GN1R Heads?

Originally posted by TT276stg2
Justin-
Are those Isky lifters? If so what rev kit are you running? And do you know the spring rate by chance? Thanks for any info you can give me.
jay

Pics are from dissasembly of a BuschNorth motor I picked up. Those are just heads I pulled off the motor, I'm not using them, the lifters, or the rev kit.

Dont know what kind of lifters other then that they're solid roller and the lifters are offset. Its all sitting in a box now.
 
Its nice to hear theyve beefed them up to combat the cracking problems,if anyone has had any problems with the new GN1Rs cracking let us know! also can ANYONE relate the price difference compared to the standard GN1s.whats a set of GN1Rs costing you guys?
 
Re: GN 1Rzzz

Originally posted by Chuck Leeper
Art and folks, The "R" heads were not available til just recently, from what I know anyway.

I may be off a bit on when I got mine, but I do recall hearing of a few R sets floating around not long after. Anyway, I'll "go for the flow" when the time comes and have the updated casting to boot. For now, I'll try to figure out other ways to slice off a tenth :)

I have backed off on torque, using less than you quoted. Trying to keep EGTs under control too although there have been moments. I'm not sure what outrageous boost correlates to, I guess I missed the memo ;)

LikeMy6: You should call Tom and ask for R pricing. I recently asked a vender friend to ask the next time he needed to call Champion and he did. I forget the quote (doh), but if there was a difference in pricing for R vs. non-R for the base head, it was very small.

Art
 
I got a quote a few months back on the "R" heads and it was about the same as the regular GN1's I have (around $2800 - $2900 complete w/ CNC port job). The only real difference I noticed was the CNC job went up $50 a head from the last set I bought.
 
GN

I also had problems with my GN heads cracking twice. Both times I was running 21 lbs. boost,EGT 1575,118 Unocal. The first time it occured at approx 126 mph and I almost lost the car into the guard rail ( using Evans coolant ) and after welding which took 5 weeks, they cracked again! Now another 6 weeks have gone by and I still do not have the replacement heads ( my orginal heads were scraped out and I am out $1000 porting. By the way Morgan engineering got the heads to flow 248.4 intake and 223.1 exhaust @.500. 28 inches water) I called Champion and either I get different stories concerning shippment or Tom will call me back which has never happened in over 35 times that it was promised. Needless to say I have had better years. I have found that in my business that honesty goes a long way. I am tired of hearing that cracking is the exception not the norm or my heads are in the mail and you can hold your resverations for Buicks at Vegas on Nov.10. or I am finishing up some projects and will call you back!
Jeff
 
I thought all the new Champion heads were beefed up with a thicker outer casting the first of this year. I received a set early this year that I ordered in late November when I learned of them making changes to combat the cracking problems. I thought all of the heads were thicker as of this change early 2001, mine were. The "R" heads were not advertised and were only known to a few people at that time. Fact is when I talked to Tom he wanted to know how I knew about them. He said bigger valves were the only difference, if the GN1 had been race ported. Is this True or did I forget something?

I am sure glad to see the activity on this new addition to the board since it was added.
 
"I also had problems with my GN heads cracking twice. Both times I was running 21 lbs. boost,EGT 1575,118 Unocal. The
first time it occured at approx 126 mph and I almost lost the car into the guard rail ( using Evans coolant ) and after
welding which took 5 weeks, they cracked again! Now another 6 weeks have gone by and I still do not have the
replacement heads ( my orginal heads were scraped out and I am out $1000 porting. By the way Morgan engineering got
the heads to flow 248.4 intake and 223.1 exhaust @.500. 28 inches water) I called Champion and either I get different
stories concerning shippment or Tom will call me back which has never happened in over 35 times that it was promised.
Needless to say I have had better years. I have found that in my business that honesty goes a long way. I am tired of
hearing that cracking is the exception not the norm or my heads are in the mail and you can hold your resverations for
Buicks at Vegas on Nov.10. or I am finishing up some projects and will call you back!"
Jeff

Jeff,

I know what your going through. I've been there myself with all the bull.
The only thing I can say is the heads seem to be holding up well since the repair.
 
Re: GN 1Rzzz

Originally posted by Chuck Leeper
Art and folks, The "R" heads were not available til just recently, from what I know anyway.
(snip)
The "R" heads have alot more "meat" in the lower area and I've heard no reports of cracking. CAL???

They made a few sets (8 if my memory is correct) of "R" heads on the initial casting runs. At the time they were more of an "experiment" then a product.

My new heads haven't had any problems with cracking. Nor did my first set after I had them welded up.

I would have told you about the bigger valves, Chuck, if I would have known you were getting a set.
 
Cal, What did you pay for your GN1Rs? If you dont mind answering. also what would be the largest valves one could run in a set and still be safe with a standard 3.80" bore in a stage block? and there is no problem with them installing the correct springs for the buyers Roller Cam?
You guys that have both the old castings and the new castings is the added BEEF clearly present even to the untrained eye?
TIA
 
GN-1 R's

Originally posted by LikeMy6
Cal, What did you pay for your GN1Rs?

The GN-1 R's are roughly the same price as standard GN-1's

Originally posted by LikeMy6
If you dont mind answering. also what would be the largest valves one could run in a set and still be safe with a standard 3.80" bore in a stage block?

Don't even bother buying them. The standard GN-1's will get the job done on a 3.8 bore motor. Champion only makes a few sets of "R" heads. I would hate to see them bought up by people who can't use them. If the bigger valves in the "R" heads would even clear the 3.8 bore, they would probably flow less then a standard GN-1 head, due to the cylinder wall shrouding the valve

Originally posted by LikeMy6
and there is no problem with them installing the correct springs for the buyers Roller Cam?

Not at all, I don't know who you guys are buying your heads from, but I order EVERY head to my customers specific need. Because they already have the heads and just need to assemble them, they can usually get them out quickly. THIS IS NOT A SLAM ON ANY VENDOR!!

Originally posted by LikeMy6
You guys that have both the old castings and the new castings is the added BEEF clearly present even to the untrained eye?
TIA

Yes, Especially around the outer bolt holes.

The GN-1 R's run about the same price as the regular GN-1's.
 
I appreciate the reply Cal.:) I see that the R head is just equipped with a larger valve selection over the standard GN1s and that both sets can be customized to the buyers needs in spring selection. Thanks:cool:
 
Hey guys,
I had another question when using the 14 bolt heads on a 3.80" bore stage block whats a good head gasket to use and where can I find a pair?
TIA
 
>You guys that have both the old castings and the new castings is the added BEEF clearly present even to the untrained eye?

Here's the beef :) See attached.
 

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thats my head

Mine look just like that , I don"t know what old castings look like . What beef are you talking about ? Someone please post a pic of the old castings so we can compare the beef to soy ratio
Thanks JEFF
 
I have a High Tech Magazine before they became GM-HighTech that first broke the story on the GN1s you can clearly see the added BEEF in the outer bolt hole area when comparing to the pics TurboTR posted the old heads show more machining in the bolt hole area,new heads have a more cast appearance along w/t the rib coming around the outside of the hole opposite the exhaust port. they also look to be about 1/8"-1/4" thicker all the way up to the plug holes.You cant even see the threads for the plugs in the pic TurboTR posted.I also see the inner bolt holes have more MEAT between them and the outer edge of the head.
"THICKER IS BETTER":D Not WIDER;)
Hey guys would there be any problem running ATRs stainless headers on these heads without any gaskets? Im not using any gaskets now but I have the stock Iron heads,will I run into any electrolosis from the dissimular metals on the GN1s and should I use the copper gaskets or not?
TIA
FT
 
Cal,
I live in Lakeland,also whats the difference between felpro 1026&1400?
Where abouts is Melborne is that far from Orlando?
Thanks
Frank
 
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