Hot start problem?

[SavageATL]

So the car has had the coil pack, ignition module, computer, and plugs, along with the A/C compressor replaced in the last couple of weeks, and I am driving it to school yesterday and the car sputters and dies once, then starts back up.

Car makes a right turn, sputters, dies. It will crank, fire, and dies back.

I call AAA, and think things that are not suitable for typing to the car.

The man from the parking deck wants me to move the car into the street, so we start pushing. The car then decides to fire and continue running. But I am thinking, I do not want to have it dead at Georgia State at 9 at night, so I will still have it towed.

Car gets to the repair shop and runs and drives fine, I drove it around the block. I am thinking that it got hotter when it got to Georgia State than when it was running around the block and that caused it to die? What could be causing this? The repair guy said if the fuel pump is bad, it's just BAD and dies, and I would think it would not restart or run if it is the crank sensor.


At least I had a good excuse to miss Professional Responsibility, which I hate (insert lawyer joke) But I need this car to be running, else I am sentenced to driving a 4-cylinder minivan. :frown:

The car is dead stock btw.

 

[azbob]

Check the flows on your fuel pump, the fuel filter, and the condition of your fuel.

 

[3.8L V-8 eater]

This sounds like a similiar problem i had with my 86 GN years ago. The positive battery teriminal came loose from the clip that held it in place and only sometimes when I made either a right or left turn can't remember which, it would short out on the down pipe and shut the car off. The car would restart then at times do the same thing...Once the coating burns off the cable it's a direct short everytime it touches metal. Something worth looking into.

 

[SavageATL]

Thanks

The fuel is all new in it, will check fuel filter, and positive battery cable tomorrow.