Head gasket

Loswages05

Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2014
Ok so car still runs good but it has a blue smoke puff and it's getting hot on me oil looks good plugs look foul I put my stock turbo back on and it still smokes. Passed block test and all 6 is 122
 

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antifreeze smoke is white in color oil smoke blue did you pressurize the radiator ? are you losing antifreeze, thermostat open and closing proper? temperature gauge fluctuating all 6 plugs look the same if it leaks antifreeze into the cylinder that plug will be white and look brand new if it was a head gasket leaking into the cylinder it would be blowing smoke a little more than a puff, turbo smoke is most noticed at a idle when setting oil draining into exhaust there's several other things that could cause blue smoke valve guides or valve guide seals rings pcv valve sucking oil into throttle body or intake
 
antifreeze smoke is white in color oil smoke blue did you pressurize the radiator ? are you losing antifreeze, thermostat open and closing proper? temperature gauge fluctuating all 6 plugs look the same if it leaks antifreeze into the cylinder that plug will be white and look brand new if it was a head gasket leaking into the cylinder it would be blowing smoke a little more than a puff, turbo smoke is most noticed at a idle when setting oil draining into exhaust there's several other things that could cause blue smoke valve guides or valve guide seals rings pcv valve sucking oil into throttle body or intake
I put new thermostat in it and I put the stock turbo back on and still puffing blue white smoke new pvc car run hot with fan on high all the time Just did the block test and copression test passed so I think the shirt block is good
 
With the picture in your first post I would say you have a head gasket failure. Is there any water in the oil??

Bryan
 
And should I go stud kit or no I hear stud kit sucks to seal
Studs will increase the clamping force as the torque is applied differently. The problems you have heard about usually involve multi layer head gaskets like Cometics. The issue usually lies with the block and head surface preparation. Stock style gaskets will not see these issues.

Bryan
 
Studs will increase the clamping force as the torque is applied differently. The problems you have heard about usually involve multi layer head gaskets like Cometics. The issue usually lies with the block and head surface preparation. Stock style gaskets will not see these issues.

Bryan
I'm going to go with rjc gas and stud kit running stock heads
 
I've had real good luck with the felpro 9441pt 29.00 each at summit racing depending on your needs I don't run much over 25 lbs of boost,
 
After reading a lot of good info from some of our members, who replaced their head gasket with Cometics has good results, but the down sides head gasket won't blow just something else dramatically and expensive would let go.
Do some research and ask many questions to your fit your needs.
 
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But keep in mind with 9441pt style if it blows you have all of the graphite grit blown into the engine/oil system and or coolant mix.
 
Ya I been talking I'm going cometice with arp stud kit

Make sure your heads and block are prepped...
Some run Cometics dry and some run copper coat on them, you will get differing opinions. I remove the rivet and coat all layers with copper coat. When you get to a point where you can blow one of these it is catastrophic !! My meltdown in 2010 where my boost went through the roof took out the aluminum head, scorched the block, a couple of push rods and scorched a piston, also found out that the crank was bent...it was a very rapid, violent meltdown on the street. I think my new RPE stroker motor had about 75 miles on it...talk about heartbreaking !!!!!! This was not the fault of the builder and I seriously doubt that a stock style gasket would have saved much. The point I am making is that these gaskets seal extremely well but they are not a fuse that will blow

Bryan
 
Make sure your heads and block are prepped...
Some run Cometics dry and some run copper coat on them, you will get differing opinions. I remove the rivet and coat all layers with copper coat. When you get to a point where you can blow one of these it is catastrophic !! My meltdown in 2010 where my boost went through the roof took out the aluminum head, scorched the block, a couple of push rods and scorched a piston, also found out that the crank was bent...it was a very rapid, violent meltdown on the street. I think my new RPE stroker motor had about 75 miles on it...talk about heartbreaking !!!!!! This was not the fault of the builder and I seriously doubt that a stock style gasket would have saved much. The point I am making is that these gaskets seal extremely well but they are not a fuse that will blow

Bryan
Ya I understand I'm running 24 on 100 when rocker shaft gave and that's why hg went I'm going to do e85 26 psi
 
I use cometic. I install them on the manufacturers recommendation. Dry. The surfaces have to be smooth and clean. Ideally, fresh machined surfaces.
I have successfully used copper spray method too but using it eliminates the benefit of the viton coating that cometic uses for sealing.

From Cometic's website:
Why does Cometic recommend MLS gaskets to be installed dry?
Cometic Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets go on dry because they are coated with a sealant. Each MLS head gasket is coated with a .001" thick Viton rubber that is bonded to the outer stainless steel layers. Adding an additional sealer can hinder the performance of an MLS head gasket.

Like Bryan mentions, cometic head gaskets don't blow. When things go wrong somthing else will take the hit. So make sure and address the issue that blew the gasket being replaced.

Rick
 
Generally speaking yes but more important the temp should not stray too far from the the thermostats open temp.
 
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