G body parts upper control arms

84SFIGN

Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2009
At some point, I've read on line that the G body.com tubular upper control arms that sell for around $150 will "bend like a pretzel"....Anyone here have them that can comment on quality issues? I like the simple, light weight design.
 
I have the uppers from Brian and have put several thousand miles with no "Bending" You do need 2 pass sides tho or the alignment wont jive.
 
I have the uppers from Brian and have put several thousand miles with no "Bending" You do need 2 pass sides tho or the alignment wont jive.
Can you please elaborate? Why would I need (2) passenger side A arms instead of the LH and RH parts that are available and supposedly engineered to fit a G body regal correctly?
 
Call and find out if one is longer......pass side vs driver...I ordered mine when they first came out and not sure whats up now.
Believe its 8.5" drivers side and 8.0 for pass....if thats the case, you will need 2 pass for correct camber. Thats what I had to do
 
No they have always been the same length. A long tme ago they had sent us about 10 that were incorrect. But that was awhile ago. I have about 40 sets on the shelf & sold 2 sets today. They are our best sellers.
 
Thanks for clearing that up Brian, and for carrying good stuff at a good price. I will def be hitting you up for a set soon.
 
No they have always been the same length. A long tme ago they had sent us about 10 that were incorrect. But that was awhile ago. I have about 40 sets on the shelf & sold 2 sets today. They are our best sellers.

Cool...It was quite a while back and guess who got one of the originals...LOL
Being that mine were old....Reason I said call just to make sure
 
I'm sorry if you got one of those long ones. When we order 50 sets they thought we were kidding & sent 5 sets. Then they quick shipped 45 more sets. Sorry for the inconvenience ;)
I still would like to see what was left of the vehicle that folded one up. I only had to replace 1 so far from an accident. It wasn't bent up just being safe.
 
Alot of circle dirt tracks all across the country runna street stock class that uses metric car frames & some allow aftermart, upper A-arm so they run the ? on right frt & ? + on the
on the left. This of course, to help them handle in the corner. Speedway Motors have these everyday for about 50.00 ea, plus B-joint. I'm not sayn that the ones mentioned in the above post are that, but I am sayna they will work. They come in many variation, adjustable or not, mopar b-j or Gm b-j. If you've been to cirle track, the upper arm are plenty tough. Yes I have them, with B-body spindles & brakes. They also have a rear brake kit to put disc on the rear,( waitn on warmer weather & time) the research is on this board. You can also see them run on IMCA, Usmts Modifeds, Sport Mods & others.
 
CAN I DO THIS AND NOT BEND EM?
Cause Im getting ready to install them
And when you do I will post a video up of you doing that on our site stating these arms are BOB SLUSSER PROOF!

Long point short. The curved arms are needed with out the drive trane in the car. No weight going down the assembly line. Point A-B is the same when you have an engine in the car. Now when you pull your car up there will be no weight on the front end. The a-arms will come down close to the frame & can touch. It is not a slaming of a ton of weight where any thing will bend. The back half of the arms may come in contact. This will not cause any damage.
If you are the least bit worried about this we do carry these:
http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1168&osCsid=b9714945b6ccbbd5cf8f720c2e54632a
We first had these built with Bump stop we never sold 1 because of cost.
If you look at the above units they also are not curved.
 
The only time I tweaked one of Brian's A-arms was when the 4 bolts holding the ball joint mysteriously disappeared and the ball joint was forced upward away from the arm while the a arm rested on top of the spindle, all while driving on the freeway. It bent the ball joint mount pad pretty good and made my car lean to the left. I was able to get a replacement Gbodyparts a arm from another board member and all has been good since.

Now, by NO means was this Gbodyparts.com's fault (I was the one that installed the ball joint), nor was it a strength or design flaw. I drive my car a lot on the street nearly everyday and have never had any problems with them under normal use....I wouldn't hesitate to buy another pair.
 
Trust me as well as Brian on this guys. These arms don't bend easily. Some of the guys in the DFW area use the same ones. Brian posted who he gets them from and I've seen the same arm get hammered on the dirt tracks here. You can bend them but it usually takes a really hard hit into a wall..

One other thing I can add on ball joint position. You were very lucky on the bolts coming out Rod. Most of these get the ball joint mounted on the bottom to help with the camber curve, not in the stock manor.:)
 
Charlie that is correct you mount it under the a-arm.

Rodney the nuts on the ball joint if you bought them from us are locking nuts. Usually with plastic in them. Sorry to hear what happened.

GT CHARLEY when you talk to speedway ask what the heat rating is on the center shaft support bushing. The reason we started doing these was due to our cars burning up the passenger rear upper a-arm bushings every few years. Ours can handle the extreme heat with out failure. We had no intentions of selling these for other Gbody's or S-10's it was just for turbo cars. It started to take off when others seen them. This is why we sell so many.
 
The a-arms will come down close to the frame & can touch. It is not a slaming of a ton of weight where any thing will bend. The back half of the arms may come in contact. This will not cause any damage.

So to summarize...without the bump stop, the A arm hits the frame but it not an issue. This will happen whenever I have the front wheels off the ground. Also, which ball joints are provided? Does it make sense to use tall ball joints with these arms? If so, where do I get them and who is the manufacturer?

Thanks
 
Charlie even a broken clock is right twice a day ;) Ours you do not have to be replaced.

84SFIGN think about 1 thing. With the cross shaft bump stop what do they land on? Yes from the factory they are rubber as well. We first designed these with adjustable bump stops. Pretty trick piece. They had Bolts going thru the center shaft & you could actually adjust them. Lock them down with a nut & they would stay at that height. At $225 a set they were over priced back then. we came out with out these at $135 a set & couldn't keep them in stock.
So to review even the factory bump stop hits the frame. Bushings can handle 1600* We use Moog ball joints. Also Keep in mind you can get Moog anywhere. They relabel privately for a lot of companies. My neighbor owned a car quest & taught me this.
We buy in huge quantaties to get the best discounts even on ball joints.
If I missed something just ask that is what I am here for.
 
I wouldnt be worry about bending Brians or Speedways upper arms. I believe I've used 6 sets on peoples cars now and have never had any sort of damage.

I would also like to add that although mounting the BJ on the bottom of the upper arm does help with the curve, I NEVER DO IT!!!! It is a major safety concern becuase of instinces as stated above. If you mount them on the bottom and loose your nuts ":D", your car is done! Or yourself and your family for that matter.

If your concerned about the camber curve, order longer BJ's and mount them properly. Otherwise just use standard BJ's and mount them correctly.



OK, I'm done with my safety talk!
 
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