Going from stock MAF setup to T+, what all do I need?

[Crazy D]

Ok, I'd like to get a total Translator Plus setup on my 87 GN. Everything in that area is stock right now. Of course I'll need to get the T+, Extender Chip, and an LS1 MAF. Anything else? Like a 3.5" housing ($119?!?!) for the new MAF, an adapter hose?

Also, when I call to have the chip burned, can I just say: I have an 87 GN with 009 and a 2800 stall that runs 92 octane on the street and 114 at the track. Oh, and it sucks at launching. Burn me a chip that goes from street to street race to track. End.

Lastly, is there any cheaper way around buying all these parts from Ramchargers? This just comes to quite a pretty penny. I see that nobody ever sells these used, and dozens of people want them.

 

[salvageV6]

The LS1 MAF comes with the aluminum housing that's for upgrading others I guess. No need for it.

You do need the transition bump hose to adapt to 3" pipe if you have one.

I'd call and ask for Mike Licht although I buy on line excepting for chip stuff.

They should ask you for the combo. info. over the phone.

The reason for no discounts and no used parts sales are kinda the same once you buy one you hold onto it like they are gold.

 

[OKTurbo]

Check out this old post for some answers...

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=70242

John

 

[Crazy D]

So if I have the old DOS Tlink, I want to get a chip w/ "Z" datastream, correct?

I was thinking I'd just leave the T+ box in the engine compartment, is there a good reason to spend the money for the extenders and put it in the glove box?

I do have a 3" solid MAF pipe, so I'm thinking I need to get the T+, an extender chip, an LS1 MAF, and a 3" to 3.5" adapter hose (which I can't find on ramchargers, or is it just this small blue thing)? Would getting a PORTED LS1 MAF make any difference either way?

 

[Hawaiian Turbo]

I used rubber couplings from Home Depot for the 3 to 3.5 hoses. It's a tight fit for the MAF and a little loose for the 3, but you can't tell if you put the excess on the bottom. It was $3.00. I bought two extenders to locate it in the car, but decided to leave it in engine compartment. I put it in a plastic bag under my air filter. I didn't want to make a big hole to fit the connectors through the firewall.

HTH,
Paul

 

[salvageV6]

I put mine inside since it would be like putting your ECM under the hood. Not a good idea for me. I have enough water inside the car let alone under the hood.

Already had a 1 1/8" hole in the firewall another dilemma solved for me.

Ramchargers has the bump hoses on their site for sure.

Blue, nice, transition hoses about $22 or so.

No need for a ported LS1 the stock LS1 should flow enough for 10's from the flow numbers published a few years ago.

 

[OKTurbo]

Crazy D....yeah you'll want either the stock data stream or "Z"

I mounted the Trans+ box behind the glove box. If I open the glove box and pull the metal tab to let it flop down the Trans+ box is mounted on the back side so I can make any adjustments.

I think it it definately worth it....keeps it out of the weather. You'll need 2 of the MAF extensions. You can get to the timing wire right there by the computer...so you don't need the timing extension.

I ran the wires through the same grommet as the speedo cable. I did have to cut the wires and re-solder since the connectors wouldn't go through....and I wasn't clever enough to know how to take them apart.

Just use a standard LS1 MAF....more than enough flow.

John

 

[FromaBuick6]

Just for what it's worth

You do have other options for your MAF sensor. Mine is off of a Buick Roadmaster. It's the same as the LT-1 sensor on the Impala SS, 3" diameter hooks right up. I got it from a local salvage yard for $35.00 with a 30 day warranty. The big 3.5" MAF is fine but according to Ramchargers either will work. - T

 

[Roger]

If you want to install the T+ inside the car (like mine) you'll also need 2 each extender cables for the maf. You can splice into the white timing wire at the ECM instead of at the coil module.
I chose the 3" MAF for 3 reasons: 1. it was a simple r&r of the MAF. 2. The LT1 flows more than the original MAF. 3. If I need more flow, I can always move the MAF to the up pipe & more than double its flow.

 

[Crazy D]

I'm bringing this back up because I have some questions about programming the chip and didn't want to make another thread if I didn't have to. This is what I need to tell them to get a custom extender chip as I understand it:

Datastream - I use old DOS Tlink, so I want "Z"
Injectors - "J" for 009
Octane - I run 92ish on the street, 114 at the track (unless I get alky?). So Do I tell them 92 or something inbetween? Or is it "X" because I'm getting the T+ and will adjust my timing?
Wastegate - I'm clueless here as well. I have a homemade adj. wastegate. I run the usual low boost on the street, but run damn near 25 at the track. What option do I go with here?
Idle/Rev Limit - I have a 2800 stall, and everything else is stock except for a a shift kit. Which do I want to go with?
Theft Prevention - Could someone PM me with what the anti-theft measure is (what you have to do to start the car)?

Anything else I'm gonna need to specify?

 

[OKTurbo]

Crazy D...

If you're running a Trans+ w/ extender I would select "98 octane(23/21)"...number 5... 23 degrees base w. 21 deg at WOT.

You'll have plus 14 to minus 14 degrees on your base timing setting with the Trans + box. This will allow you to pick any timing you'll want in the entire range. Just take about 4 degrees retard on your base and VOILA it's a street chip. Go to the track...turn up the base timing and VOILA it's a race chip. Gotta Love It!

As far as the WG duty on the solenoid....I run a BstC so it doesn't really matter on mine. If you're able to get 25 psi with a regular street chip then just go with the 85/80% (~16 psi). If you really have to put the turns on the WG actuator to get the 25 psi with your standard street chip then go ahead and get one a little higher....say 95/90.

Idle/Rev Limit .... just go with option A 750/5800 stock cam

The anti-theft sequence is "similar" to others that have been done in the past EXCEPT with the Extender chip you can turn it OFF. I leave my anti-theft off when I'm driving it to work...we have a secure parking lot, but if I drive it to town I will turn it back on. Very easy to do. You even have a valet mode that limits WOT and boost (like you really let anyone else drive it...HA!)

I don't feel comfortable letting out the "secret" to the anti-theft, even in a PM. It's very easy to do....plus you can turn it off (convenience mode)

Good Luck...

John

 

[Crazy D]

Thank you for the reply, that helps a lot.

Ok, I'm gettin ready to order it all up. Before I do, does anyone know if there's any "big" upgrades right around the corner? I can order it tomorrow, or I can order it in two months, the car's not going anywhere quite yet. Or I can wait even longer if something truly revolutionary is on the way?

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by Crazy D
Thank you for the reply, that helps a lot.

Ok, I'm gettin ready to order it all up. Before I do, does anyone know if there's any "big" upgrades right around the corner? I can order it tomorrow, or I can order it in two months, the car's not going anywhere quite yet. Or I can wait even longer if something truly revolutionary is on the way?

Sounds like OkTurbo and CrazyD gave you all the insight you'll need to make an informaed decision.
Just got back in town so I missed this latest thread update
One recommendation I would have would be to upgrade your TurboLink to a newer version that is compatible with the high speed data stream. Not that it makes a HUGE difference, but more data is always better, especially at the track.

Here's the way my Extender is set up:

High speed data stream(W)
MSD50's(L)
Octane 98 (5) (timing 23/21)
wastegate (7) 100% (because I use the Boost Command for boost control)
idle/revlimit/shiftlight (B)
anti theft + convenience

It's all a matter of personal preference + your setup I guess. I just keep the timing turned back for the street, and then crank it and the boost up at the track. And of course the Trans+ and Extender take care of any fueling adjustments needed (no more tweaking the fuel pressure, etc.).