Flat tappet cam breakin

The best break-in procedure for a cam these days is to buy a roller and forget about it after the install. But I do understand budgets; that's why my car is sleeping until I can re-do it the right way.
 
guys i think steve intended the break in procedure for guys that want to run flat tappet cams, not to debate weather it should be done or not.as many can see there are guys that like them and guys that wont touch them.i have run both personally.
 
Yep and if you're on a budget and have only a certain amount of money to spend on your engine then I'm going to run a flat tappet to your roller and spend that money on heads and put the smack down on you the cylinder heads and induction system is where it's all at as far as power in any engine turbo or not and I'm darn sure not saying a roller isn't better but what I am saying is if you're on a budget $150 on a flat tappet cam compared to $1,200 for a roller you just bought yourself a set of heads, and if done properly, its Smackdown time as theroller cam is only going to net you about 15 horse power over a flat tappet yes a little more reliability but only about 15 horsepower on a street engine that is I should reiterate something making big Power definitely roller the streetcar making400 to 500 horsepower no problem
 
Gunzandgearz where do you come up with $1200 for roller and only $150 for flat tappet. I got a custom roller cam for just over $300 however i had the lifters and push rods already.
 
Looking at the full throttle web page the difference between flat tappet and roller is less than $100. ie: flat tappet $235 roller $324. Ta has roller starting at $269.
 
Full throttle has complete roller kit , cam, push rods, springs, retainers etc for $949 Roller lifters are around $400, flat tappet under $10 each.
 
Gunzandgearz where do you come up with $1200 for roller and only $150 for flat tappet. I got a custom roller cam for just over $300 however i had the lifters and push rods already.
I come up with it because when you buy a roller cam you are also going to have to buy new roller lifters new pushrods a lot stiffer Springs and roller rockers add that up and see what you come up with then go look at the cost for a set of hydraulic lifters and hydraulic cam picture will start becoming clear but since you already had the lifters and stuff most people don't have that so that's where the huge difference in cost is
 
Anyone know the guy or gal that broke all the flat tappets in at the factory?

I think I need to buy him/her a beer. :cool:
 
I take the time to post a thread of a video of an actual flat tappet cam breakin and it turns into a debate. Not surprising. I currently have 3 engines in house that will be using flat tappet cams. None will be 9 sec builds and a few won't even have alky.
 
Steve is good and can break the cam in before shipping but what happens if it's not broken in and you drop it in and have a problem with the flat tappet cam. You will pay for the re and re again, most builders rotate the engine to make sure everything is rotating smoothly however that is not holding the throttle for 15 to 20 minutes for breaking in the cam. There is an old saying you pay for what you get, cut corners and it generally
I am not sending and engine out of here with a flat tappet that I don't breakin personally.
 
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