FUSE POPPING AND VOLT LIGHT WONT COME ON

Joined
May 28, 2014
hey guys im new to this forum i just bought a 87 GN thats stock, im having some trouble with 2 things, when i first got the car the battery seemed dead so we jumped it and started up fine but after we would take off the jumper cables the car would die immediately, so we put in a brand new battery and still did the same thing, then a brand new alternator, still same thing, i read somewhere that if your volt light doesnt come on when you open up your ignition that means the alternator wont be charging, so i noticed that my volt light doesnt come on and that none of the lights on the left side of the guage cluster come on at all. but the bulbs are all good, i then realized that fuse 19 (the one for the radio cig lighter interior lights) keeps blowing as soon as you put it in, does this fuse also control the volt light also or am i looking at 2 completely unrelated problems? Any help will be appreciated. All the other fuses in the fuse box are all checked out and good except for 19.
 
When you jumped it, was the negative jumper cable put at the battery or the engine block? If the block, then the negative battery cable is likely bad.

Circuits on the CIG-CLK fuse:

Antenna relay, AC control head, radio capacitor, security indicator, chime module, instrument cluster (digital), radio, cigar lighter, glove box lite, engine compartment lite, footwell courtesy lites, power door locks, dome lights, trunk lites, vanity mirror lites. These circuits used an orange wire for power supply.

The 'volts' light in the dash gets power from the Gauges fuse (20 A).

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
When you jumped it, was the negative jumper cable put at the battery or the engine block? If the block, then the negative battery cable is likely bad.

Circuits on the CIG-CLK fuse:

Antenna relay, AC control head, radio capacitor, security indicator, chime module, instrument cluster (digital), radio, cigar lighter, glove box lite, engine compartment lite, footwell courtesy lites, power door locks, dome lights, trunk lites, vanity mirror lites. These circuits used an orange wire for power supply.

The 'volts' light in the dash gets power from the Gauges fuse (20 A).

RemoveBeforeFlight


Ok i got the fuse popping issue fixed there was a pinched wire for the passenger side vannity mirror, so the fuse number 19 popping issue is fixed, now i still have my VOlt light not coming on and alternator not charging problem. I checked the guages fuse (20A) and the fuse is good but still no VOLT light. I also opened the ignition and checked with the test light the red wire that comes out the alternator and also the brown wire that comes out the connector off the alternaotor and the red wire test light comes on but nothing when the brown wire is checked with the test light.
 
Check the volt bulb in the cluster. It may be brunt out or loose in the socket.

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I would disconnect the main harness connecters and clean all the copper tracks on the back of interment panel with alcohol and q tips won't hurt to clean connectors were the bulbs twist in that's what got my dash lights working


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My guess is the cluster receptacle in the dash cradle is not latched in properly. It's the connector that engages with the flex board behind the speedo cluster. This connector has two tabs to lock it into the cradle, and if one of the two tabs slips out, the connector will become "crooked" and not engage with the flex board.

Also, the bulb sockets are a big problem. Here's some info:
http://www.installationinstructions.com/FYI/alternator_charging_tech.pdf
 
Thanks for the help guys it ended up being the back of the cluster, so volt light came on and alternator started charging now and took it for a spin around the block and ripped up the streets while listeneing to some turbo lover by judas priest
 
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