Gathering parts for a forged roller set up

[1986 Buick GX1]

Kind of a waste of time disguising them because 98% people out there don't know what they are anyway.... These cars haven't been made for thirty years, so you think some 20 year old kid in a Honda or a VW is gonna know what a GN is.....doubtful..... You could write it down the sides of the car and they still won't know.... Meanwhile some guy wearing an argyle sweater vest who's name is 'Long Duck Dong' will be blowing by you in his 290hp Nissan Maxima. I gotta say and I'm sure y'all will think I'm an asshole, but, I can't stand the idea of someone wanting to keeping a "stock" appearance for the sake of fooling people.

Although I do agree that even in the '80's and '90's the brand Xers were not quite sure what was stock on the TR's, most TR owners now days either don't know or don't remember what their own cars looked like completely stock, exactly, including me.

I been around long enough to know who to let build and not let build my motor , I already have the machine shop in mind, but thanks. I kind of wanted a "stock" appearing motor ported stock heads and intake . Anyone can notice a pair of aftermarket heads. As for the turbo I'll be sticking with my TA5469 that I have on the car. Have a 3k PTC converter. The whole motto of the car is to be Decieving with my clear coat gone on the deck lids and black bumper fillers in a debadged light blue turbo T.

However, I'm kind of in the same boat. I was reluctant to go away from my old Bowling Green Customs waste gate elbow to a THDP style mostly because of how they looked with the cut out turbo shield. Once I made a different turbo shield I was able to trim it so it looked like it was suppose to be that way, in my mind anyway.
For me, it's not so much that I'm trying to fool people, I just like the way it looks and don't want to deviate too much while improving the looks and performance.
I do get the whole unassuming concept, it is a lot of fun watching them pick their doors up off the side of the road. Lol

 

[Dreamn4GN]

Damn if you want to fool poeple just don't open the hood. If you go for any real power you will need tire's that will hook. Bottom line you ain't fooling nobody but you. Each to there own. Good luck you are going to need it

Why are you're panties in a bunch bro? Like settle down, traction problems are a problem I don't mind having. How am I fooling myself? Bc I think stock ported heads will get me where I wanna be instead of dropping 2k on aluminum heads and waiting 2 years? It isn't about fooling people. It's about doing more with less in a sense. You got any real info you wanna share??? Otherwise beat it

 

[Dreamn4GN]

However, I'm kind of in the same boat. I was reluctant to go away from my old Bowling Green Customs waste gate elbow to a THDP style mostly because of how they looked with the cut out turbo shield. Once I made a different turbo shield I was able to trim it so it looked like it was suppose to be that way, in my mind anyway.
For me, it's not so much that I'm trying to fool people, I just like the way it looks and don't want to deviate too much while improving the looks and performance.
I do get the whole unassuming concept, it is a lot of fun watching them pick their doors up off the side of the road. Lol

For me it's kinda like that, but I see everyone going stroker and throwing aluminum heads on. I'm not denying the aluminum heads gains what so ever. But I don't see justifying them for the power I wanna make with this new short block. If I wanna make the kinda power that justifys aluminum heads, I'm going ls plain and simple. If I wanna go back to stock , I'll have the numbers matching trans and engine to throw back in.

 

[Mr.Spool]

As the title states, I'm gathering parts to get a forged short block built . Goals are for making mid 10 sec power on a conservative tune. I already have a block, forged crank, and forged K1 Rods. Plans are for some forged pistons, roller cam, billet mains, ported stock heads, RRs, stock intake etc etc from heads up.. With all that going on , seem to get sidetracked and not really sure what else I need to get . I need to get the block spec'd and see what size bore it will have, its a std bore block with machine work done and ready to be built, but the cylinders walls have a few small imperfections, so I'm not quite sure what bore its going to be. So until I get the pistons figured out what else can I buy? What kind of bearings should I get? Using stock heads I need 1.55 RR's correct? I was thinking of getting a roller cam set up( not sure what size) from Full throttle with lifters and push rods. Question is, what else do I need for my short block to be built besides the items I mentioned? ANY help is appreciated, I searched around and obviously could not find the exact info need. I got a local turbo buick buddy and he seems to be burnt out of all the questions I have lol. Thanks again.

This thread is very interesting,well for your goal of mid 10s ported irons mild cam and a stock shortblock with the car lightened some,a good tune,set of axles,posi,built trans and converter,set of drag radials with a good driver and your there.

 

[VtheGNMan]

HEY!!! I like my argyle sweater!!! -Long duck Dong.
Not sure what a maxima is though.

 

[Whiskeytango]

Why are you're panties in a bunch bro? Like settle down, traction problems are a problem I don't mind having. How am I fooling myself? Bc I think stock ported heads will get me where I wanna be instead of dropping 2k on aluminum heads and waiting 2 years? It isn't about fooling people. It's about doing more with less in a sense. You got any real info you wanna share??? Otherwise beat it

If you would read the posts correctly you would see that nobody is advising you to use "aluminum heads." Chris Kirk said "Good set of Champion irons properly ported will make nice power without breakin the bank." Might want to work on your reading comprehension skills! As far as your build goes you're wasting your money using a forged rotating assembly with a set of stock ported heads.

Chris Kirk also said "The power is in the heads. More air flow means more power...." Well hate to break it to you but that's true. It's all about air flow. Everybody knows that, umm, except you. Ever read a compressor map for a turbo? You know where it says along the horizontal line Corrected Air Flow (LBS/MIN) Might want to look in to that. There's no power in the rotating assembly. Rotating assemblies don't make power they support power. Stock crank and Stock rods are easily good for 500+ hp.

What rockers you going to use? Stock? HaHaHa....that's a joke. Yeah your gonna make a lot of power with those. But you're gonna have to use stock rockers bc you can't use anything else with stock valve covers. Won't have the clearance. So when you open up your hood of your incognito GN anyone who knows anything about these cars will know right away it's not stock with those tall valve covers. Good luck foolin people with that one. Ahhh, good stuff....

When you say "It isn't about fooling people." Then why did you say this in an earlier post "The whole motto of the car is to be Decieving with my clear coat gone on the deck lids and black bumper fillers in a debadged light blue turbo T." Deceiving is try to fool people? Might want to work on your vocabulary skills their too, sport!

Like another member on this board always says and it's so true. Fast, Good, Cheap. Pick two.

 

[Dreamn4GN]

If you would read the posts correctly you would see that nobody is advising you to use "aluminum heads." Chris Kirk said "Good set of Champion irons properly ported will make nice power without breakin the bank." Might want to work on your reading comprehension skills! As far as your build goes you're wasting your money using a forged rotating assembly with a set of stock ported heads.

Chris Kirk also said "The power is in the heads. More air flow means more power...." Well hate to break it to you but that's true. It's all about air flow. Everybody knows that, umm, except you. Ever read a compressor map for a turbo? You know where it says along the horizontal line Corrected Air Flow (LBS/MIN) Might want to look in to that. There's no power in the rotating assembly. Rotating assemblies don't make power they support power. Stock crank and Stock rods are easily good for 500+ hp.

What rockers you going to use? Stock? HaHaHa....that's a joke. Yeah your gonna make a lot of power with those. But you're gonna have to use stock rockers bc you can't use anything else with stock valve covers. Won't have the clearance. So when you open up your hood of your incognito GN anyone who knows anything about these cars will know right away it's not stock with those tall valve covers. Good luck foolin people with that one. Ahhh, good stuff....

When you say "It isn't about fooling people." Then why did you say this in an earlier post "The whole motto of the car is to be Decieving with my clear coat gone on the deck lids and black bumper fillers in a debadged light blue turbo T." Deceiving is try to fool people? Might want to work on your vocabulary skills their too, sport!

Like another member on this board always says and it's so true. Fast, Good, Cheap. Pick two.

Thanks man. You been so helpful. when you get forged parts for dirt cheap I guess I should just say no and use old shit. I know heads are where the power comes. I just figured I could get to where I wanted to be without dumping a lot into the heads besides port work. I don't claim to know it all like some. You purposely went out of you're way to take jabs at me , regardless of my vocabulary or my comprehension skills. you could have easily given me some solid info without being a dick. Maybe you should work on you're vocabulary and learn how to talk to people without insulting them right away. But I hope you had a great holiday regardless.

 

[Wahoo]

I'm in the same boat, I want to go forged to just make the rotating assembly ready for anything!

Heads maybe next year for me (2018)

 

[Whiskeytango]

Thanks man. You been so helpful. when you get forged parts for dirt cheap I guess I should just say no and use old shit. I know heads are where the power comes. I just figured I could get to where I wanted to be without dumping a lot into the heads besides port work. I don't claim to know it all like some. You purposely went out of you're way to take jabs at me , regardless of my vocabulary or my comprehension skills. you could have easily given me some solid info without being a dick. Maybe you should work on you're vocabulary and learn how to talk to people without insulting them right away. But I hope you had a great holiday regardless.

"I been around long enough to know who to let build and not let build my motor" "Why are you're panties in a bunch bro?" "Otherwise beat it" Sound familiar. You live by the sword, then you die by the sword! You kinda sound like a dick in some of your responses when people are just trying to help you.

It seems by what I've read when people give you advise that you may not agree with or like you get a tad bit defensive. We're all friends here. People just trying to help other people out with their past experiences and knowledge.

Whenever I hear "dirt cheap" then there's a reason for it and it's usually not a good one. There's got to be something wrong with it, or it wouldn't be dirt cheap. Fast, Good, and Cheap. Pick two.

If your short block is in good shape then put the money into the heads, cam, turbo, convertor, tranny, tires, and tune. Do you have a posi rear? You're better off with a posi rear and good axles then a forged crank and rods for your goals and power level.

ITSAV6 says "Exactly, build it how you want it. You are correct, aluminum heads are not needed for your goal." That's true, they're not. But neither is a forged bottom end.

Regardless of what you got the forged parts for, you don't need them to run 10's. Think about what the machine work for your block will cost, then rings and pistons will be another $1k. Cam and rockers..... You'll spend $1k to $1500 porting stock heads and port matching the intake.

From what I've read and researched over the years most 109 shortblock builds with forged internals usually cost about $5k to do. Give or take depending on the parts and where you got them.

Mr. Spool has the right idea. That's good advice. And people have taken stock short blocks into the 9's.

Save the extra block and do it right over time.

 

[Dreamn4GN]

trans is built, converter is good. posi rear, drag radials. my plan was to build for something more than what i needed.. I guess some things get lost in the mix of things. Everyones experience is what has my car still running. Far as I know it is stock, i do have paperwork that had the HG's replaced in 2010. In the end I guess I wanted to do it once and do it right. hence why I'm going forged. but as of now its all on hold. But When it does come time. I will be going with champion ported irons. Im not going to want to take the heads off after they are already on and sealed and etc. I dont take anything to heart on here. But sometimes hard to get the idea through a text. but I do appreciate the feedback from everyone. Im just gonna let this stock set up ride for long as it can take it. Slowly grab parts for a rebuild i assume. But the major purchases, like cam , heads and etc are going to be put on hold. Because I honestly dont know what the heck I wanna do. thanks again for everyone chiming in..