How to best tell true mileage if the car

[TRICKSIXPA]

Well since most likely you can't pull the cam or inspect the timing set. I look for the doors to close easily, Weatherstripping, all the correct stickers, factory papers being under the rear seat, and then there are a bunch of things under the hood to look at. Low mileage cars could still have upgrades it's always good to make sure your comfortable buying the car from the person selling it to you. If you get "Im not sure" or "I can't remember" keep walking.

 

[standupjskiguy]

""CarFax doesn't mean anything, its just a selling tool for dealers and they manipulate it to their advantage, CarFax is not accurate.
A car can be repaired "off the grid" and nobody is the wiser.""

It may not be the last word but I would not say "it doesn't mean anything". Mine had data from emission tests and dealer recalls etc.
The guy at the emission testing station, one time entered 99K thinking my odometer turned over. He did not realize my car had about 10K on it. His entry got picked up on Carfax and I had to fax a boatload of documents to get them to change the report.
So it's not like they would change it just on my word so there is some integrity there.
It's a piece of the puzzle that helps you get a true low mileage GN.

 

[hiboom]

The bottom line is documation and how the car was taken care of most of all! I spent 2 years twice a week doing nothing but looking and buying auction car for dealers the old cliche if its at a auction there is something wrong with it is not always the case ,but sometimes was true. I would rather have a car with a few miles and been taken care of then one with no miles and had the crap beat out of it!! I have also seen low mile car for other reasons, spend life being rebuilt in body shop unfixable gremlins no one can find or fix .If it is low mileage there is a reason because it was used for a investment potential or there's unexplained problems (lemon) I've seen it both ways.

 

[INEEDAGN]

You can lube that cable from under the hood. There's a connection near the firewall; wrench it apart, pull the drive shaft out a bit, then lube away. No need to remove the cluster for this procedure.

Upper half of the cable can't be pulled out from that connection. And I tried everything including tying the cable upward and wicking oil down it. Still bounced until I pulled the cluster and even then I never could get the cluster all the way out because gm tied the tach connector to an unreachable grommet behind everything. That's a sore subject as I wrench on cars daily and spent an hour trying to get that connector and ended up lubing the cable with the cluster still attached at the tach wire. I was really, REALLY close to cutting the wire. If it ever comes apart again I probably will. It's useless anyway and I got a spare