Gen2 causing car to die?

[marleyskater420]

Previously my gen2 did not read the rpm as the connector was not all the way in the plug. I pushed the connector in, and now it reads the rpm, but cuts out every few seconds. So it will read 800rpm, then quickly go to 0, then go back to 800rpm.

Now the car is also idling so rough that it is dying. I don't know if these are related. If I pull the connector out of the gen2, the car idles fine, but I get a code 34. Now when I plugged the gen2, immediately the car idles rough, and dies within a few seconds, and I still get a code 34. Also, the WB when the gen2 is in, will read upwards of 20-21 AFR, when the gen2 is unplugged, it goes down between 13-14.

The blm's with the gen2 unplugged were 109/110 and would randomly jump to 128, but stayed around 109. With the gen2 plugged in, they were 160.

I have the plug n play adapter for the gen2, an LC-1 wideband, and the extender extreme g chip. I don't know if any of that matters. My maf is a 3.5" ls1.

Any suggestions on where to start? I keep pushing the white wire back into the gen2 connector but it still seems to not be connected fully (as it will randomly go to 0). I also don't know why it goes so lean when the gen2 is plugged in and dies, but when its out it runs fine-ish.


edit: forgot to add that when the gen2 is plugged in and the car dies, the WB gauge still is reading the AFR, and will still give numbers as if the car is on.

Also, hooked up a stock MAF and didn't make any difference.

Any ideas?

 

[John Wilde]

Tyler,

I am not sure of what to make of this.
I am sure Eric, Bob or Rick will have great input!

 

[salvageV6]

I'd start to make sure the GEN II is programmed for input and output of the proper MAF, and all the other settings relevant for a 6 cylinder Turbo Buick.

Disable or bypass any anti-theft settings while tuning.

I'd remove the wideband wiring and get the car running properly with the MAF on there it's not needed for idle and around the town driveablility and initial setup.

And I'd make sure I got a powerlogger and logged some data.

And of course I'd email or PM Bob Bailey.

 

[marleyskater420]

I'd start to make sure the GEN II is programmed for input and output of the proper MAF, and all the other settings relevant for a 6 cylinder Turbo Buick.

Disable or bypass any anti-theft settings while tuning.

I'd remove the wideband wiring and get the car running properly with the MAF on there it's not needed for idle and around the town driveablility and initial setup.

And I'd make sure I got a powerlogger and logged some data.

And of course I'd email or PM Bob Bailey.

I unplugged the ecm, went back and redid the configuration on the gen2 as per full throttle's site, and it is not throwing a code anymore.

However, the rpm reading on the gen2 will still "cutout". It will give an rpm reading, then go to 0, then give an rpm reading, then 0, as if the wire is not connected all the way.

I made sure the white wire (rpm wire) on the gen2 was connected, and all the way down (it previously was not) and it is still doing this.

Any solutions you might have for solving the rpm issue?

Thank you.

 

[TurboDave]

If you've had problems with that rpm wire/connector before, that very likely is where your problem still lies. The female part of the connection may not be making good contact, I.E. too large, or not seated well.

About the only other place such a problem could exist would be in your ignition module.

 

[marleyskater420]

If you've had problems with that rpm wire/connector before, that very likely is where your problem still lies. The female part of the connection may not be making good contact, I.E. too large, or not seated well.

About the only other place such a problem could exist would be in your ignition module.

So what can I do to remedy the wire connection?

Should I get another connector, cut off the old one, and wire the new one in?

 

[marleyskater420]

Would like to update this.

I called FullThrottle and Caspers to get some help with the issue. Apparently the prong on the wire terminal are bent and causing the connection to go in and out. I need to bend the prong back and hopefully the terminal will "lock" into place on the plastic connector, and all will be well!

 

[John Wilde]

Updates?

 

[marleyskater420]

Updates?

cut off the connector from the plug n play harness and spliced in the original connector that the gen2 came with.

Rpms still dip to 0 while at idle. However I have a vacuum leak at my egr, and that could be causing the computer to think that the car is dying, and then catch itself and restart, which is why when I rev the engine a bit the rpms give a constant readout, but at idle they will dip to 0 (due to the vacuum leak causing the car to go lean and the ecm thinking the car is going to die)

 

[John Wilde]

cut off the connector from the plug n play harness and spliced in the original connector that the gen2 came with.

Rpms still dip to 0 while at idle. However I have a vacuum leak at my egr, and that could be causing the computer to think that the car is dying, and then catch itself and restart, which is why when I rev the engine a bit the rpms give a constant readout, but at idle they will dip to 0 (due to the vacuum leak causing the car to go lean and the ecm thinking the car is going to die)

Cool, let me know when you get the block off plate on!

 

[TurboBob]

the RPM signal is not required for the engine to run with the Gen-2.

Vacuum leaks will cause tons of issues.

if you have a wideband and the plug-and-play harness, you have to modify the plug-and-play or the wideband voltage gets tied into the stock O2 input on the ECM and wierd things happen.

Try unhooking the wideband from the plug-and-play and see what difference it makes.

B

 

[marleyskater420]

the RPM signal is not required for the engine to run with the Gen-2.

Vacuum leaks will cause tons of issues.

if you have a wideband and the plug-and-play harness, you have to modify the plug-and-play or the wideband voltage gets tied into the stock O2 input on the ECM and wierd things happen.

Try unhooking the wideband from the plug-and-play and see what difference it makes.

B

Thank you for the help.

We cut into the plug n play to make the WB work. I know there were at least two wires we cut from the harness. I will try unplugging the WB today if sealing the vacuum leak does not work.

 

[John Wilde]

Tyler,

Any updates, did you fix the vacuum leak?

 

[marleyskater420]

Tyler,

Any updates, did you fix the vacuum leak?

Vacuum leak is fixed, and just got my EGR plate from Cottons today... last time I order from them. Cost me 13$ in shipping, took over a week, and the box looked like its been to hell and back..