Help with motor cutting out during boost

Steve C

New Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2015
Im struggling with my first GN here. I installed a new MAF pipe, cone filter, plugs and wires, but otherwise car is completely stock. 53k miles. I checked TPS and have .44 idle and 4.54 WOT. Car starts and drives fine. Under boost it seems to have a rattle and cuts in and out a ton. Any ideas? i have only had the car 3 weeks and it just started doing this. Oh and it appears to have a new fuel filter as i was going to change that hoping that was it.
 
i did not have any issues until i installed new plugs, wires and MAF pipe. Although i had only driven the car a couple times since the powermaster was shot when i picked it up. Boost maybe around 8 lbs when it starts making noise and cutting out. ill have to look closer at that if i drive it soon.
 
I really hate to change the coil pack and module if i dont have too. Those seem to be pricey :)
 
i did not have any issues until i installed new plugs, wires and MAF pipe. Although i had only driven the car a couple times since the powermaster was shot when i picked it up. Boost maybe around 8 lbs when it starts making noise and cutting out. ill have to look closer at that if i drive it soon.
Just for your information, if you have any air entering after the maf, this can cause an un-metered air condition and can result in fueling problems.
Oil from the K&N can damage the maf.
On some vehicles, having the filter attached directly to the maf has caused turbulence of the air passing thru the maf and resulting in inaccurate readings, it was recommended that a four inch long pc of pipe be installed between the maf and filter.
 
Boost maybe around 8 lbs when it starts making noise and cutting out. ill have to look closer at that if i drive it soon.
Have a "real" boost gauge? If you are relying on the dash "gauge", forget it. W/o a real ga, you could be replacing head gaskets... More expensive than a coil pak, or a ga.
What's fuel psi when this happens?
U have a monitor, such as a Scanmaster? If so, post the numbers. If not, GET 1, before you drive over the crank...
 
I dont have a scanmaster ;( uggg. maybe ill just put the original air cleaner assembly and hose back on. Nor does it have a boost gauge other than the stock dash one.
 
Where are you located ? There maybe some TB members near by that can help . I reached out to a new member in my area , helped get his car squared away and made a new friend .
But , like Chuck said , get a Scanmaster so we can help you . Sam
 
South eastern Michigan. Used NGK UR4? Not home to look. Gapped to .34 Are the scanmasters hard to install myself? I took off the MAF pipe and Cone filter and put all stock stuff back on. Way better but still gett My some knock. Maybe that was it. Good suggestion and thank you
 
I would close that gap to .025"- .028" max on stock ignition . Scanmasters are very easy to install , switched power , ground , & 1 wire to ADL port at bottom of the dash by your right leg , done ! I'm not sure on UR4's ....maybe to hot ??
 
I would close that gap to .025"- .028" max on stock ignition . Scanmasters are very easy to install , switched power , ground , & 1 wire to ADL port at bottom of the dash by your right leg , done ! I'm not sure on UR4's ....maybe to hot ??
I will try to re gap plugs and let you know progress. Thank you!
 
I took off the MAF pipe and Cone filter and put all stock stuff back on. Way better but still gett My some knock.
It may have actually been the added intake air volume, that leaned the motor out, causing the knock.
CHECK the fuel psi.
 

I use this gauge, though to see if you are getting the fuel pressure rise 1:1 with boost you will need a boost gauge and a longer hose so you can tape the fp gauge to the windshield and compare the boost rise with the fp rise when you test. Never run a fuel pressure gauge into the passenger compartment. If it leaks it can have catastrophic results. Though there are kits that have an isolator for the fuel. Most mount it at the base of the windshield if you decide on a permanent mount. Too "racecar" for me.
You will attach the fp gauge hose to the fuel rail under the hood near the fpr and throttle body on the Dr side.
As above, the factory gauge is worthless, and if you don't know how much boost you have you need to stay out of it. That "rattling" you are hearing is probably detonation. The worst sound to a tb enthusiast, and if you can hear it it is retarding the timing A LOT.

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Pulled plugs, they are UR5's. Re Gapped them to .28. Didn't get a chance to take it out. Guess im going to have to start shopping for some real gauges and scanmaster. Thank you all for the good info. Ill reply when i get a chance to drive it.
 
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