Headgasket quesions (uh-oh)

[3.8TransAM]

Well, I think I am safe.

Did compression test today and yanked all the plugs out and chocked the TB open. 1,3,5 were all from 175-182 2 was 167 and 4,6 were 174.

Long story short, ditched the stocker style exhaust(walked replacement) for the hooker catback(16822 fits perfect and cost less and sounds great). The test drive is where the problem occured.

Got the car hot etc etc. Ran into osme overboost She let out a nice cloud, really freaked me out as I have $$$$ in the engine. At this point I believe it was only all the crap coming out of the exhaust(oil, maching lube, grease, etc)

Anyhow, the results from compression test are above. The only weird thing was the plugs on 3 and 5 looked crappy, defintiely had some detotanation there, but it looks like i reacted quick enough to avoid any type of catastrophe.

No coolant in oil or oil in coolant and no abnormal useage.

And on a side note, what the hell do u guys do to keep the dipstick sealed on these cars? Mine leaked on the orignally engine that tested good for leakdown and comp. This one does the same and tests good. PCV is new and have a breather on the drvr valve cover. am I stuck junyaring it for another driver valve cover and putting breathers on it?

Just wondering what your guys thoughts are on this(breather situation and overboost).

later
Jeremy

 

[72firebird]

Well your compression test looks pretty good, I think the rule of thumb is as long as they're within 10% of each other they're alright. You probably got a little knock on the overboost but it pulled a lot of timing and caused it to go rich for a brief second. Of course that's just my opinion. The motor should be just fine though.

As far as the breathers a lot of people just run 2 driver valve covers from the 3.1 so they have a breather on each side. I don't really understand exactley what your problem is though.

 

[3.8TransAM]

Its kind of what I figured, gonna go for a riode and see how she does, still have to get her thru treadmill emissions too(shortened IM-240 here)

My car has done that in every configuration regardless of engine, dipstick has never been tight from day one either.

Did a litle hack job repair to see if it works before attempting a bettter seal.

And yes im planning on getting another drivr valve cover too add on as well.

later
Jeremy

 

[trading t/a]

#3 has always been my nemises. No matter what config I've had that damn #3 always gets me......

 

[3.8TransAM]

Not good :-(

Took it out and ragged on it some.

Got into the subdiision and the damn temp guage started reading 225-230 range :-(

Looks like t'row I will be tearing down the drvr side of the motor for a new head gasket dammit.

Gonna redo compression t'row and see if anything changed, no change in oil or coolant, it was just running hot as hell and both fans were on

later
Jeremy

 

[V6TA-MI]

check the operation of the cooling fans.

 

[Razor]

Stuck thermostat can also do this.

HG's will always show contamination. So either the breach is into the motor(compr says ok) or the breach is into the water jacket.. then you would be pressurizing the radiator/have water/steam out the exhuast.

If the exhuast is clean.. look elsewhere.

HTH

 

[3.8TransAM]

Both are off

About 1.5 hrs during the day to yank the intake then 6pm-9:30pm yanking everything else to bare shortblock. Job was pretty damned easy as far as head gaskets go, I was actually suprised. Way too much bs to take off the engine though lol

Appears that the leak was into the #3 and slightly into #5.

Think I lifted it and it wasnt sealing under boost, can see where the exhaust traces head right towards the water jackets(i have cometics). Also have a spot on the #3 on the head where im trying to ascertain if nick or crack between the seats, it looks like a crack at this time.

Going out today to re thread and tap everything over to make sure assembly is assured to go smoothly.

Will update when I know more

later
Jeremy

 

[89ICBM]

Also have a spot on the #3 on the head where im trying to ascertain if nick or crack between the seats, it looks like a crack at this time.

later
Jeremy


Jeremy,
Do yerself a big favor and get those heads pressure checked before you put them back on. Cracking between the valves is not uncommon. If it is a crack it can be fixed, it's pricey but it can be done. Here's the top repair shop for cast iron work just in case you might need it.
http://www.indyheads.com/, Phone: (317) 862-3724, E-mail: info@indyheads.com

 

[3.8TransAM]

Its not cracked. Just some scuff/nicks, nothing too bad even.

Checked it out today with daylite and a real lite.

10pm and no lite and working in heat all days plays tricks on your mind

All bolt holes tapped, block drained, just have to cvlean the block and head faces and starting putting the beastie back together

later
Jeremy

 

[72firebird]

So are you gunna have it back together in time to take it to the track rental? I was really hoping to see you run. I still dunno if I'll be running the heater core is giving me some trouble with going back in and doing it by myself is almost impossible. Might have to give up going to the Sprint car event tomorrow night at Joliet to get it all together.

 

[3.8TransAM]

Well, its back together as of 9:30 pm fri nite

Drove it to the track at 9 am sat

Discretion was the better part of valor and after getting some lite knock in low boost/almost boost throttle, decided to not run it and not push my luck.

No over heating, will run all day idling and cruising. First plug check was okay. No gurging into reservoir on shut off etc.

GF was behind me in my Formie and her and my neph. saw some whit emsoke when I got on it, that and laong with some knock, I decided not too puck my luck.

Had to add 3 bottle of bottled water at the track, looks like that was just air pockets bleeding out. Drove home same way I drove there and it used zero water. Now to track down what I think is an ignition issue and then verify the plugs are ok again and work from there(compression test while I do it)

later
Jeremy