How to change the front and rear brake pads?

[robmerrill]

Hi,

I hear its pretty easy but could someone give me a step by step way to change the brake pads? I did a search and something about a spring came up but I just want to make sure.

I am also go to use RAYBESTOS Part # PGD412M for front and RAYBESTOS Part # PGD413M for rear. Is this good stock replacement?

Thanks,

Rob

 

[turbota633]

it's been a long time since I did it on the TTA, so I don't remember if there's a special procedure as opposed to any other car. Just take the wheel off, there's generally 2 bolts mounting the caliper in place, one on top and one on bottom, remove them. Then, with a RUBBER mallet, tap as needed to get the caliper and old pads loose from the rotor. use a small piece of wood, put it on top of the caliper pistons, and depress them by tightening a C-clamp with one end on the board and the other end on the underside of the caliper, or go to the auto store and rent the special tool to do so. I always put some anti-seize (silver lubricant) on the little tab on the top and bottom of the new pad on the spot which will rest on the caliper and also I put some on the face which will contact the piston (maybe not a necessity, but I learned that way, so it's just habit). Put the pads in place, re-mount the caliper, put the wheel back on, test it out...carefully, slowly. I also put anti-seize on the bolts when re-mounting the caliper.

Hope this helps you out!

 

[robmerrill]

I thought these brakes were able to be changed in like "30 seconds? becuase of an easy to change spring? I guess I wrong but here in a write up:

"The Turbo TA came with the rare 1LE racing brake package, which upgrades the front discs to 12 inch police rotors, Corvette twin piston aluminum calipers and semi-metallic pads. These brakes are virtually fade proof, and were installed to legalize the 1LE package for Firehawk endurance racing. The rear discs were also increased to 12 inches in 1989 and use Corvette single piston calipers. All of the brakes on the car are of a quick change design, and pads can actually be changed in 30 seconds. "

 

[turbota633]

Time for someone wiser than me to speak up here. It's been a long time since I've messed with my TTA brakes.

 

[Quiky One]

Time for someone wiser than me to speak up here. It's been a long time since I've messed with my TTA brakes.

You are right. I am not sure how in the world you can do it in 30 seconds.

Jason

 

[turbota633]

You are right. I am not sure how in the world you can do it in 30 seconds.

Jason

The only thing I can figure they may mean by 30 seconds is with the wheel off, and this is an "if" statement....if the calipers are set up some sort of manner where you can remove the top mounting bolt and swing the caliper down, knock the old pads out, put the new one's in and swing it back up into place and put the top mount bolt back in place that's just a wild guess of what a "quick change" set up might mean....and still, a more than 30 second process.

...and that's a long shot for a guess, because somehow, someway, you still need to depress the pistons in the caliper because the new pads will be significantly thicker than the old pads.

Anyone out here in TTA land have the facts, because I'm just brainstorming here.

 

[SYTECH]

Brake Changes Are Pretty Quick

I just did the front brakes on my TTA

All I did was a pad change

If you want to surface the rotor, then the entire caliper is coming off and these instructions don't work

For a pad change:

All it takes (once the wheel is off) is a needlenose plier to remove (1) clip,

pop out (1) straight pin,

Use a standard screwdriver to pry up the lower edge of the center of the caliper assembly,

Swivel the center of the caliper up and out from the top

Pop out the pad farthest from the piston (by hand or screwdriver).

Remove the brake reservoir cap, put some rags around it to catch accidental brake fluid spills, and carefully used a pair of channel lock pliers to slowly tighten against the brake pad (on the pistons) to return the pistons to the fully compressed position

When that was done pop out the pad, clean everything up, re-install the new pad, and install in revese order

Total time to get the pads out can be less than 1 minute........IF.........you remember how the pads are positioned in order to re-install

I took a little longer than (1) minute on the first side, but I'd say (1) minute was about right on the passenger side

Caliper frame does not get removed or unbolted unless you want to surface the rotors

I also inspected and re-adjusted the front wheel bearings once I finished with the brakes

This weekend I do the rears

Good luck

 

[robmerrill]

Thanks. Finally someone has changed their own brakes. I was beginning to think that I was crazy!!

Could you tell me if the pin and clip are located on the bottom of caliper? And the clip is on the inside near the engine side? I think I saw what you were talking about but I wanted to makes sure.

And do you swivel the the caliper from the bottom up to to top and leave it there or actully remove it and place to the side?

Rob

 

[SYTECH]

You Have It Right Rob

Straight Pin with circlip on end (clip inside near engine) are located on the bottom of the caliper

If its been a while since they have been removed the pin may need some lube or a quick pop with a small diameter screwdriver

Swivel the caliper from the bottom up and remove center assembly from the caliper frame (hose will be attached)

Once its off you'll see the center section arm cutouts and how they slide back into place securing the center assembly into the frame

Wire tie the removed caliper to support weight or carefully let it hang (supported by brake line) and do your work fast

Good Luck