When Dennis Kirban announced that Richard Clark was constructing a custom fitted stainless exhaust system for the GNX, I jumped at the opportunity to replace my aging system. Although it was in passable condition, one important goal was its preservation and another was replacement with a properly designed stainless system. As this new exhaust system satisfied those goals, it was immediately ordered and installed.
The first impression was that the construction of the system (both materials and fit) is superb (check out the smooth bends in the pipes-see pictures). Working with the assistance of a friend (both of us are amateur mechanics) and the periodic supervision of his son (Steve) who has operated this auto shop for the past fifteen years, it took us about 6 hours to install (note: as he gave me the use of one lift for the entire afternoon, I took my time). The installation instructions were clear and explicit (with detailed pictures) and all necessary parts were provided. The final product looks and sounds exactly like the original and I am quite pleased with the results. Unlike the originals, the mufflers are highly polished chrome. The exhaust exits exactly like OEM. With regard to time, I would think that an experienced mechanic would be able to knock it out in about one hours or less. However, if you follow the directions, it really is so easy that even a caveman can do it.
The installation was smooth but being the person that likes to make alterations, I want to add a few comments about some issues and modification I created.
1. It was important to me to save the OEM exhaust system. With heat and twisting, it came apart at the Y pipe and muffler connection. However, removal (muffler and tailpipe) required us to disconnect the rear frame brace and panhard rod. While this also facilitated the installation of the new left side tail pipe, I did not anticipate that the bracket holding those braces would move inward so it was a little challenging getting the panhard rod bolts reinserted. Carefully separating the original exhaust and removing and reinstalling the rear braces took us two hours. Upon removal of the OEM exhaust I was surprised at the rust that came out of the tail pipes and rattling in the mufflers...probably on its last legs.
2. Although muffler clamps were used on the OEM system and provided for the replacement system, several people remarked that stainless steel band clamps would be preferable. Steve (our mechanic and resident sage) addressed this. Apparently there are three types…..butt, lap and single strap. However, Steve pointed out that because of immediate turns in connecting pipes to the muffler, the butt and lap types could not be used. The single strap type would require cutting slots in the pipe which he did not want to do. Thus we used the provided stainless clamps.
3. We did deviate from drilling and tapping of a hanger into a cross brace at the front of the muffler by installing “360 swivel” hangers at the rear of the muffler (there were holes above that location into which were inserted bolts to connect to the hanger so no drilling was necessary).
4. Fit is critical and when everything was lined up we put stands under each side of the rear axle to lift the rear to normal ride height to check clearance. This brought Steve running over screaming that we were about to force the car off the lift. Keep in mind that we were using a two post lift that is used in every garage (and this type of lift is necessary to drop the rear and provide space to insert the tail pipes). Neither my friend nor I had bothered to read the warnings pictured on the lift posts and according to these warning pictures, the front of the car should also have been supported (I imagine this is one of the reasons why the installation instructions for this exhaust system recommend that installation be performed by an experienced mechanic). Subsequently I learned that it is recommended for this part of the operation that you use a four post lift or one that raise the vehicle by the wheels. However, not having either and tolerances of the mufflers to the floor pans/frame being close, I took liberties and made sure there was sufficient clearance. Unfortunately, numerous people commented that the system was about two inches too low so it was back on the lift playing with the hangers to raise it. That took me at least one to two hours adjusting the hangers, making sure of clearances and to retighten the system.
5. Once all pipes were in position, it was time to crimp the pipes on the muffler. Rather than use the stainless clamps for that purpose, Steve recommended that they be first crimped with steel clamps and then replaced with the stainless ones. It is recommended that anti-seize be used on the stainless clamp bolts (and these be tightened only by use of a ratchet) especially if you ever want to adjust the system in the future as was my situation. I did not need to tack weld the pipes because the clamps are holding the system extremely stiff.
The exhaust is shipped from NC so if you are in the Phila. area or attend Dennis's events as well as local shows and want to see the system, send me a PM. You may also want to check with Dennis to see if he has a PDF of the instructions to send you so you can get an idea of the installation. Baring my screwing around, it really is a straight forward and simple installation if you know what you are doing.
I have attached some pictures illustrating the smooth bends in the pipes, that they exit with the OEM design and location and an overall view.
The first impression was that the construction of the system (both materials and fit) is superb (check out the smooth bends in the pipes-see pictures). Working with the assistance of a friend (both of us are amateur mechanics) and the periodic supervision of his son (Steve) who has operated this auto shop for the past fifteen years, it took us about 6 hours to install (note: as he gave me the use of one lift for the entire afternoon, I took my time). The installation instructions were clear and explicit (with detailed pictures) and all necessary parts were provided. The final product looks and sounds exactly like the original and I am quite pleased with the results. Unlike the originals, the mufflers are highly polished chrome. The exhaust exits exactly like OEM. With regard to time, I would think that an experienced mechanic would be able to knock it out in about one hours or less. However, if you follow the directions, it really is so easy that even a caveman can do it.
The installation was smooth but being the person that likes to make alterations, I want to add a few comments about some issues and modification I created.
1. It was important to me to save the OEM exhaust system. With heat and twisting, it came apart at the Y pipe and muffler connection. However, removal (muffler and tailpipe) required us to disconnect the rear frame brace and panhard rod. While this also facilitated the installation of the new left side tail pipe, I did not anticipate that the bracket holding those braces would move inward so it was a little challenging getting the panhard rod bolts reinserted. Carefully separating the original exhaust and removing and reinstalling the rear braces took us two hours. Upon removal of the OEM exhaust I was surprised at the rust that came out of the tail pipes and rattling in the mufflers...probably on its last legs.
2. Although muffler clamps were used on the OEM system and provided for the replacement system, several people remarked that stainless steel band clamps would be preferable. Steve (our mechanic and resident sage) addressed this. Apparently there are three types…..butt, lap and single strap. However, Steve pointed out that because of immediate turns in connecting pipes to the muffler, the butt and lap types could not be used. The single strap type would require cutting slots in the pipe which he did not want to do. Thus we used the provided stainless clamps.
3. We did deviate from drilling and tapping of a hanger into a cross brace at the front of the muffler by installing “360 swivel” hangers at the rear of the muffler (there were holes above that location into which were inserted bolts to connect to the hanger so no drilling was necessary).
4. Fit is critical and when everything was lined up we put stands under each side of the rear axle to lift the rear to normal ride height to check clearance. This brought Steve running over screaming that we were about to force the car off the lift. Keep in mind that we were using a two post lift that is used in every garage (and this type of lift is necessary to drop the rear and provide space to insert the tail pipes). Neither my friend nor I had bothered to read the warnings pictured on the lift posts and according to these warning pictures, the front of the car should also have been supported (I imagine this is one of the reasons why the installation instructions for this exhaust system recommend that installation be performed by an experienced mechanic). Subsequently I learned that it is recommended for this part of the operation that you use a four post lift or one that raise the vehicle by the wheels. However, not having either and tolerances of the mufflers to the floor pans/frame being close, I took liberties and made sure there was sufficient clearance. Unfortunately, numerous people commented that the system was about two inches too low so it was back on the lift playing with the hangers to raise it. That took me at least one to two hours adjusting the hangers, making sure of clearances and to retighten the system.
5. Once all pipes were in position, it was time to crimp the pipes on the muffler. Rather than use the stainless clamps for that purpose, Steve recommended that they be first crimped with steel clamps and then replaced with the stainless ones. It is recommended that anti-seize be used on the stainless clamp bolts (and these be tightened only by use of a ratchet) especially if you ever want to adjust the system in the future as was my situation. I did not need to tack weld the pipes because the clamps are holding the system extremely stiff.
The exhaust is shipped from NC so if you are in the Phila. area or attend Dennis's events as well as local shows and want to see the system, send me a PM. You may also want to check with Dennis to see if he has a PDF of the instructions to send you so you can get an idea of the installation. Baring my screwing around, it really is a straight forward and simple installation if you know what you are doing.
I have attached some pictures illustrating the smooth bends in the pipes, that they exit with the OEM design and location and an overall view.
