

 

[buddy]

I'm pretty sure my hot wire kit had one connector that went to the alternator post.

 

[v6turbo87]

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Pronto]

Double pumper and vacuum pump to the stud is crowded already.

 

[we4Mateo]

I put a marine top post connector on my battery when I switched to the Optima battery and ran all my hotwire connections off of that. The only extra ring on my alt is the extra wire I ran to the positive post on the battery so voltage is still very consistent with less than a .20V loss between alt and battery when very hot.

Having top and side posts has been a blessing in disguise.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Local jy most likely has a pos stud, in a protected box. [Think late model trucks.] Mount it over on the inner fender, and then feed it w/ 1 wire.

 

[GNONYX]

Thinking out of the box, but maybe you can put a threaded screw coupling on the alternator output screw, then put your terminal stat-on and lock them with a lock washer and cap screw.
I think the alternator nut is a 10mm nut, but I don't know what is the threaded screw size is, and don't where else to buy them, but found this web site

http://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=15802

 

[fuzzyGN]

The picture above is called a sex nut or bolt. No I didn't make it up, it is the name of the thingy above. Most don't know the proper name so expect some snickers if you ask for one. Personally I wouldn't want any more length or weight hanging off the alternator bolt than was necessary. Many better options in my opinion.

 

[GNONYX]

The picture above is called a sex nut or bolt. No I didn't make it up, it is the name of the thingy above. Most don't know the proper name so expect some snickers if you ask for one. Personally I wouldn't want any more length or weight hanging off the alternator bolt than was necessary. Many better options in my opinion.

Funny to be called a sex nut, then again anything is possible.
Like I said before thinking out of the box may not be the way to go, but I found another solution , something similar to what Chuck was referring to.
I used to work on boats and Yacht, and maybe you can check out these sites that has terminal block with Clear Lexan cover for protection:
http://www.iboats.com/Blue-Sea-Dual...w_id.38627#tab_container_ProductInfoContainer
http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/_junction_blocks.asp
http://www.lfsmarineoutdoor.com/boa...wer-distribution/busbars-terminal-blocks.html

 

[liquidh8]

I just use a factory GM red terminal stud/box from a late model GM car. Mount where it looks good and the wires reach, (since yours are already run), and add a nice large gauge wire from the alt stud to the terminal stud/box.

 

[Pronto]

OK, here's what I did. I got an Ell bracket, M6x1x20 panhead machine screw, and 2 nuts. Got the 2 fuel pump hot wires on and when I get the Volt Booster that will go on there too. The other leg is the Caspers positive cable (10 gauge?) and the vacuum pump power from the Racetronix harness. Unless I find something better this will do. It looks close to the alternator in the picture but there is about 1/2" clearance.

 

[GNONYX]

By George you got it, and it looks good nice work

 

[Pronto]

Once I have the Volt Booster hooked up I'll find a boot to cover the wires.