Found a few problems...

Bigjsn250

ZR1, 87GN and 86 T Type, life is good
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
So the last few weeks I have noticed the AFR's creeping up. I started watching the fuel pressure and noticed it was no longer going up 1:1. I pulled the Reg apart and noticed some small cracks in the diaphragm. A quick check of Accufabs site and 30 bucks later new diaphragm is put in and I notice the fuel pressure was set way high (due to bad diaphragm) Put FP back where it's supposed to be, still not boosting 1:1.
I pull the fuel tank last night and find the two wires in the tank right before the connection to the fuel pump are melted together. The fuel line that is in between the pump and hard line is like a sponge (wrong type of line used) So I'll be calling and ordering a new set up from racetronix in a bit.
So then I go to the front of the car and notice the Alky pump is leaking. So I pull the pump and find it is engraved on the end 9/29/09, hmmm may be time for a rebuild. Needless to say I'll be calling Julio in a bit also.
Moral: Wideband's are worth their weight in gold and watch your gauges!
 

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Wow that ground wire is fried big time.......

I highly recommend running a heavy one from the battery to the pump. There is the reason why.
 
That black wire is getting hot under load because its not grounded properly. The factory wiring is weak at best on cars built 26 years ago.

Since you have it all apart anyways, now is the time to fix it. Run a heavy ground wire from the negative terminal on the battery right to the pump. That will solve that issue.

The gauge of the wire that is in the picture is good but I would go up one size in thickness and run in it right into that connector. Pull the ground wire out of the connector from the pump and you can solder on the new connector in the Racetronix kit.

The Racetronix kit is a good set up but it hooks into the stock harness and that is where the problems lie with grounds in Buicks. Its not that Racetronix makes an ill engineered kit, they dont, its about the car.

We drive the hell out of a single pump to supply the fuel needed in these cars so the wiring is that much more important.

Hope this helps.
 
Wires and terminals get hot b/c they have too much resistance. In this case the terminal platting was galled which increased its resistance which in turn generated heat which was transferred up the wire. It would be best to replace the sender with one of our new SS units that have dual 14-amp circuits and redundant grounding. Your factory sender is shot. Use our 10-gauge HD hotwire harness that has redundant chassis and tank grounds. If you have a multimeter, you can check the ground to the tank by placing one wire on the negative battery terminal and one on the tank. There should be less than apx. 50mV (0.050V) potential difference when your pump is running. As added insurance, you can upgrade the battery to frame ground (Racetronix BGK-24). Make sure the negative battery cable running to your block, your positive alternator wire and intake grounds are in good condition. If you have grounding issues, it will show up on your multimeter. The cross-sectional area of the frame and body are more than adequate to carry the small amount of current required to power devices such as your fuel pump assuming the interface points (listed above) connected to them are in good condition. Running dedicated ground wires to each device is putting the cart before the horse and does not address key grounding problems should they exist.
 
I ordered this earlier today. So all I need to add is BGK-24, correct? : FPS-G7RXP340M - G7 Stainless Fuel Pump Sender w/ 340LPH Pump
 
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