Head gasket swap question...

Squid4life

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2004
I am swapping head gaskets since the new motor ate one...

Had a voltage question and got it fixed.
Had a Vac line issue and got it fixed.
Swapping in a 340 and hotwire, since it still had stock stuff (at least no hot wire. Haven't dropped the tank.)

I will be using the stock 84-85 steel shim head gaskets, but has anyone had any luck finding ARP bolts or studs for the 84-85 block? I was told the reg 86-87 bolts work, but they don't. I bought a set, and they do not work. Threads seems to be closer to the deck on the 85 block.

What sealer does everyone use on the threads, and where did you get it?

GM sealer tabs??? What are they? Do you get them at GM dealer? Part number???

Thanks a bunch!

Squid
 
Also, my Ron Anderson ported irons are cut for loc-wires. Is this mandatory? I read a few posts when I was originally building the motor, and some said use reg gaskets. Now since I blew a HG, I am curious.

Like I said above I fixed some issues that could have caused my knock/ping issue, which could have led to a blown HG. Hopefully after I fix the HG's everything will be good to go. (wishful thinking)

Squid
 
If the heads are cut for locwires, why not use them? The steel shims are great, make sure the heads are very flat.

ARP makes bolts for the hotairs. I believe you have to order bolts for the stage I block. I had to tell them to use two long bolts and the rest short. The kits I got had 4 long and 4 short. ARP sealer works fine.

I'm running the ARP head studs on mine and I think they're a good idea on the hotair block since our threads come right to the top of the deck. Again, I told them how many long and how many short.

If all else fails, measure how long the bolts/studs need to be and tell them. They will have whatever you need in stock.

I've never used the stock TTY headbolts on anything faster than my old 13 sec combo so I don't know how well they hold up. They come with sealer on the threads.
 
I didn't use the loc-wires because I was being cheap. I used the stock head gaskets in the gasket set. STUPID. Once I get the heads off I will look at the cutouts for the loc-wire and see how close they are to the combustion chambers. I may not be able to use the stock 85 steel shim. I am just trying to save money, but that has been costing me more lately...

Squid
 
If I run the lock wires, which ones? Summit sells two:

1007's have a 4.1 bore
1000's have a 4.020 bore

I know, or think I know, the 3.8 has a 3.800 bore, plus .030 over... right?

Squid
 
I'm running 1000s on my 4.1L and they are not locwire. I know they're plenty big for the 4.00" bore on my .035 over 4.1.
 
gasket

1000 are not wire lok----1007 are wirelok
Cool 84, I know the 1000 say they are good for up to a 4.020 bore, but if your 4.00 bore has ANY radius relief cut at the top for easier ring install ( as every block I have had does) make sure the fire ring sits squarely on the deck and not hanging over into the bore. My friend just went through this very same problem with a 4.005 bore. It would not seal.
 
Re: gasket

Originally posted by Lee Thompson
1000 are not wire lok----1007 are wirelok
Cool 84, I know the 1000 say they are good for up to a 4.020 bore, but if your 4.00 bore has ANY radius relief cut at the top for easier ring install ( as every block I have had does) make sure the fire ring sits squarely on the deck and not hanging over into the bore. My friend just went through this very same problem with a 4.005 bore. It would not seal.

That's scary. My dad's 4.1 stageII is .060 with the 1000s.
 
That's what I get for listening to summit about a 3.8 Buick. So if your heads are cut for lock wires, the 1007's ARE the gasket to use, correct? What about the 84-85 steel shim gasket even if your heads are cut for lock wires? Bad idea?

Squid
 
For anyone running 1007's (or any other head gaskets) do you cycle your new bolts? I am swapping head gaskets out to 1007's and using new ARP's, and have read about cycling the new bolts. (torque, loosen, torque, loosen, etc.)

1. Should you cycle the bolts?
2. Should you use the old head gaskets when cycling? I doubt it'll be good on the HG to cycle the torque on and off...

What do you think????

Squid
 
I've heard different opinions on retorquing bolts. I was told not to with my ARP studs. I wouldn't worry about retorquing but if you want to know, ask ARP and Felpro what they recommend. Everyone seems to have a different opinion on this.
 
please dont tell me you have all them mods on your car and you still havent upgraded to the hotwired 340 pump yet.......

maybe i misread your list of mods.
but if you have your car with a bigger cam, ported and such
with a stock fuel pump?
man that stocker is barely good enough for that stock car with that stone aged electrical system..

if this is true, no wonder you are poppin gaskets
 
Come on now, don't kick me in the onions and tell me I've got ugly kids too...

No, the hotwire and 340 are NOT installed yet. I have owned the car a very short time, I have only ~140 miles on it. Have had problems from the get go. The car supposedly "needed a tune up", but really needed the pass header welded, one of the valve guides could have fit TWO valves in it. etc, etc, etc.

I am piecing the car back together with the right parts. The guy before the guy I bought it from threw some parts at it, lied about others, and it was all jacked up. Slowly getting it squared away. Thing is, I knew NOTHING about turbo buicks until I bought the car and started wrenching.

Got the 1007's and ARP's in the mail today, so I need to get rollin'. Talk more later!

Squid
 
Alright, got the 340 in, hotwired, head gaskets swapped, poly drivers mount, etc. It was still pinging. I threw soem 110 octane in and the is NO pinging. Is this too much timing in the chip? I had it burned for 93 octane, but it hates 93. Should I have timing taken out?

Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated...

Squid
 
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