forward clutch housing and direct clutch drum

dyermullet

Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2003
I am performing a mostly stock rebuild on my BRF 2004r. I am trying to minimize the billet parts and the expense.

I need some advice if this is too much wear on the forward clutch housing


My direct clutch drum has wear on the ID from the sealing rings and needs to be replaced.

Where is a good place to get both of these items? Can I just get these from my local trans supply house or will they be junk?
 
Forward clutch housing should an easy find..ebay...parts houses...if you want to reuse besure the clutches slide freely over those marks. Good drums are hard to find though.
 
Forward clutch housing should an easy find..ebay...parts houses...if you want to reuse besure the clutches slide freely over those marks. Good drums are hard to find though.
Th e marks on the forward clutch are worse than they look in the picture. I could try to clean up but I would rather replace.

How do I identify a good direct drum? Is there a certain brand to look for?

Thanks
 
Id head on over to shepherd, or east mount Houston and hit some of those yards. It has been a while but they used to have Cadillac 2004r s on the shelf. If you just Need parts these were probably the least abused. And for what you can pick up a core and have a bunch of parts you will have spent for just the drum and forward housing . If neither of those have anything I had good luck with a yard out past Dayton near the river on the way into Liberty on 90.

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less than 10% of the drums I see from parts depots are usable in a high performance build. Most would be fine in a 160hp station wagon. Here's what I want to see to help you sort through drums:
-surface smooth and true with 6.160" the absolute minimum o.d. Preferably 6.175-6.180".
-less than .002" runout on the o.d.
-sealing ring bore less than .001 runout and no wear marks at all. If you can feel it it's unacceptable.
-the engagement slots need to be repaired and should be stock dimension. The sun shell should slide in and not have much backlash at all
-the drum must air test properly when installed on the center support with minimal leakage. Sealing ring bore has to be perfect
-the results you will get as far as how much power the directs will support and how long it will last at a given power level is very much dependent on the direct oil sealing. Check everything
67a56c9a8495fb8911d6b4a89618f57b.jpg



BPE2013@hotmail.com
 
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Any suggestion on where I can purchase a good drum? I am held up on assembly by this part. I don't even see them on the normal vendors websites.
 
No doubt, as even the local pdq that deals in used parts requires a close inspection or you end up with junk. Unfortunately even the new stuff when new wasn't qc 'd very well. Just like engine parts, the production stuff is just that.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
No doubt, as even the local pdq that deals in used parts requires a close inspection or you end up with junk. Unfortunately even the new stuff when new wasn't qc 'd very well. Just like engine parts, the production stuff is just that.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Exactly. Still people think that new means good. No matter what it is I want to find out anything wrong with it before I put it into service. Here's what the bore should look like:
63c8bb6878d41b8f263752ba8a3dd3da.jpg




BPE2013@hotmail.com
 
What is the max-min dimension for the ID. I see you said no more taper than 1 thou .

I haven't checked the manual yet it may be in there. I purchased a reman from a local respected builder. I want to check it, and also want to measure my old one. My used one should be salvageable. If so I will keep it around for the future.
 
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