How much boost/ HP before touching bottom end???
- Thread starter rmorrell
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Without detonation, you can go a pretty far. I would say 500hp. Let's see what Bison says. 
C
coach
Guest
I have pushed my Te62 to 29-30lbs a few times this summer and runs great. Specs are 935cfm's and 630 HP capable. Dont know what that equates to in my combo for HP, but it flies!!!
:biggrin:
:biggrin:
slimtastic
yea dude...I rock
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2002
well you basicly gotta ask yourself 2 questions
1- how long will i be running the stock block
2- how good of a tuner am i?
if your a good tuner who knows how to dance around knock and your only expecting the shortblock to live for 10/15xxx miles then id say 500-550 at the tires is realistic
1- how long will i be running the stock block
2- how good of a tuner am i?
if your a good tuner who knows how to dance around knock and your only expecting the shortblock to live for 10/15xxx miles then id say 500-550 at the tires is realistic
With untouched heads around 460-470whp with 22* advance. Enough to run 11.0-11.10.
C
coach
Guest
Several guys here have advised me over the years to...not mess with it until something goes wrong. The factory did a pretty damn good job on these little powerhouses. If you looking for a killer street car, you may start to add items like, good cat-back, ALKY, Dutt-neck cooler or other, bigger turbo and realize its pretty darn fast. If your looking to run it at the track every weekend, then do it whenever you can. If your intentionally stressing it to the max all the time, it will not live long. I have been gathering parts for another motor for a few years and I only run mine as hard as I can safely, to insure it lasts until the other engine is finished.
Listen to Bison, he knows how to make these cars go.
:biggrin:
Listen to Bison, he knows how to make these cars go.
:biggrin:
Stock Shortblock Strength
The last tear down of my engine was in the 90's and I was not aware of billet caps and girdles at that time.My engine was a stock teardown and rebuild that was balanced,rods beamed and the heavy D5 was later dumped for a precision 9.5.The shear and torsional forces applied to the crank are reduced.The engine balance will also reduce destructive vibration in the shortblock.Such changes will lengthen the life of stock shortblock along with the absence of detonation.
The last tear down of my engine was in the 90's and I was not aware of billet caps and girdles at that time.My engine was a stock teardown and rebuild that was balanced,rods beamed and the heavy D5 was later dumped for a precision 9.5.The shear and torsional forces applied to the crank are reduced.The engine balance will also reduce destructive vibration in the shortblock.Such changes will lengthen the life of stock shortblock along with the absence of detonation.
There is little advantage to balancing a stock bottom end. It comes from GM balanced. Adding steel caps will not prevent the stock crank from flexing either. Lower engine speeds and lower cylinder pressures will minimize the flex.
C
coach
Guest
Amen. KevinW25645 found that out this past winter. He got his stock crank with billet center caps to 10.8's before he called it quits for the winter. He pulled off a cap to check things out and saw the flex on the bearings. He went to a forged crank to help stop it.
:biggrin:
Engine Balance
Engine balance promotes the speed of RPM increase.It also reduces destructive harmonics in the reciprocating asm.Cast iron is weak in shear and torsion,but strong in compression.The performance endurance limit of nodular cast iron is not comparable to that of a forging,but the reduction of vibration and torsion can only extend the life of the crank.Balancing involves a small weight reduction of the reciprocating components and therefore since F=MA the shear forces on the crank are slightly reduced.The reduction of torsion (twist) (diameter & mass reduction of converter and balancer) will also prolong the life of the crank in a small way.I was not implying that balance would eliminate crank flex but a proper balance will prolong life.A rounded power pulse from a lower static compression will also help as opposed to a sharp or cusp like power pulse.Believe me I worked with the persons who were responsible for that cast crank.
Engine balance promotes the speed of RPM increase.It also reduces destructive harmonics in the reciprocating asm.Cast iron is weak in shear and torsion,but strong in compression.The performance endurance limit of nodular cast iron is not comparable to that of a forging,but the reduction of vibration and torsion can only extend the life of the crank.Balancing involves a small weight reduction of the reciprocating components and therefore since F=MA the shear forces on the crank are slightly reduced.The reduction of torsion (twist) (diameter & mass reduction of converter and balancer) will also prolong the life of the crank in a small way.I was not implying that balance would eliminate crank flex but a proper balance will prolong life.A rounded power pulse from a lower static compression will also help as opposed to a sharp or cusp like power pulse.Believe me I worked with the persons who were responsible for that cast crank.
RJ REYNOLDS
Member
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2003
I have over 300 passes on my stock engine, over half of which have been in the 11.0 range with a few 10.90s. With my weight I am right at 500 rwhp. Many people have told me that I am flirting with disaster by pushing the stock parts to the limit. The key to longevity is I always run good fuel, have a safe tune and cool down between rounds. I'm sure there is another tenth or two in the car with a bigger turbo and a more agressive tune, but I have accomplished my goal and would rather be safe than sorry.
meanchicken
gallo vicioso
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2007
Been beating the bejesus out of mine for well over 35000 miles....can't break it...I'm trying my hardest...
The crank Lou used was a cherry, untouched stock crank, stock caps. The pistons and rods are forged.
Roller cam and lifters are used parts out of his "good used parts" bin.
Ported OEM heads and port matched intake...also used parts (and refurbished) out of his "good used parts" bin.
I have never dyno'd it but I'm running around the streets with a solid and safe 11 second tune on it, buring Chevron Supreme and lots of Alky with the timing where Eric from TurboTweak sets his chip.
Best ET and mph so far is in my sig and there are definitely 10.90's left in the 60 foot and tune.:biggrin:
The crank Lou used was a cherry, untouched stock crank, stock caps. The pistons and rods are forged.
Roller cam and lifters are used parts out of his "good used parts" bin.
Ported OEM heads and port matched intake...also used parts (and refurbished) out of his "good used parts" bin.
I have never dyno'd it but I'm running around the streets with a solid and safe 11 second tune on it, buring Chevron Supreme and lots of Alky with the timing where Eric from TurboTweak sets his chip.
Best ET and mph so far is in my sig and there are definitely 10.90's left in the 60 foot and tune.:biggrin:
Those same dopes usually have a 12 sec or slower car that breaks every week. You're not pushing the stock parts to the limit either. If you were they would break. The funny thing is you often see people breaking better than stock parts making less power.
Similar threads
