Given all the blow-by, I made my own flavor PCV catchcan

VadersV6

Active Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2004
I needed something heavy duty that actually condenses all the vapor I can possibly get, and flows alot of air....given that I have major blowby thanks to bad rings. The car runs like crap and is getting 8 degrees of KR at half throttle at 15psi. Like mcasteel's setup, I used a propane tank, but thats the extent of the similarity. I chopped a full size propane tank down, removed the valves and used some neoprene hose, a big Y-fitting, some 1/8" NPT fittings and threaded tubes, a big bronze scrubbing sponge and assembled everything. Most catchcans just have vapor running through, and collect oil on the inner walls and hope it fully condenses and traps everything. I basically want NO vapor making it through. But I dont want a fine mesh filter that will fall apart over time, after being exposed to heat and acidic oil vapor for endless cycles. I had this happen with the one I made a long time ago. Hopefully the cheesy drawings I made and took pics of, are visible enough to read. I also bought a new passenger side valve cover grommet, an elbow made for the same grommet, and a long length of hose that squeezes between the oil filter and IC bracket and dumps straight down. I may get a filter vented oil vapor canister from Jegs to handle that end when I get into boost and the PCV system is no longer handling the oil vapor....So I'm going to have 2 catchcans for 2 different purposes. Just running a filter on that side results in too much smoke and it stinks too bad to handle when climbing the 4 mile hill on the way to work, and I'm at 2-3psi the whole way up. The custom PCV valve I made is in concept, the same as your typical ball and spring boost controller, and flows the same as a stock PCV...I know this because my BLM's didnt change at all with it. Ive played with other homemade PCV valves, and if they flowed too much or too little, my BLM's would change alot. This "ball valve PCV" has absolutely no backflow. It seals tight under boost. Even the best PCV valves have backflow issues. The vacuum signal at the drivers side valve cover is insane. It feels like a vacuum cleaner. Running the PCV from the drivers side valve cover, from the elevated position of the breather tower (which I machined an aluminum, o-ringed plug for ((pops right into the tower instead of a breather filter)) and tapped the end, and installed a 1/4NPT right angle fitting, to hose, to the check ball PCV, to the vapor collector, to the vacuum block), sucks no actual oil like it does from under the intake manifold (even with a valley pan style gasket, it always sucked oil), and it draws air from the passenger side valve cover vent, all the way through the whole motor...instead of sucking from the valley and drawing through 2 major vacuum leaks (A breather filter on both valve covers).
I'm going to install this can over the weekend and hopefully it can get me back on the road.



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Cool brent,

I went back and modified mine, insted of using a propane tank like for soldering, i used a coleman tank with filter inside on the return.

Of course with 10ft of snow outside, all i can do is peek in garage once a day and dream.. and wait...and wait some more
 
Are you guys seeing red x's and no pics? i saw pics at work but no pics on my laptop at home. It seems to be batching all the oil pretty well. After the head gasket swap/valve job/seals/springs etc...Ive been blowing alot of steam out of the tailpipes. Figured the head gasket swap was a total failure. For kicks, I went out and got some K&W nanotechnology coolant leak fix stuff. Its a green bottle. They make a head gasket repair solution for 20 bucks and a coolant system leak solution for 10 bucks. They both use nanoparticles to seal mini cracks and leaks but have different formulas. People use stop leak pellets when doing head gasket swaps so I figured this has to be better. This stuff doesnt require that u drain all the anti-freeze. Its compatible. I noticed while warming the motor up, I had a light steam mist coming out of the fins of the F-body radiator by the upper hose. Apparently a slight leak at an epoxied joint most likely. So anyway, I poured this stuff in and warmed it up. I cranked the idle speed stop screw up to get it to idle at about 1500rpm. After 15 minutes at fast idle, it was still blowing alot of steam out of the tailpipes and was literally leaving a little river of coolant pouring down my driveway from each tailpipe. The steam coming out of the fins was still there too. I started bring the rpms up higher, and kept squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses to pulse the pressure and get air bubbles out of the system. Out of nowhere, the steam abruptly stopped coming out of the tailpipes and from the fins. Like with 10 seconds it went from a cloud to nothing. I let it continue to run for another 5-10 minutes after that. This stuff has a creamy color and consistency. No clumps of walnut shells like that other crap that totally pollutes the coolant system and makes a mess everywhere. Looks like this stuff actually works and works well. I'm curious what the head gasket repair stuff is like..its like an industrial version i guess. But this stuff leaves no nasty mess. It just takes awhile for the nanoparticles to build up, and then BAM, it seals everything. Hopefully between the oil catch and this stuff, it may get me back on the road. I just had to step away from the car for a week and then I found my inspiration coming back.
 
Good, Now look for a block and some stock pistons, rods and crank etc..build it while your frankinsteining your motor to keep it goin then when your read just swap out and wala
 
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