Granddaddy of no start issues? Experts please come inside...

It"s alive!!!!!

I am happy to report that the car is running.

I am profusely grateful to our "local guru" Mr. Wilson who stopped by today and helped me to get the old beast running.:D

Here's a break down of what we did:

Checked coilpack and ignition module- they were good
Checked plug wires- they were good
Swapped in some new plugs with a tighter gap - old ones were starting to get fouled
Pulled cam sensor and re-installed new one- old one had a little bit of play. NOTE: after swapping and re-setting it still exhibited the same no-start symptoms.
We drained some fuel to check for water- looked ok but he recommended new fuel
We swapped in a different MAF

Eventually, as I tried to crank engine (one of the many times), and he grabbed the throttle and it rumbled to life! We let her run for a while and she seemed to "clear out" a bit..... Coolant temp was stuck at 57-64*- opened the radiator and there wasn't much water so we filled it and the temp came up to normal. IAC seems to be possibly "gummed up" as it's formerly regular low numbers were all over the place. Adjustments to the IAC and TPS yielded the same results....

We're wondering if maybe by virtue of having the car sit so long that maybe the IAC became a little dirty and has been sticking maybe causing an issue with the no-start.

Car has been running for the past few hours with intervals of being turned off and turned on just to make sure.... I will let her cool down and try again tomorrow morning to confirm that we're good to go...

At this point, I think our results are inconclusive... We cannot seem to pinpoint a specific smoking gun. However, all the numbers (besides the wonky IAC), seem to within the proper range and the car ran as smooth as ever....

Thanks again to Mr. Wilson!!!:cool::cool::cool:

Also, many thanks to all the folks who took the time to post and try to help me out!!! This site rocks.
 
while its running, wiggle the harnesses that lead to all the various harnesses and sensors. Just in case it has an intermittent connection somewhere.

Bob
 
I had the car fired up over the weekend and ran through the "wiggle" test to make sure... Everything was right on track. I'm going to swap out the old fuel and put if a few gallons of fresh 93 octane. I've also discovered a possible issue with the fuel gauge (wonky sending unit?- not sure) Need to drain the fuel tank first...

Other than that, I really don't know why she was uncooperative.... My scanmaster is reading my Block Learn at 116 (instead of the usual 128)--- When we started it, it was around 111... Not too versed on all the particulars of the BL and I have not yet started researching the reasons. Could this be part of the problem?
 
A low BL means the ECM is "pulling" out fuel over what is programmed in the chip. I think most people have the opposite issue.... too high a BLM.

In your case, I would check:

1.) Coolant temp sensor - does the reading on the SM agree with your intuition (i.e. make sense for how long the car has been running?) If the car had been idling for 20 min and the coolant temp sensor said the coolant was 46 deg...... then that might cause a low BLM

2.) Inlet air temp - If it is reading much colder than it really is..... it might cause a low BLM

I can't think of anything else right off the top of my head....... but that might be a start....
 
Initially, the collant reading was low 57* slowly creeping to 67 degrees with the car having run for a few minutes... When we opened the radiator, and discovered low coolant, it seemed as there was some sort of "air lock" (If that is the right term)... All of a sudden the temp came up to about 200* before we put more water in.... After the water was in the car settled at it's usual 165* and the fan kicked on as needed. So, I would rule out the coolant temp sensor.

Also, the car is inside the climate controlled garage and was breathing relatively warmish air (60* or so?) Using stock airbox and filter. Not sure how it could read colder.
 
If the IAT sensor was malfunctioning.... it might be showing 20 deg air..... it is up to you to determine if the sensor readings seem to be what they should be to help rule out certain areas.

One more thing.... I wouldn't be too concerned about the BLM's if you haven't driven the car for 20 min or so. With all the hooking and unhooking the battery..... it has to re-learn everything.... and without driving it.... it just can't do that adequately IMHO.
 
I plan on taking the car out next week as long as the weather holds up. She is due for a "leg stretching" session.;)

I'll keep an eye on the sensors and post up if there are any new "discoveries".
 
Lost track of this thread back in October and was curious how it is running now?

Sounds like you have it somewhat straightened out now!:)
 
Rubicon 327: All is well. I think whatever we did, got her back on track. Absolutely zero issues, perfect temps, no leaks, no KR . Starts and idles beautifully, runs like a scalded cat and feels even more "solid" on the road than my other garage queen. :eek:
 
Rubicon 327: All is well. I think whatever we did, got her back on track. Absolutely zero issues, perfect temps, no leaks, no KR . Starts and idles beautifully, runs like a scalded cat and feels even more "solid" on the road than my other garage queen. :eek:


Boy, this one seemed to have everyone stumped........glad to hear she's back up and running like she should be!
 
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