hot block

[FatNasty231]

i recently picked up a 3.8 hot block for $20. all i need is the block and crank for my future engine build...as long as they check out good at the machine shop. my concern is i have heard you you can use a hot block as long as i have the machine shop drill,tap and machine a hole in the block for my turbo oil drain. is this possible? thanks much

 

[TexasT]

What do you mean by the term "hot block"? Is this to mean that it is a nonintercooled(hot air?)?

I believe as long as it is a "109" casting it is regarded as the strong casting. If it is not equipped it would need provisions for a turbo oil drain.

Does this answer your question?

 

[Boost231]

What do you mean by the term "hot block"? Is this to mean that it is a nonintercooled(hot air?)?

I believe as long as it is a "109" casting it is regarded as the strong casting. If it is not equipped it would need provisions for a turbo oil drain.

Does this answer your question?

if you are asking about a hotair block you can run them with no problems. like you said it just needs a hole taped into the front of it. some of them where 20 bolts some where 14bolt. you will be ok either way.

 

[blown okie]

got the block outta my '84 t. in the gn, works just fine, tapping the hole in the front of the block is simple.

 

[turbodave231]

Head bolts will be different. The threads are not burried deep in the block......rather they are right up at the top of the deck surface. You'll need different heads bolts and don't follow TTY tightening procedure.

You'll also need a 14 bolt front cover and oil pan. mid year 85 they went to 20 bolt.

 

[bison]

The deck heights and fasteners on the heads are a little different but there is no loss of strength in a pre 109 casting. 109's are not stronger than what they replaced. They are all equally weak in the caps and mains. They are not specific to an LC2 either. Every rwd 3.8 block from midyear 1985 (1986 model year) and up are 109. Go for the heaviest 3.8 block you can get your hands on.