gas tank leak where neck meets tank

[ez at nova]

After I filled the tank to the brim the other day, the next morning I noticed a gas smell in the garage. There was no wetness on the floor and it didn't smell in the engine bay, but the first place I looked was undernear the tank in the back and it was all wet where the neck meets the tank. I can't see a specific hole where it is leaking so I'm thinking is is more or less seaping out around that joint. Is this a common problem with an easy fix? (The EASIEST fix would be to not fill up the tank so it's all the way full, but that's not the RIGHT way) Or, should I suck it up and look for a new tank.

On the topic of new tanks. Can anyone provide insight to these that I found?

http://www.inlinetube.com/Gas Tanks/Buick/BGM307A.htm

and

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...tem=7915055231&category=33556&sspagename=WDVW

One says 17 gallons and the other says 21! They both say TR specific though, which I know is important. Is there any other parts I'd need besides that tank with the neck and new seal for the sending unit? I imagine the tank swap wouldn't be that hard, right? As simple as draining it, loosening the straps, and out it comes?

On a related note, my gas guage has always been quite innacurate (when you fill it, it goes past the F so far you can't see the needle, or I've run out of gas when it say 1/4 full, etc). Would it be worth replacing the sending unit while I'm in there? I checked the plug on the back of teh dash and it looks fine.

Thanks!
Jeff

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Had the same problem with my GN shortly after I got it with 4700 miles on it. Put some JB weld around the neck where it connects to the tank and it has been fine ever since, 8 years later.

 

[tom h]

I had the same type of leak at 4500 miles. Tried some kind of epoxy putty (not JB Weld) and it did not seal. Finally I just bought a brand new GM tank for about $220. This was some years ago, maybe the epoxies have improved, it's worth a try.

 

[turbo nasty]

Just sealed up this exact problem on my 86. Get the JB Weld epoxy puddy stick, trick is to hit the area real good with a wire brush and then afterwards clean the area with rubbing alcohol and let dry. Then cut off a piece of the stick and knead it together and apply to the seam and walla give it a few hours to dry and it will be stronger than the tank. I have used this in rusted through holes in the bottom of tanks and it has held up with no problem and it is constantly in contact with the fuel.

 

[strikeeagle]

The most popular (?) replacement fuel tanks are made by American Designers/Spectra Premium Industries, Inc.

The TR tank is a 307C. It has a "pie pan" baffle, and costs about $200. The non-TR Regal tank is a 307A, and is about $150.

The 307C comes with filler neck installed, plus a replacement locking ring and o-ring.

Dropping the old tank and replacing it with a new tank is not a big job. It can be done in the driveway by one guy with some pain, but it's best to have a buddy available, and doing it on a lift makes it even easier.

Last I knew, new straps were available from GM for somewhere between $5 and $10 each. These straps are also available from the aftermarket.

A couple of tips on the install. One, be careful not to damage your rear fillers when you're positioning the tank neck. That's one of the reasons why it's best to have a buddy handy. Two, clean the rubber tank insulators carefully with soap and water. Check the staples that hold the velcro in place and repair or replace as necessary. Once the insulators are clean I like to spray them with WD-40 so everything moves freely when you go to put the tank back up - it really helps everything go back into place - otherwise you'll have a war on your hands.

Good luck!

 

[gofstbuick]

Most radiator shops can solder the the neck back onto the tank. Had that done on my Chevelle (about 2 years ago) and it cost around $45.