Help, My drivers side emerg cable is seized on

[copo]

Guys, I took my 87 GN out tonight and smelt something burning and thought it was the car next to me at the lights. It turns out that my rear drivers side emerg cable is seized and won't release the shoes. And yes the wheel was hot. I'm going to look at it tomorrow. Will I be able to get the drum off? I'll spray the cable with rust buster and see if that frees it up if I can't remove the drum. These are still the original cables.

I'm open to any other tips....thx in advance.

 

[copo]

The side that is stuck has cracks down the middle of the shoes now on both shoes. Both rear shoes are worn down enough for a change. It's still the original Emerg cables.

I did get the drums off and need:

-rear brake kit
-wheel cyl (Grrr, I hope the brake line nut loosens at the wheel cyl or I'll need to make new rear lines.) Anyone else have problems with the originals? coming loose to replace the WCyl?
-drums turned unless their out of spec
-Emerg cables

I looked at the front brake pads and their almost at the sensors. Grrrr. I did them 4 yrs ago with new rotors.

I called up a garage and they won't even give me a quote on the rears without looking at them due to the age. Their on flat rate. No wonder.
Now I need brake tools cause I don't want to pay someone 80 something $/hr to do my rear brakes.

Any tips for replacing the rear brakes? Are the emerg cables easy to replace?
When I was under the car I didn't look at where the 2 rear lines join into a Y block. But is this going to give me a problem loosening if I need to make new lines up?

thx in advance.

 

[John Larkin]

You don't need brake tools. A medium size phillips screwdriver can be used as a fulcrum to help slide the springs back on. Vice grips are also good for grabbing springs to pull them back into position. Plan on making new brake lines; they tend to seize at the wheel cylinder. Just make sure you have a good tubing bender. Make nice OEM-style 45* & 90* bends; nothing looks worse then Bubba-bent brake lines. Coat hangers work really well as templates to design the line, then bend the tubing to match.

As for the e-brake cables, they need to be liberally oiled and worked back and forth. Shouldn't need to be replaced. Oil the armor shielding and it should seep through eventually as well as the cables themselves. PB Blaster would be my choice.

 

[copo]

I decided to save $$ and do it all myself.
The brake lines to the wheel cyl came loose easily due to getting the car rust proofed for so many yrs, but when the RH line came loose it lifted a bit at the axle and caused a leak. I guess it was touching the axle and rusted. I'll need to see if the dealer sells them prebent. If not I'll get a straight piece and match the bends and use a slit vacuum hose filled with grease to act as a rattle absorber on the axle. I think I can buy some type of spring protector to wind on the line before I mount it too.

 

[chopped39]

Classic tube.com. Get the stainless ones. they leave no contamination in system like regular steel lines do.They will sell just lines that you need.Buy cheap brake tools from auto zone.Be carfull with pliers and needle nose pliers. my buddy put an 8mm hole in his left eye using needle nose pliers doing a honda brake jobIf you have to replace cables pull bracket from shoes and remove from cable. then slide small hose clamp onto the cable untill its close to backing plate. tighten clamp just enough to to push tabs on cable down enough and then pull cable through backing plate and loosen clamp and the cable is out and undamaged.if it is frozen just replace it.napa sells them cheap. or go to rock auto.com they are way cheap good luck

 

[copo]

No brake lines avail at Classic Tube - PreBent and Custom Stainless and OE Brake Lines and more...
Check my other post on the wheel cyl. I need some pics from a manual.
thx in advance.