frame notching

mike

New Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2001
I've searched through it all and still have a few questions. I want to fit 15X10" prostars. Do I have to do anything else to fit these besides notching the frame? Like, do I have to mini-tub it? Thanks for your help.
 
Speak of the devil,thats what i was up to tonight!
With a 15x10 rim/4.5 back space and M/T 28x10.5 slick i was rubbing a bit on the inside,mostly when turning the car.
You do not need to mini tub!
If you plan on running a smaller tire then i am, i would'nt worry about notching at all.

Mike.
 
Notching the frame is not nessesary. My Dad has 15 x 10" rims on his T-type with 275 50 15 BF goodrich radials. The foot print is wide as hell from behind the car. I am not sure of the backspacing but the tire has never touched the frame of the car, even taking quick turns.
 
Right now I have a 15X8 with a 275/50 and there is not a lot of room left. Since I want to go to a 325/50 I wasn't sure how it would fit. Thanks a lot guys.
 
Well iam running 15x8 with 4.5" backspacing on my weld prostars with 275x50x15 bf goodrich drag radials and i couldn't even drive the car thats how bad they were touching i had to install 1/4 inch whell spacers in order for the to be no more rubbing and still on turns i rub slightly, any tricks would be appreciated
 
Originally posted by BigChinooks
Speak of the devil,thats what i was up to tonight!
With a 15x10 rim/4.5 back space and M/T 28x10.5 slick i was rubbing a bit on the inside,mostly when turning the car.
You do not need to mini tub!
If you plan on running a smaller tire then i am, i would'nt worry about notching at all.

Mike.
BigChinooks, how close is the tire to the inner fender well lip? When you launch the car will it rub out there? Is the tire closer to the frame than the fender lip or is the gap about the same? Thanks.


Originally posted by JoeNational
Well iam running 15x8 with 4.5" backspacing on my weld prostars with 275x50x15 bf goodrich drag radials and i couldn't even drive the car thats how bad they were touching i had to install 1/4 inch whell spacers in order for the to be no more rubbing and still on turns i rub slightly, any tricks would be appreciated
JoeNational, you have the wrong backspacing for a 15x8. You should have 3.5" of backspace, not 4.5". The rim is 1" closer to the frame than it should be. Thats why it rubs.
 
Mike: Did you ever go to the 325/50/15 drag radial? I'm interested in that same size and aren't sure if they'll fit under the fenders (13" section width on a 10" rim).

Please let me know.

-Banning.
 
Hey BigChinooks, post some pics of your progress. Are you going back to the seam? Or how much are you taking out? Are you reusing the pice you cut out, sliding it back into the frame? I am goin to do this soon, but not looking forward to it with a cutoff wheel.
 
FYI, I did my frame notch before the Nats.

I went back to the seam on the frame and did NOT reuse the soft stock frame material. I used 3/16" steel instead.

I welded the new metal INSIDE the cut frame section (not over top of it), which allowed me to run a 15x10" wheel with 5" backspacing and 28x10.5x15 MT ET Drags with a solid 1/2" clearance between sidewall and (new) framerail.

Here are pics:
(Note: copy and past the URLS below BUT replace the "!" in the URL with an "i")

turbobu!cks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6906

turbobu!cks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6907

turbobu!cks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6908

turbobu!cks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6909


Hope that helps.
-Banning.
 
awesome pics

Great pics J Banning and thanks....does this weaken the frame in any way?.........................................thanks Bob
 
My frame has been notched for several years without a problem, until the transbrake. Now when the car leaves with both front tires in the air a huge dent appears on the drivers side rear quarter behind the rear wheel. When at Bowling Green this year I saw this dent in a couple cars (mine goes away after the launch) I spoke with these guys they did'nt have a solution, I even spoke to Lawrence Conley who's customer was one of these cars (burgondy T-type pitted on the end) no solid answers??
Here's what i've figured, you significantly weaken the frame when you notch it, and at a point where you actully need it to be stronger ( between the rear wheels) where all the weight of the car is when you launch . I have never seen an unmodified frame car bend the panel, even on the back bumper. IMO the solution to the body bending is a serious 10 point cage, my car has t-tops and I drive it so thats out. Ask yourself if you really need that big of a tire to warrant weakening your car. I just wanted a cleaner look with the tire tucked inside the wheel well, and no more rubber all over the car after a burnout, but now at the cost of possibly cracking my quarter panel and twisting who knows what else, I dont know that it was worth it.
 
Thanks GoFast

i am not that fast right now but i am getting there and don't want to do anything to the car that might weaken the frame. i wish they would have used a better steel for the frame on these cars from the factory:( .................................................Bob
 
I'm interested in hearing what other have to say on what GO FAST has mentioned about weakening the frame by notching it.

I'm planning on doing this to my GN because of a new set of rims and tires (15 x 10 Welds with a 5.5" BS the slicks are 28 x 10 M/T).
 
I used 3/16" steel to replace what I cut out. It was much stronger (and heavier :( ) than the soft stock frame material.
 
Originally posted by J Banning
I used 3/16" steel to replace what I cut out. It was much stronger (and heavier :( ) than the soft stock frame material.

I seem the pics you provided. Don't seem like too much to really weaken the frame for future problems? Yes?
 
I don't think so.

The only problem is that the metal I used was strong as sh!t and took a while to cut and fit. A plasma cutter would be the way to go for sure!
 
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