i just noticed a small crack about 3-4 inches long on the intake side of my turbo and wanted to know if anyone can let me know one of the best ways to fix it? i don't want to JB weld it, i'd rather just take it off unless it's real time consuming and crap and have it done. i doubt it can be done with the turbo on the car, it's on the top right before the pipe flares out and bolts into the turbo itself. any help is appreciated and anyone know what would make this happen, i had to drive the car the other day for awhile and went through a decent sized puddle of water so i may have gotten wet but figured since it's in the engine compartment it should be used to getting wet when it's hot or warm. the crack is on the top part of the pipe so if it can be fixed while still attached it may be an option but i was worried about sparks flying out and screwing something else up like wiring or my overflow tank which i use for alky.
hairline crack on turbo intake
- Thread starter datant69
- Start date
counterman
Member
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2006
Am I looking at this wrong, or is that the exhaust downpipe flange at the turbo? If it is, you really don't have much to worry about. Just pull the downpipe and have it rewelded to the flange if it bothers you. It may recrack again, as the factory flex joint is eliminated with the aftermarket downpipe, and the combination of crazy heat and engine movement make it hard on the flange there. Thanks, Counterman.
ok
i wasn't too sure and didn't think i was losing alot of HP but i may pull it and have it rewelded. i also thought maybe just normal wear and tear and stress. it doesn't bother me alot but just knowing it's there can. probably won't do much with it for awhile but as i said it's not something i wanted to JB weld as i'd rather it be done right then with some crazy glue.
i wasn't too sure and didn't think i was losing alot of HP but i may pull it and have it rewelded. i also thought maybe just normal wear and tear and stress. it doesn't bother me alot but just knowing it's there can. probably won't do much with it for awhile but as i said it's not something i wanted to JB weld as i'd rather it be done right then with some crazy glue.
? @ poly mounts
since i'm new to them what is a fair price used and new and are they a direct bolt on replacement to what i have? sorry for all the ?'s and i figured that if this is a stress fracture then maybe it'll happen again with time. just curious to what options i may have. i'm sure the cheap way out would be to pull the part and have it rewelded but i still would be interested in other options in case i want to upgrade to poly, and they are lighter, not alot but from the sound it would probably be lighter and better material i'm assuming?
since i'm new to them what is a fair price used and new and are they a direct bolt on replacement to what i have? sorry for all the ?'s and i figured that if this is a stress fracture then maybe it'll happen again with time. just curious to what options i may have. i'm sure the cheap way out would be to pull the part and have it rewelded but i still would be interested in other options in case i want to upgrade to poly, and they are lighter, not alot but from the sound it would probably be lighter and better material i'm assuming?
Full Throttle lists the motor mounts for $269.00 and the trans mount for $79.00. The motor mounts are bolt in, the trans mount needs a bit of grinding but is pretty easy to install. Weight is what you get, its strength. If you aren’t running big hp new oem trans mounts is probably all you need.
If you stop the engine torque movement a weld repair will probably hold.
DailyDrifter
The Slow and the Curious
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2007
I would get the pipe re-welded and get a set of H&R poly mounts. Also check and see if your exhaust hanger is still in one peice under the car (the one that attaches to the trans cross member)
figures
with it being sunday i'll have to wait for a few days and take it to a muffler shop and have them put it on a lift and check the hanger. if the hanger is there then i'm guessing the motor mounts may be needing to be replaced if the motor torques alot. i'm wouldn't consider the car to be big HP from what i've been told without a dyno test it's @ 450ish to 500.
with it being sunday i'll have to wait for a few days and take it to a muffler shop and have them put it on a lift and check the hanger. if the hanger is there then i'm guessing the motor mounts may be needing to be replaced if the motor torques alot. i'm wouldn't consider the car to be big HP from what i've been told without a dyno test it's @ 450ish to 500.
DailyDrifter
The Slow and the Curious
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2007
You can crawl under the car and take a look. The rubber strap might be broken.
with it being sunday i'll have to wait for a few days and take it to a muffler shop and have them put it on a lift and check the hanger. if the hanger is there then i'm guessing the motor mounts may be needing to be replaced if the motor torques alot. i'm wouldn't consider the car to be big HP from what i've been told without a dyno test it's @ 450ish to 500.
That's almost double OEM. Get the poly mounts.
checked it
got my muffler guy who can get it rewelded, i was checking it out alittle today and i know the car lightly scrapes on the concrete due to our drvie way which is a large hill then comes in and flatens out. so will probably run it closer to the car with some hangers as it was pushing up on the pipe around the cutout that is attached to the turbo.
got my muffler guy who can get it rewelded, i was checking it out alittle today and i know the car lightly scrapes on the concrete due to our drvie way which is a large hill then comes in and flatens out. so will probably run it closer to the car with some hangers as it was pushing up on the pipe around the cutout that is attached to the turbo.
