h&r rear swaybar question
- Thread starter leprcon
- Start date
I have one but have not been able to install it due to interference with the dual 3" tailpipes. For some reason, my cat-back exhaust sits to one side of the car which throws off the tailpipes.
I think the heim joints are for adjusting the preload from one side of the car to the other to get a straight launch.
Conrad
I think the heim joints are for adjusting the preload from one side of the car to the other to get a straight launch.
Conrad
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
Get the instructions and they explain how to adjust the swaybar eventually for a nice perfect launch
I had one on my daily driver, it really made the car handle the corners well too
BW
toofastforyou
2FAST4U
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I think that the linkages have something to do with the car leaving "straight" off the line or not. If it does leaves straight, the preload should probably be equal or no preload at all (not sure which is better though...:frown: ) If the car leaves higher on one side than the other, then I think you put more preload on the opposite side to which it leaves higher...or is it the same side..?? Maybe someone from H&R could answer this...?...:redface:
thanks,
Claude.:smile:
Maybe someone from H&R could answer this...?...:redface: thanks,
Claude.:smile:
chasmat2316
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2006
What exhaust do you have?
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
I miss my HR bar, this ATR bar just doesnt cut it for tight corners if your wanting to lean on it a little bit
BW
I miss my HR bar, this ATR bar just doesnt cut it for tight corners if your wanting to lean on it a little bit
BW
X2 There is no comparison between the 2. The HR bar is well worth the extra $$$$$.
HRpartsNstuff
Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
I usually don't have time to get on TB.com like I used too, really miss it!!!!!!
Been WAY too busy & was just on here looking for something else tonight & saw this thread. Working on new ideas, keeping up with orders, trying to finish our new building to get more efficient, and also hurt my back in early Dec & still getting over that slooooooowly. Falling apart as I get older
Basically, the rod ends are on there for 2 main reasons.
1) They can be adjusted to be able to actually GET a neutral preload set on every car. Most have been raced & tweaked on so much that the links need to be slightly different lengths from car to car to get the same neutral setting. Different shocks, tires, frame twists, etc, etc, etc, make this difference from car to car more noticeable.
Plus, we are the only ones that I know of that take the extra step & heat-treat the swaybars after bending. That helps them work MUCH more like a spring, and return 100% to their original shape. Without heat treating, they can be bent around by your car just as they were when into shape from a straight bar. The Chromoly materials that everyone like to "brag" about comes in many different "conditions" that change their strength properties dramatically! But with the increased qualities we get from heat treating, they all change shape ever so slightly as the stress is relieved and the hardness is increased. It's always different depending on the grain of the material, so 10 new bars that are basically the same & will work the same, may need slightly different length links to get to a neutral setting. It's all minor differences and would probably never be noticed, but I am a perfectionist as many know, even if some use a different term for it
2) On the faster cars (mid 10's & quicker), the adjustable links allow the ability to add preload. That would be lengthening the pass side link, putting additional pressure on that side, similar to what pumping up the pass airbag would do. Most racers tell us that a little bit goes a long way, and never need much more than 2-3 turns longer when going low 8's. If some "think" they have more or less than that, it can easily be different because they may not have been on exactly level ground when set to zero. Tire pressures being the same side to side make a difference too. If that's off, then the initial setting on the bar will be off too.
The good news is our bar is VERY forgiving & usually works extremely well even if off a little on install, from the setting all the way to bracket locations etc. Most don't need any preload at all on street/strip cars. If you get too much preload at lower power levels, the car will not go straight down the track, and won't handle the same turning left or right. It is still WAY better than stock or most anything available out there even if off a little, kinda splitting hairs here trying to make it perfect.
When launching, it is so strong and effective that it works better than 30 psi in the pass bag just from the start, without jacking the car out of shape or making it drive to the side after the launch. With only about a half turn of the hex link, it would give you about what a 10 psi or so change would have done in the bag.
Some keep the bags in there too, and set at a min 2-5 psi each (equal side to side). That helps "stiffen" up the rear suspension if you don't have good adj shocks yet, or need a quick "tweak" from track to track. Keep in mind, if you make ANY major changes in air bag pressures or tire pressures, ESPECIALLY different from side to side, you MUST reset the swaybar or it could be fighting against what you just changed. Example, if you were to just add 3 psi in pass side bag only (not recommended) with no change to the swaybar, then the bag is lifting the body off the rearend, and now the swaybar is trying to pull it back down (with "old" neutral setting). If you get things off too far or something doesn't seem right, it's usually best to go back to level ground, set stuff evenly, and start there with neutral setting again. Faster cars can add a turn or 2 from that & just be SAFE until you have YOUR car going smooth & straight down the track. Even seen new slicks that were slightly different diameters that change how straight the car goes. Some can "fix" this with preload, but best to get a better set of slicks that match, especially with a spool.
PS- We have fit ALL exhaust systems as far as we know. If yours seems to be an issue, PLEASE email me a picture & I will try to solve it for you. In about 5% or less of the installs, we need to mount the axle brackets at a different spacing to clear the exhaust. You can move the brackets as close together as possible (opposite instructions) into the inner bends on the bar if that helps. It makes it a little less effective (in theory), but barely noticeable. If you need something in-between narrow & wide, we have bolt on collars that will keep the bar in place & won't let it shift side to side. If it shifts around like that, it takes away from the handling. Just don't point the exhaust right at the poly brackets, the intense heat will melt them for sure, especially at 20+ psi boost
Keep in mind, I answer ALL tech emails I receive, as timely as I can. Sometimes it is a minute later, sometimes 2-3 days later. Just depends on what's going on here. Always glad to help customers & anyone interested in our products!
Been WAY too busy & was just on here looking for something else tonight & saw this thread. Working on new ideas, keeping up with orders, trying to finish our new building to get more efficient, and also hurt my back in early Dec & still getting over that slooooooowly. Falling apart as I get older
Basically, the rod ends are on there for 2 main reasons.
1) They can be adjusted to be able to actually GET a neutral preload set on every car. Most have been raced & tweaked on so much that the links need to be slightly different lengths from car to car to get the same neutral setting. Different shocks, tires, frame twists, etc, etc, etc, make this difference from car to car more noticeable.
Plus, we are the only ones that I know of that take the extra step & heat-treat the swaybars after bending. That helps them work MUCH more like a spring, and return 100% to their original shape. Without heat treating, they can be bent around by your car just as they were when into shape from a straight bar. The Chromoly materials that everyone like to "brag" about comes in many different "conditions" that change their strength properties dramatically! But with the increased qualities we get from heat treating, they all change shape ever so slightly as the stress is relieved and the hardness is increased. It's always different depending on the grain of the material, so 10 new bars that are basically the same & will work the same, may need slightly different length links to get to a neutral setting. It's all minor differences and would probably never be noticed, but I am a perfectionist as many know, even if some use a different term for it
2) On the faster cars (mid 10's & quicker), the adjustable links allow the ability to add preload. That would be lengthening the pass side link, putting additional pressure on that side, similar to what pumping up the pass airbag would do. Most racers tell us that a little bit goes a long way, and never need much more than 2-3 turns longer when going low 8's. If some "think" they have more or less than that, it can easily be different because they may not have been on exactly level ground when set to zero. Tire pressures being the same side to side make a difference too. If that's off, then the initial setting on the bar will be off too.
The good news is our bar is VERY forgiving & usually works extremely well even if off a little on install, from the setting all the way to bracket locations etc. Most don't need any preload at all on street/strip cars. If you get too much preload at lower power levels, the car will not go straight down the track, and won't handle the same turning left or right. It is still WAY better than stock or most anything available out there even if off a little, kinda splitting hairs here trying to make it perfect.
When launching, it is so strong and effective that it works better than 30 psi in the pass bag just from the start, without jacking the car out of shape or making it drive to the side after the launch. With only about a half turn of the hex link, it would give you about what a 10 psi or so change would have done in the bag.
Some keep the bags in there too, and set at a min 2-5 psi each (equal side to side). That helps "stiffen" up the rear suspension if you don't have good adj shocks yet, or need a quick "tweak" from track to track. Keep in mind, if you make ANY major changes in air bag pressures or tire pressures, ESPECIALLY different from side to side, you MUST reset the swaybar or it could be fighting against what you just changed. Example, if you were to just add 3 psi in pass side bag only (not recommended) with no change to the swaybar, then the bag is lifting the body off the rearend, and now the swaybar is trying to pull it back down (with "old" neutral setting). If you get things off too far or something doesn't seem right, it's usually best to go back to level ground, set stuff evenly, and start there with neutral setting again. Faster cars can add a turn or 2 from that & just be SAFE until you have YOUR car going smooth & straight down the track. Even seen new slicks that were slightly different diameters that change how straight the car goes. Some can "fix" this with preload, but best to get a better set of slicks that match, especially with a spool.
PS- We have fit ALL exhaust systems as far as we know. If yours seems to be an issue, PLEASE email me a picture & I will try to solve it for you. In about 5% or less of the installs, we need to mount the axle brackets at a different spacing to clear the exhaust. You can move the brackets as close together as possible (opposite instructions) into the inner bends on the bar if that helps. It makes it a little less effective (in theory), but barely noticeable. If you need something in-between narrow & wide, we have bolt on collars that will keep the bar in place & won't let it shift side to side. If it shifts around like that, it takes away from the handling. Just don't point the exhaust right at the poly brackets, the intense heat will melt them for sure, especially at 20+ psi boost
Keep in mind, I answer ALL tech emails I receive, as timely as I can. Sometimes it is a minute later, sometimes 2-3 days later. Just depends on what's going on here. Always glad to help customers & anyone interested in our products!
