home porting

Getsidewayz04

New Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2006
well this winter i decided to do some much needed maintenance, like mostly cleaning things up. The previous owners kept this garaged for sure but didnt use it much and didnt do much cleanup/maintenance under the hood. The valve cover looked as though they had been leaking oil from day one. dirt and crud filled the valley pan and it was just scummy looking. So i pulled the valve covers and also the intake manifold, dog house, TB, etc. I was wondering while the intake assembly is off, could I do any porting to like maybe the intake manifold, TB, or dog house/plenum that would yield some gains? just though it would be nice to get some free hp while the car was being worked on. whats the best way to accomplish this on the intake manifold itself? If I port the intake holes on the manifold and the on the head ports they line up to?
 
Dont let anyone tell you porting the intake is a waste of time. If you do it right, it will give you noticable gains. My car had never run right since I bought it. It was attributed to alot of vacuum leaks, bad, maladjusted sensors, plugs and wires and bad injectors. After I had fixed everything else, it ran way better, but something still didnt seem right. For peace of mind I yanked the intake to change the gasket. Good thing I did. The old gasket was that steel shim stock crap that only seals if all machining tolerances are perfect, and they used black RTV which is worthless and should only be used on bathtubs and sinks. I replaced it with the 1 piece fel-pro pan type gasket. I layed the gasket on the heads, and looked to see where the gasket protrudes into the intake ports. I used the dremel to trim those areas out. A sharp edge like that can destroy airflow. Then I ported the intake manifold, but focused only on the last 2 inches of runner length. The taper in the intake is so great that opening up just the end will increase the average cross sectional area of the runner a ton. I radiused all the sharp edges too, especially around the fuel injector bosses that stick into the runner. They use dull broaches to take those holes to size, and they always leave huge burrs. Burrs are terrible for flow. I left the EGR stuff in the intake...didnt remove it cause I see no advantage to taking it off. I didnt polish the runners when I was done, because I like to leave smooth dimples...a textured finish that will create a thin boundary layer with the air flow. Its like a golf ball. Those dimples create little swirling air pockets around the ball which creates a very thin layer of high pressure, turbulent air (a boundary layer), which pretty much eliminates all surface friction. Its like having no aerodynamic drag. Ive always done this with all cylinder heads and intakes and the results have always been great. This is NOT only beneficial to carb'd motors for proper air/fuel mixing. Its beneficial to all airflow in a big way. After doing all the rough and then fine shaping with the cutting burr,(and being as precise as I can with everything...alot of people leave it crappy and mis-shapen and try to smooth it out with sanding rolls), I run semi coarse scotch brite through all the runners until the wall feels smooth to the touch, but its still lumpy from the burr. This is what you want. Another thing I did was I cut some big sponges into 6 squares, soaked them in WD-40, wringed them out, and shoved them into all the head's ports. I took my die grinder and made a very small radius at all the inlets, out to the gasket line. Once again, to get rid of the sharp edge. I put it all back together with Permatex "the right stuff" (the BEST sealant to ever be made for engines), and was sure to get it all around every EGR valley on the heads, and on both sides of the gasket. When I was all done, I had lost 2-3 psi, (a sign of alot more airflow..the job worked), and even at the lower boost, I would now give it half throttle in 2nd gear and the car would spool alot quicker and tear the tires loose and I was all over the road. It never did this before.
If you prepare for the job and take your time, its definetely worth your time.
Another thing, I also lost some boost/gained airflow and power, by radiusing the inlet of the intercooler (and this is even on my Dutt neck IC), the sharp edge at the TB inlet, and sawing the rolled lips off of the up-pipe. These huge rolled lips are REALLY bad for airflow. Between all those things I lost about 3psi. So it total, thats 6psi of parasitic air losses I recovered without even porting the heads. I gained another 1 or 2 by going with a 3.5" intake tube. Open things up before the turbo, and it will spool faster and quicker, and you will gain psi, because you're flowing more air into the engine, which will increase the restriction measurement we call "boost". Open things up after the turbo, and psi will drop, because you reduced the restriction to airflow between the turbo's outlet and the cylinders.
 
If you want to attempt porting, DO try. It is NOT an easy job, though. The tools required to do a nice job are pretty expensive, but not out of reach. I would spend HOURS and WEEKS reading up on porting theories before you get started. If you are going to port the heads, then you will NEED to remove them from the car. Porting the intake manifold will never hurt performance, but how much it will gain is probably minimal IF you leave the heads stock. The stock heads can be "pocket" ported for about a 25+ hp gain. If you want to attempt a real port job, then I can guide you through the basics. It is soooooo much more than just looking at a good existing cylinder head port job. You can learn a ton by looking, and feeling with your fingers, at a good head, but it woun't tell you the REAL magic involved. Port matching the intake manifold to a factory pan gasket will be a step backwards if you leave the cylinder head stock. You can port the intake manifold to match exactly the existing head ports, and that should gain you a little. Radiusing the inlet to the throttle body, can't hurt. Polishing the inside of the manifold, can't hurt. Will it net you big gains? NO. The heads are the weak link in flow potential of the stock 3.8. Well, actually that's not completely true either. The turbo has the biggest flow gain potential. Then the entire exhaust sytem, then intercooler THEN the cylinder heads. There are plenty of guys running fast on stock long blocks. BUT they could run MUCH faster with ported heads. If you want to grind away, go for it. Read up on some of the other posts about head porting and you can make your own mid up on what way to go. Here's a picture of a "decent" ported head and intake. Try an copy them.;) Read speedtalk.com for proceedures from some of the better porting guys there are. Air flow is a science. Pretty doesn't always work the best.
 

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I tried porting heads and intake once... didn't turn out to good. For me I don't think the time/money spent vs. gain/final outcome is worth it.

Edit* I mean for someone who has not tried it before.
 
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