Front end done but !!!!Susp gurus help

[galoush]

Well the fronts done all new bushings , tie rods , centerlink , spring and shocks . But The cross shafts that came with the PST kit are offset ( My frontend guy said this is done because over time the frame starts top pull in and what not ) However on my car that hasnt happend so now the alignment is off and the Nuts are at the end of the bolt with Max shims and the fronts are still leaning in at the bottom ( Not good ) . So either i go back to the straight shafts which were also maxed on shims and have to go through the labor and cost , or the new plan is to install longer bolt to add more shims to get it right and they cam go down as needed . Does anyone know a PN# for those 4 bolts that hold the upper A arm to the frame . I plan to get one so i can get 4 bolts to match it that will be longer , but id like the stocker as a guide . Has anyone encontered this ? Thanks

 

[wallballs]

This is unrelated to your question. But I have the upper and lower control arms off as well as the front sway bar. Where did you find all the replacemnt bushings? I want to be certain I have all the repalcement parts before I send mine off to the powder coaters? Also, did you replace upper and lower ball joints? If so, did you just take them to a front end shop to have the stockers removed?

Thanks for your help.

Lance

 

[Glen]

I don't know of any longer bolts, hav'nt seen this happen B4. Try rotating the cross shaft 180* and realigning. U R using an alignment machine to verify specs?

 

[galoush]

Wall balls i got the whole frontend rebuild kit from PST i had upper and lower ball joints done with the bushing PST sells a kit that has everything you need , i was going to go with tyhe Poly but last minute switched to stock rubber , I also put a solid steel bushing in the downpipe location so the rubber doesnt burn out . I got that from stockcar parts . Glen The cross shafts say to install that way only printed on it , The guy doing my front end i pretty good and is using the right alignment tools . I think we thought of doing that but there would not be enough adjustment the other way . If i find the stock bolt im guessing that ill be able to find a grade 8 in the same diam. but longer .

 

[turbofish38]

Try GM part number 461854. They look like wheel studs. Specs listed are M12-1.75 X 66.

Eric Fisher

 

[galoush]

Ok thanks

 

[galoush]

Hey Turbofish38 thanks for the PN# it was the one . Thanks

 

[Way2QWK]

What are your alignment settings at. Especially camber. Are you using a alignment machine??

 

[Donald McMullin]

Glen had it correct. Since your stock shafts were "straight shafts which were also maxed on shims", you need to rotate offset shafts 180* assuming you have the offset turned away from the frame/bolt mounting surface.

If you all ready have the offset facing the frame/bolt mounting surface something else has changed during the rebuild.

Pictures would help.

The best alignment for good handling with driver in the car (or weight in driver’s seat to duplicate your weight) for you GN.

Caster: [plus] 2.5* (drivers side) and [plus] 3.0* (passenger side)

Camber: [negative] 0.2* to 0.3*

Toe-In: 0.07” to 0.08”

The stock settings are:

Caster:[plus] 2.8*, +/- 1*, this results in a range of [plus] 1.8* to 3.8*

Camber: [plus] 0.5*, +/- 0.8*, this results in a range of [negative] 0.5* to [plus] 1.3*

Toe-In: 0.1, +/- 0.2*, this results in a range of Toe-In 0.3” to Toe-Out 0.1”


Deep Enough
Donald McMullin

 

[galoush]

Thanks for the replies , i dont know where it ended up but my guy said to bring it back because the alignment is off right now . As far as rotating the shafts , that was considered but would not work my guy Mark has tried that in the past but says it binds up on the frame , i think it would put it too much the other way . I could go back to the staight shafts but then the Labor and $$$ factor are coming into play . So the longer bolt( one inch over stock) idea came up . You guys dont think that will work ?